zeke998

1994 Loyale ea82 spfi stumbling. I put a pressure guage in the fuel line to throttle body and am getting 18lbs.psi. It idles fine but pressure does not go higher when throttled up. Dead headed the pump and it shoots to 60 psi. I squeezed the return line from pressure regulator with vise grips to get 23-24 psi and test drove and it runs great. Vacuum to to regulator when checking with a guage at throttle body base is never present. I have 2 extra throtlle bodies and changed the fpr with no difference in symptoms. Could the problem be in the throttle body? Would I be able to re-use the base gasket if I change the throttle body and do they require some sealer?

From a previous post ecu clicking I checked all my grounds and cleaned them and now the click is gone but the car still has a real bad stumble in the 2-3 k rpm range. I'm at a loss because my mother in law was driving it when the clutch failed and since I changed it now it runs like crap. getting a code 34 and cel constantly. Would this be a symtom of the egr or should I look elsewhere? It falls on its face when you throttle heavy under load. Other than the egr what could cause this code and problem. Been searching and does all sube have a ground wire to the pass side intake that I read about but don't have on this one. After my engine pull for clutch job I'm trying to sort if I could have forgot something.

The test connectors are unpluged. The clicking is from relay just above the ecu. What would this relay control? :banghead:The car starts and idles fine just stumbles under load. 2-3 grand on tach. Got new plugs and fuel filter. Don't have a ground to intake on passenger side. Going to check grounds and try coding again tomorrow.

Long story short I pulled engine and changed the clutch. Now I got check engine light and an egr code. The car now stumbles and I hear cycling sound in the ecu. Any ideas? It is a 94 Loyale wagon. Thanks

If by turning flywheel or flexplate the car then starts it's possible you have teeth on flexplate that are bad and binding the starter. If when it happens and you turn the flywheel it then starts as normal remove starter and inspect the teeth on the flexplate. my 2 cents

I had the same issues with my 94 Loyale last summer. I did all the easy and cheap things first but it took a new radiator to fix the problem. and make sure you burp the system. My vote is a new radiator .

I time mine by connecting the green plugs drivers side near firewall.To my knowledge no switch.

Finally got to check this out and the Haynes must be right the wiper switch is a combo type. Now to get switch from parts car as weather permits. Right now I'm enjoying the 4X4 as it's snowing in Ohio and I'm happy with it's performance in the snow.

I have a 94 Loyale wagon and problem with front wipers. They only work on high speed and in conjunction with the washer. According to the haynes manual it does not have the intermitent module. Is the delay system in the main switch on steering column? Searched with no solid answers. Are my wipers true delay type or am I overlooking something? Thanks

The radiator was the problem. Installed new one and now no more cooling problems plus I now have the head test kit for use again in the future if needed. Thanks

Got the test kit and tested twice and the color did not change so I guess my head gaskets are ok. Now time for a new radiator.

Going to get test kit and check hopefully this week. Going to miss my sube and it's milage on my long drive to work but want it ready for winter. Thanks!

Doesn't consume any coolant and hasn't overheated to the point of boiling over. When it gets high on temp guage the overflow gains coolant but after it cools it goes back to radiator. Forgot to mention that it will cool itself when decending a 3 mile hill on my return from work.

I have a 1994 Loyale 1.8 Spfi with a cooling problem. I replaced the water pump with timing belt change about 6000 miles ago. Changed the thermostat and flushed the system along with a new cap. The temps run normal on short trips and around town but when on the highway doing 60 mph it almost gets to the red after about 10 -15miles of this running. Also runs warm when using the a/c . I've burped it and I've changed fan clutch and the electric fan works. After searching I think a new radiator is the answer. What else could I be overlooking? Runs great 30+ mpg.

I have a 94 loyale wagon with a/c and the clutch fan spins free with no resistence even when almost in the red. The electric fan operates properly with the a/c but gets no help from the belt driven fan thus running higher than normal temps. Without air on the temps rise when doing hills. There is no subes in junk yards in my area any ideas on where to find a good used fan clutch ? Is ther a way to hotwire the electric fan till I locate fan clutch? Thanks