Sangerboy

Just as a follow up, I deleted the code and it has yet to return almost a month later, it may have been a random event but I'll keep watching for it just in case.

That would be a switch, if somebody had more restrictive laws than CA

Gas mileage is still decent (24-29 mpg depending on how much highway driving I do) performance is certainly not what it was when the car was young but it doesn't seem to have degraded to where I feel it is down on power. It doesn't miss and still runs smoothly, I'm most suspicious of an exhaust leak which is what I'll check first. t'll work through these suggestions and see what happens, thanks for all the help

Thank you very much for your reply, I'm going to check for exhaust leaks etc. first. Cleaning the MAF is a good tip, I'll try all the simple things first. Then replace the O2 sensors and then the cats if necessary. I still want it to pass smog out here in California

Hello everyone, my 1995 Legacy Outback (340K miles now ) has thrown the dreaded PO420 code, I noticed that Subaru has discontinued OEM catalytic converters. Is there a replacement OEM part # or will I need to go aftermarket? If I need to go aftermarket, what is a quality company to purchase replacement CC's from? Thanks for you help. I am the original owner of this car, it just keeps running so well, no need to replace it!

Final update, after more thorough checking it turned out to be the fuel pump itself. This was very frustrating as it was the first thing I checked and tested it twice, once in the car and once outside after I had removed it from the tank. I guess it just happened to test positive those times and wouldn't work under a load. This threw me but I finally circled back to the true problem after everything else was checking out OK. Oh well, I learned more about the car and once again have great appreciation of how easy this car is to work on. Took the car out for a 35 mile test drive including a good grade on the freeway and everything is working and running perfectly. Thanks again for everyone's help and input. On our way to 350K

OK everyone, here is an update thanks for all the advice and help to this point. I got some noid lights and determined that the fuel injectors were firing so we do not have a computer or sensor problem. I also got an inline fuel pressure tester and determined that there was 0 fuel pressure. Previously the fuel pump had been pumping fuel (evidently sporadically) but now it will not pump at all. I had also removed the pump and tested it outside of the tank and it functioned normally. There was no power being supplied to the fuel pump when the key was turned on and the engine being cranked (the blue/yellow wire at the connector at the top of the fuel tank). I started tracing at the fuel pump relay, the red wire to the relay was hot under all circumstances (normal) the yellow wire was hot during cranking (normal) and the relay itself tested normal so it would appear I have a wiring issue. There is a wiring loom connector in between the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump harness. My question is where is this connector located in the car and what is the best way to get to it? This is the spot where I would like to test next to try and figure out where the short or problem is. Also where does the fuel pump loom ground to?. Thanks again for any help you can give. Greg

Thank you O., I'll check those things this weekend as during the week my job takes me away from where I keep the car. There were no numbers given on the scanner as no codes had actually been recorded by the system. The MIL "ready" codes are evidently "pending" in the system but the Actron scanner I was using won't give a code # until the system has actually decided to throw the code. Just the words- "Misfire, Fuel & Comp". Thanks again for the leads, Greg

Found my code reader, computer is not throwing any codes but car will still not start. Fuel pressure is good, have spark to the plugs, fuel injectors do not seem to be firing. Am beginning to suspect the ECM. The random, sporadic odd behavior of the tach should be a clue (see previous post). Any thoughts by anyone? Am considering buying a used ECM just to test rather than spending $600 on a new one in case that is not the problem. No codes thrown but scanner did list three MIL "ready's" Misfire, Fuel and Comp. After disconnecting the negative battery terminal and placing a new coil. The car started and ran perfectly for about 10-15 seconds then quit again and no start since then. Will welcome any insights

Thanks for the reply, the engine will not start. I've had the cam position sensor go out once before (about 250K miles ago lol) and it wouldn't start just like now until I replaced it. This time though I noticed symptoms in the tachometer for a bit before it failed to start and run. The tach would randomly fluctuate at times (drop a few hundred rpm and then go back to an accurate reading right away) the engine would not hesitate or miss though and I do not remember that happening to the tach the last time. I'm pretty sure the problem is in the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor, possibly both but I was just curious if one or the other was primarily responsible for sending engine rpm data to the ECU since the tach has occasionally been acting abnormally.

I am the original owner of my '95 Legacy Outback and am coming up on 330K miles. My question is which sensor provides the engine rpm to the ECM so that it then sends the information to tachometer in the gauge cluster. My guess is the crankshaft position sensor but I was just wondering if anyone knew for sure.

My '95 Outback has developed a rattling noise at the front of the AC compressor. My suspicion is the compressor clutch. I cannot complain as I've got 327K on the car and it is the original compressor. I was having some issues with the AC compressor cycling on and off but all that was was an overcharged system. I bought a manifold gauge set from Harbor Freight and checked the pressures. Does anyone sell just a clutch replacement for the compressor. Everything else is working fine except that sometimes the compressor won't engage when the AC button is pushed on the dash. It always seems to engage when the defroster button is pushed though. Any thoughts?

No I had the whole unit out and the cable moves freely, also it is easy to rotate the bell crank the last 10-15 degrees by hand to get the valve to release. I just shortened the existing spring to add more tension and it works fine again but I don't know how long the spring will last with added tension and stretch. I may have to check local junkyards to see. I live in SoCal so rust is not a big issue.

After 314 K miles on my '95 Legacy Outback, my hill holder return spring has gotten weak and will not return the crank pulley far enough to release the valve at times. i checked with the dealer but they want a couple hundred dollars for a whole new hill holder assembly, but all it really needs is a new spring. I've considered going to the hardware store finding something comparable and making my own but would like to get a Subaru spring if possible. Any body have a source for just the spring?

That's it, perfect!! Part #6 on the diagram. Labeled simply as "plug", part #807045040. Thank you very much for your help. I'll go by my local dealer and get it ordered. Considering that it has been on the car for 17 years and 302,000 miles, I suppose it has earned the right to leak a little. Who knows how many heat cycles it has been through