chopsubie

For full time rwd I would recommend removing the spider gears from the front dif and severely reducing its weight. Don't remove it because it plays a large part in lubricating the entire trans. Just reduce the rotating mass. Furthermore, remove the 4wd linkage and weld up the rear output clutch. Put two e brake handles in the center console and set them up to control only one side each. A little practice using the two handles to slow the spinning wheel you should be able to perfect the rwd burnout. But remember you only have 90hp to play with!

Thanks for the response, however that is not what I found this morning with some inline resistors and potentiometer. 4ohms takes the needle right to the top of the printed full mark, and 69 ohms brought the needle just to the bottom of the empty marking. 0 resistance,aside from the very small amount in the conductors takes the gage needle to about 110%, 90 ohms sends the needle below the empty mark about -10%. A universal sending unit of 0-90 ohm Connected in series to a 4 ohm resistor would give me an accurate full level indication, and a conservative empty indication. I'm sure there are some deviations in the accuracy of the gage coils from car to car, and for cars with poor charging systems. I ran my test with a 13.5 vdc supply. Thanks again for the reply, it has been years since my last post.

Can anyone tell me the stock resistance values for the fuel sending unit (in an 82 gl wagon). The fuel tank is gone, so I would like to fab a fuel cell and equip with a universal fuel sending unit to work with the factory fuel gage. Even if someone knows a close value i.e. 0-100 ohm? I'll hook a resistor and a rheostat up to the gage and dial it around until I find the empty and full values if I don't hear anything back. Thanks

Sorry guys, I did convert to coil, but recently sold the car....with all the old air misc. included.

I've had this xt6 with rotten air bags for awhile now. Want to get it back on the road. I have tried searching this forum with no luck. What model and year(s) Subaru front struts (coil spring) will fit the front, and same question for the rear shocks (coilover). Thanks in advance for any links or input. I'm dying to get this thing back on the road.

Any of you t-case guys find a source for straight driveline tubing? The OEM driveline on my 81-83 ea81 wagons is flared. I need to shorten the driveline and the only options I have is to buy new weld on yolks that use the more common Inch size tubing. (2.5" x .062 wall) If I could find some metric tubing for less than $100 bucks I could re-use the OEM weld yolks. Are you T-case guys using the sammy and Toyota drivelines with conversion U-joints? Thanks

thanks for all the input. Jacking it up did kick-start the process. Only to reveal the front bags are leaking. Looks like I am going to convert to coil spring. I hear the 95 and later impreza front struts are a good fit. I have access to a 96 legacy but I am told they are too long. I live in Alaska and could benefit from a little added ground clearance. Will they fit? I was hoping the longer legacy struts would help level it out ( I don't really care for the door stop look) so like milesfox, I have plenty of air suspension components to get rid of. The rear bags are good, compressor, etc. I'll give it away, you pay shipping.

Yes, the module. I have always heard them reffered to as bulbs. I would assume it would be under the driver dash. Perhaps the old one is Already removed.

I apologize, this is a lame question. I have searched and searched, car and internet. I cannot find the location of the blinker flash bulb

Just picked up an 88 xt6, drivetrain is solid, but the air springs wont pump up. If I jumper the compressor, it works. If I jumper the solenoid it opens. I assume it is a control sequence issue with the computer. Anyone know how to reset, or have any further diagnostics? Thanks

Has anyone here seen or tried a hot spark, or pertronix electric ignition, for there nippon or hitachi distributors on an EA81? http://www.hot-spark.com/1-Hitachi-Distributors.htm http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/pdf/ptx/2010/ptx2010_ignition_conv.pdf

like I said before, I know the ea81 is not a high performance engine. I was just curious about others using the 38-38 along with other mods, and how well if at all it would perform. I too like the ej engines, however I have several ea81's & wanted to put one together to throw in an off road only buggy. I'm not expecting to rock out a 120hp ea81, just help it out a little bit. I do appreciate all the input and information you guys have here on the site.

why not reinvent the wheel? If we all thought this way there would be nothing better than plain stock. No aftermarket options etc.

Since I have the engine assembled with the stock cam, I just ordered a 32/36. I just want to know if anyone is trying new things with the ea81, the VW guys are not scared to get 3x the Hp from their 1600cc h-4's.

I see not many people are actively talking about their weber carb swaps, so I'll post this here because it is for a dedicated off road application. I recently built up an ea81, stock cam, stock bore, pistons, etc. I slightly ported the cylinder heads, and decked them ( about .007"). I plan on building some headers with 1-3/4" tube into one 2" with a decent high flow muffler. I will also add a 1-1/2" tube as a crossover as close to the cylinder head outlet as possible. All emissions will be removed, and the vacuum system will be reduced to a bare minimum.(alternator, brakes). I plan on using the hitachi 2bbl intake, but I may build a custom intake later(to separate the hot coolant and incoming air/fuel charge) I really wish I knew about delta camshafts back when I did this, and I will most likely be upgrading to one of their torque grinds some day. Anyways,Do any of you guys have a 38-38 weber on an ea81? If so are your cylinder heads, exhaust system, and cam stock? Is the 38/38 too big for the stock configuration? Is there enough room for adjustment on the 32-36 for both stock and higher performance set-up's? (I realize the ea81 is not a high performance engine, but is a reliable, dependable, and lightweight). Some of you might argue this is too much work and too much to ask from the ea81 design. I appreciate its simple design, just looking to get a couple extra pony's, and help it out on the bottom end some while maintaining or increasing it's dependability.