timfreddo

Passenger side intake manifold gasket seems to be the problem. Mech friend of mine found it. Guess its always worth going back to basics Anyone done a manifold gasket before? any hiccups. Cheers for the help, Tim.

So I found this.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=997387#post997387 pretty helpful. Realised i had the knock sensor on at the wrong angle, and i had massivly over tightened it. so i pulled it out, had a look. there is a little gap like the one you can see in the last photo, maybe not that big. Put the sensor on again in a better angle, lightly tightened and it did seem to improve my idle slightly.... not much though. So I'm wondering if you think it would be worth buying another $70 knock sensor and trying that? cheers, Tim

yeah now there is 154,000kms. so only 32,000kms since timing belt, and i'm assuming idler pulleys/tensioners were replaced/checked. still pretty good for a 92. Thaught it was a bargain at the time.. Can you tell me if there is a mark on the metal of the cam pulley wheels? looks like the last person to change the timing belt went abit overboard on the whiteout marker. (hopefully the photo works...) The two whiteout blots did seem to be a little off, but it would be good to know if i can scrape the whiteout off without loosing the mark on the metal to investigate more accurately. Head gasket.. Mech just said they were blown, and gave me a huge bill if i wanted it fixed. there is no oil in coolant, or vise versa. there is a tiny oil leak from im assuming (from what i can see from under the car) the rear of each head gasket, but i'm not chewing through oil by any means... If the head gasket was that bad, it would affect compression test results, wouldnt it..??? Have yet to do wet comp test, how much oil and what procedure would you recommend? Another forum mentioned this might be the problem... http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19809 I'm not an electrical guy, so this flys way over my head. help appreciated with the too if possible? Once again, thankyou for your advice and help. It's much appreciated by all who use this forum. Cheers, Tim...

Whats wet and dry? Receipt from timing belt service says... "new belt, 2x new camseals, 1x new crankshaft seal. Inspect pulley wheels and helicoiled tensioner back on." Timing belt replaced at 122,000 kms, now its done 154,000 date done 16th Feb 2010. thanks

Ok, so Took off Air Idle Control Valve, (came off pretty easy so maybe this has been a problem before with a previous owner...) Cleaned it up with carby cleaner, even though it was pretty clean already, valve span fine etc... put it all back together and still have the problem. I'ts only when car is idling. ECU still only giving me knock sensor code. Do you think the new knock sensor i baught could be ************e? Do you think the bad head gaskets could be causing the problem, even though compression on all cylinders is 151-153 lbs/sq-In? Anything else i can try? Cheers, Tim

OK...... New Leads, new spark plugs... Same problem. Drives fine when above 1100rpm, but when stopped at lights etc the engine slowly drops the revs to about 6-700rpm, then picks back up to around 1300rpm, before dropping back down again. the whole drop down, pick up takes arond 2-3 sec per cycle. Repeat the process for the duration of the stop, and then its fine again when you start moving.... Any hints? Cheers, Tim

I'm in Aus, checked prices on leads. only $60 Will change leads and plugs and hopefully that'll help the problem..... cheers, help much apreciated.

cheers for reply. Last timing belt at 122,000km, it now has 152,000km. Last spark plugs at 148000. last tune up at 139,000km unknown last leads replacement, but the writing is still visable and they dont look too old... Do you think it would be worth changing leads and plugs as a first thing to do. Leads are a little pricey, was tring to keep costs to a minimum due to planned trip overseas

Hi All, Just after a bit of help with my subie. 92 EJ22 auto. Check engine light is on. Idling pretty roughly, so took it to local Subaru mech to have a look. They said faulty knock sensor and headgasket, swaybar links were gone. Not sure if the head gaset is causing the idling problem though... No Oil in coolant or vice versa, but does leak oil from one of the gaskets when its warm and running. Just did a compression test, and all cylinders are running between 151 and 153 lbs/sqIn. Check engine light gave me code 22 (knock sensor) so i replaced the old (cracked) one, for a brand newbie. But Even after I reset the Computer both ways, 12hours without batt connected then run for a little while without touching throttle etc... and tried the ignition on, shift through gears, turn on, run at more than 30km/h for more than 1 min and wait for even CEL flashes. ButIts still giving me code 22, and once, but not since it gave me a 43. I looked up the code list i found on this site, and the lists said for my model there is no 43, but for the older model, code 43 is fuel injection problem... I'm jut trying to get the beast running well, so I can sell it and move overseas. Any help with what you think could be wrong with it would be much appreciated. Sorry my post is all over the place, and spelling is bad Cheers, Tim.

Just wondering if we can Leave the car in FWD permanently, and what problems that might cause, as the car is quite old now, and with a repair of $700US its going to cost almost as much as i could sell the car for here in New Zealand. Tim.

Hey, Just a couple of Q's about my problem child. 1994 legacy Ts-r, AT, 220000 km. Car has new CV's. As i accelerate with the wheel turned (ie turning from traffic lights, turning tight bends) the car makes a shuddery/jolty shake and loud noises associated, until the car is headed straight again. Seems like back inside wheel tries to turn faster than the rest (grip,slip,grip,slip etc..). No probs going faster than 10km/h. I put in the FWD fuse and prob stops. Questions are... 1. Is it ok for me to drive round with the FWD fuse in all the time? how about highway driving? 2. Any Ideas on what it could be/How i can fix the prob? Any help would be great. Thanks, Tim.

Hi, My 1994 ts-r did something weired the other day, i'll try and explain it to see if you can help. Was adjusting the cigarette lighter socket, partially broken, moves around in the plastic dash peice. Mustv'e been a little heavy handed as a small puff of smoke (possibly dust) came out. Now everything electrical on that part of the dash doesnt work anymore. Air con controls, CD stacker control and cigg lighter aren't working. Radio still works. Do you guys know if one fuse covers all of the above? If so, is it 10, 15 or 20 and could you let me know where its located? The cars a Jap import, so all writing is all in Japanese Is it easy to follow the Haynes Manual in regards to this? just in case its the wiring and not a fuse? Looking forward to your responses. Tim.

not sure if its the same on a 96 model as my 94 model, but to undo the crank bolt, i placed a large breaker bar either on the chassis next to the battery (bit tight to get on the chassis), or on the ground. take the wires off the dist cap, and crank her over just once (scary), MAKE SURE NOT TO START THE CAR!!! there will be a big clunking, and a bit off kickback on the breaker bar, but if you get it right, the bolt will be loose. To crank it back up, i used the screwdriver in the veiwing hole trick. on the rear of the engine block there'll be a little black plastic cap (if our models are the same??). shove a long screwdriver down the thin gap, and turn the engine clockwise, untill the screwdriver jams. then crank the hell out of the bolt. this is assuming its and auto. if its manual, chuck her in 5th, and have someone put the breaks on. Let us know how you go Tim.

Just went through this job. here's a couple of things that may be useful. if removing fans, they only slot onto the bottom bolts, which snap very easily, so just loosen them off. i needed to use 2 screwdrivers to lever the crank pulley wheel off. just make sure you dont gouge anything with the ends. I found the Starter motor technique (if its auto) to jolt the bolt loose works very well, just pad everything up. hope you have beetr luck than me be very glad you have a non-interferance motor!! Tim.

still have the problem of not having anything to hold the pulleywheels still while i do them up, so dropped it in this morning. hopefully they put it back together, and started it up... will let you know the result and how much more it costs down here in New Zealand! Cheers for replies Tim