Tricky

Thanks for the diagrams...this helps. but before any of this..I have to ensure piston #1 is tdc..or nothign will work. I can NOT seem to find out how to do this??

I have worked out all of the bugs with a stripped key on the crank, now the task of setting in the timing belt. On my 1992 legacy, how do I find top dead center on piston #1? the timing belt has been removed and the crank has been turned by hand (in order to fix the stripped out key) and all of the pulleys have been turned. How do I go about finding tdc, and any suggestions on making the timing belt installation would be GREATLY appreciated. This site is great, you all are knowledgeable car folks!! thank you. P.

Nomad327 where can I get this quick metal? I have called around and can't find this product, anywhere around the Seattle area. is it still being produced? I have been told about another similar product called, quick steel....is that similar enough to do the job? Thanks, in advance.

appreciate all of your insight, this is a great "blog" of very knowledgeable people!

THe crank pulley bolt, lossened and therefore the key simply was loose and pulley started to spin on the crank itself...almost acting like a drill...grinding out the pulley. I am starting to doubt spot welds, and go with a very clean, precedure, (brake cleaner, locktite, bolt to 140+ ft/lbs) when tight..the pulley and crank run smoothly....so I don't think the crank is out of whack.

Cookie, thanks for the insight...this will be the second crank pulley I have installed, the first time I spun, was pretty bad and left the slot in the crank itself...widened, a hair on each side. new key will fit but it has a small amount of "slop" and I feel I can weld a bead, on the front and rear of the key, then apply locktite to the entire pulley and bolt etc.... I am going to give this a shot...other than pulling the motor and replacing the crank, I really do NOT have many other options...at least in my mind at the moment.

ordered a new pullet and belt drive pulley, they were both rounded out by the bolt loosening and the key moving. the crank itself has been a little bit ground on. but it still holds a key well. I was thinking of spot welding a key in, and tightening the bolt to 150+ ft/.lbs....using a lock washer... any issues, unforseen?

What is the maximum ft lbs, I can torque the crank pulley bolt? I have gone through 2 pulleys soo far, even with cranking it to 130ft lbs, using locktite. maybe using a large Lock washer perhaps? any arguments against this? would it ruin the torque reached on the bolt??? thoughts.

What is the maximum ft lbs, I can torque the crank pulley bolt? I have gone through 2 pulleys soo far, even with cranking it to 130ft lbs, using locktite. maybe using a large Lock washer perhaps? any arguments against this? would it ruin the torque reached on the bolt??? thoughts.

sounds all too similar. However...I have replaced, several other sensors...not inccluding these and still have NO codes, but the car runs horrible....hardly back out of the garage but runs. when parked...

My car is doing the exact same thing, hard starting when its cold, and erattic idle, etc... 1992 legacy. Did this give you any codes, ?

on my 1992 legacy, I have gone through the codes and replaced 02 sensor, purge control solenoid, and TPS(and set it to specs). Now the car runs a little smoother, but is still rough speaking from before my check engine light came on. I have little or NO power from about 1-40 mph. it literally wants to die. once I get past 40 mph, it runs like its brand new. Since this...my exhaust has been a little louder (could cat-converter being bad, create this HUGE decrease in power?) I am literally stumped.....pulled codes again, and it checks out perfect...but I literally can't back out of my driveway. If I get enough runway to get up to speed..the car runs perfect.....after 40 mph or so, as I said before. could the VSS also be causing this...or does it sound strictly exhaust? THoughts....? you guys have been great at helping me, soo far with hte electrical side of things soo far...I appreciate it immensely.!

Heres the scenario. my legacy has run strong until just recently and is extremely hard starting, but when warm...it runs better, but still "loud" knocking and rough. up to half throttle, the car will consistently BOG down...until about half then it accelerates as normal. with the car not running, but the ignition ON. if I depress the throttle, I hear a steady Buzzing, which increases as the throttle increses. It is coming from the back end of the engine, or transmission/transaxle.....I can NOT pinpoint it. I pulled codes, and originally got a bad 02 sensor which I replaced, as well as replacing the purge control solenoid after reading that code. However, I am still receiving the TPS code, #31 to be exact. I have reaplaced it with a junkyard tps..and it is still doing the same thing. Not sure if the tps is the problem now. what are the chances of 2 tps, being bad, from a junkyard, out of a fairly new car. questions, on this whine..or is the tps simply causing this, in a sensor down the line, most likely in the rear of the engine, or trans... any thought?

Do you know of any other ways, to test the tps? using the meter, both on and off hte throttle body, I got the same readings. Both sensors, tested 9k ohms at closed and 1k ohms at fully open. They weren't exact, but very close. However...there was NO smooth change between the ohm readings when turning the sensor from closed to full throttle. I know this is supposed to occur ( example would be similar, to a r/c car speed control....but in reverse movement) this DID NOT occur. Which....for my porposes, tells me both sensors are bad. I wanted to double check if there are ANY other tests I could do, before I spend 250$ on a new one from 1stsubaruparts.com thank you

Thank you all for your input. I apporeciate it a lot. I have tested both tps units, and in all readings, I would not get ANY change in ohm's whether it was full throttle open, or fully closed. THis can only be that both tps are bad, which is hard to believe that a random chance, even the second one I bought from the wrecking yard is also BAD. I am getting power, to the tps, but it seems, taht my poor throttle response and lack of power until the throttle is 3/4 open, is due to the tps being faulty.... any other input....again, these are assumptions on my engine.