kayakpanic

oh sweet! thanks. I have mostly spent my time south of Moab in the BLM land east of Canyonlands NP, because I am always riding with a dog... I will have to check that out the next time I get down there...have never biked Slickrock yet, maybe this late Fall/early winter... i have seen lots of pics of Lion's Back, and def. seen the video of the lady who crashes her husbands Bronco when the BRAKES FAIL!!!

oh my bad... the gabriel ultras are $70 each for the front the cheapoes of rthe back are $17 each, and the ultras are $40 each... if you plan on having the car a while longer, i still highly recommend buying new ones. nothin says luvin like new shocks! it seriously fells like you are driving a brand new vehicle... put the salvage one on to get you to payday...

what kind of car do you have? if its a gl, dl , or loyale, you can buy brand new shocks for the front for like $35 each from autozone. they are Gabriel and have a lifetime warranty...for that kind of money you will be way happier than just using a salvage shock until it goes on you.

whoa! that raised back area is cool! what is that called/what models have the extra space?

Fairtax4me- thanks for the advice...the more I thought about it last night I was hoping that was the case. That being said, while there is no blue cloud ut the back, there is little splatters all over the back hatch from the oil coming out the pipe. I drive alot of dirt roads, so it looks like speckles all over the back. obviously I am hoping the issue is with the PCV... to explain the oil emmenance: after driving, i will look under the vehicle at the downtubes. there is NO wet spots or oil on the outside of the downtubes. and they smoke...as if the oil is emminating from inside the pipes. I too thought this was not possible. It literally looks like dry ice; smoking. no oil spots or wet spots on the outsides of the pipes. Rooster2- no check oil light has ever appeared. it is the check engine light that was on, that started to intermitently blink for a minute or two. that was the change that occured more frequently aftyer adding the Stop Smoke. Obviously I did no want to add it, but after adding like 8 quarts of oil over 3000 miles, it was a much cheaper quick fix and really considerably reduced the ammount of oil smokage. by this point at least half or more of the oil in the crankcase is 10-40...oh and synthetic blends smell great when the burn...

x8 on wanting to see the Moab pics... also, where is this "baby lion's back" at? what trail? what direction out of Moab?

oh and the valve cover is leaking, possibly the cam seal, and maybe oil pump area as well... basically I am either going to sell as a project, or put some more money into it and patch it up and sell it. if i put more money (other than above said PCV) it would be to do timing belt, timing cover seals, oil pump seals, cam seal, oil pump gasket... the main thing here is that this project is on the back burner:mad: i got a newer engine for my '94 Loyale, that doesn't aggravate my back injuries as bad as the POS '95 Legacy seats, and will basically be doing the same to it: timing belts, tensioners, cam seal, oil pump seals, oil pan gasket. not yet sure if I want to do the timing/seal job on a vehicle I will sell after doing so...especially if i am only able to get the money out of the new parts and not get paid for the labor! BTW the STOP SMOKE, while reluctantly added to the crankcase, did put a huge dent in the ammount of oil that burning off in the downtubes...but also created the blinking of the check engine light. this worries me into thinking that the Stop Smoke messed with the oil pressure... hopefully the PCV solves the oil blowby, i surely am not going to pony up for a ring job on a vehicle I am immediately going to sell.

what kind of difference in MPG with the snorkel? half of me says it would probably get better: colder, ram air, and K&N... half of me says it would get worse: lots more travel distance for the air from atmosphere to EFI components... i think it looks pretty clean under the hood...good job!

a little further explanation: it seems to be leaking from the insides of the pipes and eminating out. there are no wet oil spots on the downtubes. although maybe it is getting more external oil leaked onto it than I thought. also, after driving a few hundred highway miles, there is oil residue on the back liftgate from the oil going through the exhaust. also, according to my dipstick, it is burning oil (leaking into exhaust) because the oil that drips directly onto the ground is not nearly leaking fast enough for how much oil the engine is burning/using... thanks for the PCV pointer, I have not replaced that yet. basically i am trying to get rid of this thing pronto, looking to patch it up. was wondering what a ring job usually costs...

I was wondering what the possible culprits might be in a '95 Legacy, 140K, that is burning ALOT of oil in the downtubes of the exhaust. Literally smoking on the outsides of both downtubes. Put STOP SMOKE into it reluctantly (only about 6 oz.), which slowed it down a bit and now the check engine light periodically blinks for a minute, then goes back to staying on. With a new ox. sensor about 4K ago, the check engine light never came on until about 1000 miles ago. I am assuming that the oil burn-off/leakage probably ruined it and possibly the cats as well., as an exhaust leak reared its head now too... My guess is that it is the piston rings or something, but this is a guess... anyone else had this happen, or have a guess???:-\

