mike golin

put the lube gard in the trans only. before you do that , check to see if the yellow power light on the dash goes off when you start the car ,or if it flashes a bunch of times . that is the computer check light for the trans. [like the check engine light for the engine ]. i have replaced a few duty solenoids for the 4wd clutch lately . they fail and the clutch goes to full pressure which chatters like a 4wd truck on dry pavement.

you would be surprised how long a timing belt will last when a water pump locks up! it will slide over that pump untill it melts the belt . make sure the crank sprocket is on the 12 o clock mark [ which puts the pistons at the halfway point of the stroke] , turn the cams to the closed position [ cam turns freely by hand ], then use a cylinder leak tester to pressurize the cylinders to check the valves . I have had a couple of 2.2 L engines break timing belts and not hit any valves. make sure you use a subaru thermostat when you put it back together . have had way too many aftermarket stats fail . the older 1.8 and 2.2 engines didnt have much head gasket trouble [ unlike the 2.5 ] . the 93 didnt have obd-2 which wouldnt have the misfire detection . the crank sensor handles the timing side and the cam sensor handles the injector firing sequence. either one failing will cause a no start.

I would turn the cams to the closed position [ cam can be turned freely - both cams on same side ] and use a cylinder leak tester [or regulated shop air around 100 psi ] and check for leakage into intake or exhaust . it is not easy on a 2.5 DOHC but is the best way to check for bent valves. the water pump is turned by the back side of the timing belt . if the pump seizes it will burn the belt off . with only 130,000 on it ,should be good for a few more years. even if it needs a motor you are looking at around $1500.00 to keep it going .

the oem subie timing belt has white stripes and a dotted stripe which line up with the crank and cam marks. this just makes it quicker . i put white marks on the crank sprocket and the cams [crank sprocket has a mark that lines up with a indent on the crankshaft sensor boss - straight up position. the crank keyway should be at the bottom ]. i use spring clamps to hold the belt on the sprockets which makes it go much easier . the crankshaft bolt is 7/8 inch. make sure you put some blue locktite on the crank bolt and torque it to 130 ft/lbs. On a man trans I have a hook bar that catches the ring gear teeth to hold it . go through the access hole in the bell housing.

the fuse is only for a/t units. the wiring harness is universal . the man trans has a viscous clutch that works by heat when it senses slippage between the front and rear differentials [ when the front spins faster than the rear it creates heat in the clutch which makes it apply ]. the fuse does nothing on a man trans.

I have had good luck adding Lube- Gard ShudderFixx after changing the fluid . it works like the Positraction addative in rear diffs. its cheap and usually does the trick.

the 4 wheel drive has an output shaft which has a slip yoke that turns the driveshaft.the yoke has to be in to prevent major leak.

that is by farr the meanist looking brat on earth! wish subie still made them [ with the STI powertrain - of course ].

you cant get away without using the dust seals up north due to the salt and humidity . the pistons will rust and chew up the seal in no time . i have had good luck with CPI rebuilts and bendix.

i have a 97 outback 2.5 with 140,000 miles on it . sounds like a diesel cold but it runs flawlessly . i think they went a little too far lightening components to gain a little fuel milage .

I would recommend replacing them [about $1,000 job] because it is at the milage that they usually let go. could be a bargaining point if he hasnt bought it yet. subaru is covering gaskets up to 100,000 miles [not sure of time - may be 7 years?] from original date put in service. you would have to check with dealer for specifics to see if it is covered.

the knock sensor is located on the drivers side of the engine block directly below the throttle lever on the intake manifold. use a 12mm socket and a long extension to remove the bolt.