wally

problem with the j/y struts is you don't know if you'll get 3 months or 10 years out of them. i'll take my chances with the new ones. at the very least, they fit exactly as the originals. maybe i'll only get a year out of them. or maybe not.

just replaced the original rear gate struts on the '95 wagon. one failed last week, and the hatch wouldn't stay open. got some new ones via rhino-pak (made in the usa even). removal of old and installation of new took about 25 minutes. hatch actually lifts itself open now. for years, i've been "helping" it open, although it always stayed open until a week ago. i'll probably whack myself a few times as it opens by itself. the driver's side was the one that failed. cost with shipping was $37.

in addition to checking the lines carefully, check the filler neck assembly.

if the hesitation is gone, it was the wires, not the gasket.

could be many things. i'd look at something easy first, like spark leakage from the plug wires. spray them with a mist of water in the dark. if you see sparkies, that's part of your problem.

if you've torqued them properly, it shouldn't be an issue. the lugs appear to be seated enough on the studs.

i disagree. 'snake's symptoms describe what i experienced with my '95, which was failure of the center diff (torque bind). the wheel loosens up at the center position because in "straight-ahead" mode, there isn't any noticeable torque bind. i'm still using my original power steering system, and rack, but replaced the transmission, and got rid of the steering issues associated with torque bind. (256,xxx miles and counting)

i use wix filters for my '95, and parts plus 5w-30 (late fall/winter) and 20w-50 (spring/summer). not sure that brand matters, however, i stick to the same brand of oil every time to avoid additive package differences (minor or not). it seems to have worked so far (250K+ miles). same for the wife's corolla, with 200K+ miles.

chef, pretty much exactly the "before" and "after" condition of my lenses, using the permatex kit. wally

i don't know what the case is for the later generation MTs. my '95 MT had a junk viscous center diff, resulting in torque bind (after 225K miles). drove it for another 25K miles in fwd, then replaced the entire transmission, once 3rd, 4th and 5th failed.

i wouldn't rule out an issue with the center diff (torque bind). my '95 had the same symptoms, building up over a period of about 2 years, during which i replaced the steering rack (didn't help). when i removed the front section of the rear driveshaft, the steering "tightness" disappeared. i've since replaced the transmission, which solved the problem. just saying the cause of the problem isn't always obvious. wally

yeah.

the permatex kit isn't complicated. it includes 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit abrasive paper, and a polishing compound with flannel cloth. the abrasives (sandpaper/emery) gradually smooth the surface, removing most of the pitting and cracking. depends entirely on how deep the cracks in the surface are as to how much will be removed. after finishing with the 2500-grit, the polishing compound is applied, which fills in the minor surface imperfections and produces a pretty smooth, clear surface. the yellow haze in the lens surfaces was completely removed, and most of the pits/scratches/swirls were removed (but not all of them). truthfully, the only thing you'd really need from the permatex kit is the polishing compound, as you could purchase emery cloth easily. follow the instructions in the kit, and it should work pretty well. wally

just finished using permatex product to restore the exterior surface of headlights. the headlights on my '95 legacy were very yellow, full of tiny cracks and swirls in the surface of the lenses. after about 2.5 hours of work, the headlight lenses, although not quite in new condition, are now very clear without yellowing. 95% of the swirls and cracks are gone, too. i paid less than $20 for the kit, far less than the cost of replacing both headlight lens assemblies with new ones. very simple to use, no mechanical skills needed, just some patience. the road is now brighter, too. :-\

i don't know that there's any way to identify the VCD as "bad" in a junkyard vehicle. pretty much russian roulette going that route.

update: replaced the transmission over the weekend. the original 5mt lost 4th gear about 2 months ago, and on a trip to michigan a few weeks ago, it started to lose 5th and 3rd (probably a byproduct of lots of metal debris in the transmission from the rounded-off 4th gears). still, it got to 249K. i had picked up a used impreza mt a few months ago with only 125K on it. reverse is slightly lower geared than the original (which i like, that's an upgrade for my work), but everything else was pretty much the same. had to use the original speedo sensor, since it was 2-wire (vs 3-wire from the impreza), and had to use the impreza exhaust hanger from the rear of the trans (it didn't have the two threaded bosses on the side like the legacy mt). replaced the clutch while in there, and reused the legacy shift linkage, albeit with new bushings installed. it's nice to have awd back, without the torque bind. it's also nice to remove the slop from the bad shift bushings. car goes better down the road again, even on the highway. much firmer. only real issue was the car had trouble starting. turns out the old bellhousing left a film on the starter (galvanic action?), preventing a strong ground. once i re-removed the starter, and gave the starter flange and bellhousing mount site the wire-wheel treatment, it started with no problem. no more click, click, click.

i got lucky. we were on the way to MI from NH last week, and the alternator failed while on i-88 in oneonta, ny. i noticed the battery and brake lights were on, so i pulled off the highway at the closest exit. stopped at a state police barracks, and they pointed me to a napa just down the road. tested the output, and with the engine running, battery was putting out fewer volts than with motor off. they (napa) had an alternator in stock, and 25 minutes later (good thing i brought my metric wrenches/toolbox) i was on my way again. averaged just over 30.5 mpg for the total 1700 miles, all without 4th gear. :-\

indeed. he could have mine if he were close enough to pick it up, but, alas, he's on the other side of the continent. i 'spose i could send just the center diff, which has failed. i'm currently in fwd-only, rather than awd.

the keyway on my '95 crank was mangled the last time i did the timing belt. that was over 50K miles ago, and there's no key in there. the pulley even has a slight wobble (off-center).

brake rotors rusty on the outer edge, grinding on the pad?

ngk plugs, but i've been using STI wires for about 200K miles.

only pic of it in 11 years.

interesting thread. demonstrates that we all have peculiar interests wrt our cars. OP has done a terrific job, on the interior especially. it looks great. it is somewhat ironic that it's called the "trashwagon", because it sure looks pristine inside. the exterior fits the description, primarily from the massive dent. me, i don't care what my interior looks like, and it shows in my legacy. purely functional vehicle. for that matter, i don't care what the exterior looks like, either. in the 12 years i've owned it, i've never washed the exterior. keep up the good work on the "outback".

i suppose anything is possible. however, i bought the car with only 50K on it. and the tranny number on the b-h matches the number on the data plate on the driver's side strut tower, which is listed in one of my earlier posts in this thread. so, i don't believe anyone has changed the tranny/diffs as of yet. i did manage to download line drawings of the center diff from either here or nasoic last year. i don't trust the chart at all, especially after using the opposed-forces site information. the chart has misinformation. wally

john, thank you again. i used the link, and i believe i've figured out what i need to know. i no longer need to replace just the vcd, i need to replace the entire transmission. i could repair it, but it would cost more than replacing everything with a used unit. wally