the EJ22 also does not have a distributer... numchux-thanks for the tips. i was going to ask where to get a good set of timing components, i was just going to maybe bite the bullet and get Subaru components. which brand of components were the ones that left you stranded? it seem those would be the brand to stay away from... i drive like a grandpa, and was getting 34MPG on an original engine with 245K on it, and a weak clutch and old timing belt. the best I could get out of the EJ22 with a new clutch was 28-29MPG. the whole reason of going back old school is because of personal preferance, and the fact that the EA82 can go into 2WD. and i eventually will go to the DR 5-speed when the single range in the '94 Loyale gives up... I have already done both of the rear brake drums on the '94 Loyale, which i originally thought to be the bearings. i figure that bearings will be the next things to replace probably...might just do them all as perventive before they go. brake replacements are super cheap. i understand the timing belts should be done every 50K, that being said many people are able to get over 100K on a timing belt by the way they drive. gloyale- i don't think that sourcing parts for a loyale will ever be a problem at all. in fact many (most) of the parts are the same ones as the mid-80's GL and DL, so the parts are mostly the same for all of those vehicles. I see no problems with that kind of supply... the '95 Legacy I have is definately getting sold. I like the Loyale styling WAY better; it also does not aggrvate my back injuries nearly as bad at the Legacy. Although the EJ22 does put out quite a bit more horsepower... I am hoping to pay a retired Subaru Master Mechanic to do the swap ( and have him teach me and help him out). Likely he will also be doing the timing tune up as well as clutch job, with my assistance. This is the cheapest way for me to get a car with everthing replaced all at once. also going to do both CV's and entire exhaust system.

i bought a '94 Loyale 4WD with 228,000 on it for $800... it got 34 MPG in 2WD with a fresh oil change... that was when my DD was a '77 FJ40 Landcruiser. By not driving the 40, I saved $800 in 3-4 months when gas was $4.20/gallon... that is until the engine blew at 245,000 last winter because it was -35F for 2 weeks where I was living.:-\ if you are concerned about fuel, I would suggest one of the models where the 2WD/4WD was selectable, that is where the savings is earned...

yeah, but with 60,000 miles on it and grandma owned, the only seal that seems to leak on this diamond in the rough is the cam seal. the guy I am getting it from (grandmas grandson) already did both valve cover gaskets, and all new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. my '94 with 245,000 miles on it leaked some into the exhaust, and some onto the ground, prob timing cover and cam and oil pan, but I only had to add about 1 3/4 quarts per 3000 miles. that seems pretty good to me at that mileage. this POS '95 Legacy is easily going through 3, 4 or more quarts per 2000-3000 miles (only had it for 4000 miles) and it mostly leaking into the exhaust (which smells great esp. the synthetic:slobber:), but some more is leaking out of the cam, timing cover, and oil pan. after considering putting $1000 into a car of marginal known history, I decided to cut my losses (still gotta get rid of it though) and put $1000 into something that will last quite a while longer than the '95... everytime driving any vehicle after blowing the engine, I would see a Loyale or GL or DL it remined me of how I really like the interior set up of my Loyale. No useless ************ in the displays, everything relatively out of the way but accessible... also, I am a vintage Toyota 4x4 guy, so these Subarus hardly leak at all...

Bill- thank you very much for the tips on the timing belt replacement...i have never done one yet and tips like these help with the encouragement and belief in my marginal old school Toyota mechanic skills to get me through it. I am sure your years of experience will help me when I do go to tackle that... the belts are still attached and in running condition, so when you say: "then while everything is attached (Belts) And turn the engine so on the two Cam sprockets one Dot is "Up" and the other is "Down" then when removing the belts do not turn the Crank, or Cams this way the Timing is still set correct and their is no need to retime it.. " can you just grab the belt and move it to the right spot? also I read about some sort of special tool to hold the camshaft from moving wile doing the repair? I am going to get a '87 GL with 60,000 original miles for $600, and swap the motor into my '94 Loyale with a blown motor at 245,000 miles. I am just going to do the belts and cam seals and tensioners and o-rings all at once to hopefully have a sweet ride to last me a good 5+ years without any major issues. oh I am also sick of owning vehicles that puke oils all over, so hopefully this will get me on the right path. 4000 miles ago I got a POS '95 Legacy that is leaking huge ammounts of oil into the exhaust downtubes. i decided to cut my losses with it, and go back old school and hope to get near what I paid for it...it only has 140K on it but the previous owner must have really raged it. The Loyale is much more comfortable inside and the features are easier to use, and i surely don't need those 2 airbags!

its definately a old school body '94 Loyale... maybe I just never saw that there was a distributer there under all of the EFI stuff... since the '94 is not outside my house yet (still sitting at a mechanic) I cant check. it is not an Impreza, sure of that. so by what TheBeastIDrive said, basically, I can take the carb off the '87 and the EFI stuff from the '94 will fit directly onto the intake? (hopefully) also, would it be any easier to do the timing belt and cam seal and all of that with the engine pulled, or in place?