TIMBERTIGER

Hey guys, I know I'm digging up an OLD thread here. I'm having the same problem on my 86 BRAT 4spd dual range. One of the output shafts for the front cv axles sprung a leak yesterday and made a nice little river of gear oil down my driveway. When I look up seals be via AutoZones website I find a duralast seal with the part number: 223255 but in the notes it says "rear differential, Subaru R160". I assume that means it's the seal for the rear diff and not the trans? Are they the same? Does anyone have a number for the correct seal that I need? Any help is greatly appreciated!

I appreciate your reply 6 star. I ended up selling the car without finding a solution. I hope you are able to figure yours out eventually. Let us all know if you do!

Inspected the 2 connectors that connect the rear harness in the FWD bed panel on the RH side. The connector was crumbling apart so I took each wire and spliced them individually with no change in symptoms. Inspected all the wiring under the dash and it all looks fine visually. Disconnected the steering column blinker switch and the turn light indicator still lights up with the brake pedal. disconnected the black flasher module and this also did not affect the brake light/turn signal relationship.

I know this thread is from waaaaaaay back in 2017 but did this issue ever get resolved?

I checked all the grounds on the sockets as well as the ground in the right rear panel in the bed. All good.

I am having some odd trouble with my brake light/blinkers/reverse lights and have searched this forum but haven’t found an answer to my exact problem. This is on a 1985 BRAT GL 4spd non-turbo EA81 car. The symptoms are as follows: -Press brake pedal- stop light lamp and RH turn indicator light up solid on dash. The taillights and stoplights do illuminate but the reverse lights do as well with the brake applied. -When I remove the RH tail/stoplight bulb- the conflict goes away and everything works as it should (with the exception of the bulb that was removed) -Also, when I turn on the emergency flashers, nothing happens. No lights on dash or on exterior and no clicking from the flasher module. -Both turn signals function normally when I move the blinker switch to either side (which leads me to believe that the flasher module is good). Could the flasher module still be faulty despite it working properly with the turn signals? Any help is greatly appreciated!

@demo, Wow thanks alot! I'd hate to take the whole carb and your rebuild because I can guarantee I will never use it and I'd rather they go to someone in need. If you are willing to send the inlet tho I would greatly appreciate it!

Does anyone know where I can find a factory fuel inlet for an EA81? Its the Y type with the return. Thanks!

I had the exact same problem. Worn bushings in the distributor as stated above. I couldn't find any worthy avenues for rebuilding so I'm ended up buying a new distributor. Problem solved!

As GD stated; the gasket and adapter plate have proved insufficient at blocking the passage in my experience. I prefer to remove the small coolant line and cap the nipple that feeds it. I remove the nipple from the intake manifold with vise grips simply because I find it more aesthetically pleasing . This has been my method on multiple cars with no failures yet. I also prefer to remove the EGR and install an aftermarket blank off plate. They look very clean. I remove the exhaust line from the passenger side head and install tapered plugs in the head and the intake manifold as well. Good luck!

I'd be interested in a set for sure

Aha. I missed the part about the aftermarket gauge.

How did you run both wires?

Thanks everyone! Trying to track down a part number for a factory sending unit. I'll let y'all know what happens.

Not sure if the FPCU is whats keeping your car from running. I had an 84 BRAT with a bad FPCU (after taking it apart you could see a burnt spot on the circuit board) and i ended up wiring my fuel pump to the back of my alternator for power while the car was running with a pushbutton to ACC power for priming and the car ran great without even having a FPCU installed.