logic23

Yeah 3-5000 miles is a good aim. The issue/problem with the newer motors is the restrictions in the oil flow at the valves and the filters. the screen type filters are easily clogged and collapse causing a worse issue

I think we can all agree that this is an across the board car manufacturing issue and a general practice of building disposable products. Its just a shame to see it happen and have to "Mad Max" rig together cars out of the "last quality parts that are made" its sounds dramatic but its true. I think the industry or economy will have to hit a tipping point for quality and longevity to be a selling point and a way to do business. bummer

I agree with everything said but the earlier vehicles didn't suffer major failures if you didn't change the oil on time. There are so many factors that will come back to negate the savings that the upgrades offer: -yes the car get better gas mileage with the AVCS system buuuuuuuut that system can fail and cost you $2,000 + dollars to fix. Then the car is a lost leader and it get sent to junkyard. is that saving anyone $ or the environment ?

yes they do!!! .. when you put the newer ones next to the old ones they look like a cheap toy.

they were less prone to failure ( in my opinion ) because of two factors. A. the ratio of "aluminum to size of head" and head shape. I think the dual over-heaad cam engines are more prone to warping and have thinner spots that cause hot areas. B. the headgasket style of the 2.2. squishy graphite type vs an MLS I am currently working with a friend who is an industrial engineer and runs a machine shop to make the spacer/adapters so i can run early phase one 2.2s in post 1999 phase 2 engines.

Well sadly i think most things in life are going the "disposible" route. Yes the customer has an obligation to research the product but i think that is hugely overshadowed by the fact that the manufacture is supposed to be selling a "better" product year by year. The customer shouldn't have to doubt that their 2015 outback is a worse car than their old 02 forester. The marketing/propaganda that subaru is using thru flashy adds has pulled the wool over the eyes of the consumer. As they say in Japan ," very dishonorable" It is our job as independent/ un-biased mechaninics to warn the buying public and let subaru know we are watching.

Well that doesn't help the millions of customers that are currently driving the 05-16 models. I wouldn't bet any amount of money that subaru/toyota are reversing their trend of "build a cheaper car and sell it for more money" Let get back to this topic in 2024 when they are 10 years old and compare notes.

the stock starter on a 05 and earlier wrx is the cheaper one.. the one you want is the outback starter used from 1990-2005ish. It has a serviceable starter solenoid. These guys last forever and the solenoid repair costs 60-70 and you still have an all Japanese unit. I put this in my 2002 wrx when its starter failed in the fall. No issues. All autos are the same all manuals are the same.

if they are the green inner Subaru axles then reboot. its easy and ive seen a very small amount of OEM axles fail even after the boots rip and have been driven. EMPI makes a good boot: fits tight and easy install, comes with grease.

On the 06 watch the AVCS filters and solenoids .. change oil often and also keep an eye on the throttle body. The oil sludge builds up there and makes the drive by wire malfunction at idle. The motor cant overcome the sticky sludge and car will idle funny and throw codes etc. We see this a lot. You can swap in the earlier starter when that one fails and get the plastic a/c idler pulley off that jam asap.

Looks like we have come to the same conclusion. except that im trying to put my customers in 97-99 outback limited with the 2.2 swaps, 04 front brake upgrades and forester struts. The 2000-2004 are the next on the list. I tell customers that i would put my 99 limited OBW( 2.2 swap) head to head with a 2016 and it would last longer ( even with the age handicap) and have fewer problems. THis i would put on paper and sign.

I have been a mechanic for 25+ years first as a mainly VW mechanic and now and a specializing in Subarus for the past 14. I don't get to post here as much as i would like to but this group has been super great over the years. I am writing this to "get the word out" that any Subaru made after 2004 has so many potential expensive failures that I no longer recommend these models as "reliable" vehicles. It seems that Subaru has decided to spend their money on the flashy adds which they pay for buy putting cheaper, inferior, non japanese defective parts on the cars. -I have seen engines under 100k throw rods:(normal oil level, no hard driving, regular oil changes). RING FAILURE -under 100k A/C compressor failures. Pre 2004 i have only replaced 2 compressors since i started working on them -98k AVCS failure that has caused the engines to burn up valves. -120k-150k turbo failures ( not driven hard) that destroy the engine with shrapnel. -Head Gasket Issue never fixed and still seeping/failing -tons of window motor failures. I have maybe replaced 1 motor in 14 years in the 1990-2004 models -Cheaper ( non serviceable) starter put on all vehicles. previously these were only installed on the foresters and imprezas -early power steering pump failures. The earlier models pumps usually made it to 140-160 before leaking. These new models are failing around 120k -plastic intake manifolds. When VW started using plastic parts in the the 90's it was the last straw for me and I stopped working on them. Plastic is cheap and will fail and most of the time be an expensive part. The plastic a/c tensioner pulleys that they stared installing around 2003 have been the cause of 3 timing belt failures. The plastic pulley locked up, the a/c belt being tougher than the pulley kept spinning and melted the pulley in 1/2 and at that point the hot melted pulley shot backwards thru the timing cover and jammed in the timing belt causing the belt to jump time and bend the valves. I'm sure we will continue to see more and more stuff like this as Subaru continues to profit by selling the customer an inferior product for the same high price. I am always looking for ways to retro-fit the earlier, Japanese built parts. Some of the mods are drop in and other take some doing. I would LOVE to hear more from the other veteran mechanics and subaru drivers who have experienced these and other issues. Thank you all so much for being part of this grass-roots forum. Craig

Check your compression too. But this does sound like either extra fuel or an Idle Air Control Valve/motor.

765061000 is the OEM subaru part number for an 85 Brat... still available from several sellers/dealers

thanks ill see what i can come up with

This was the part number listed at the dealership for a window rubber they has in stock. 650 46 GA 060. Do you know if this will fit my 85 Brat?

I am totally down for going in to get repo stuff made. Being a newbie to this body style i guess i still dont know if the window rubber and the chrome molding are the same for the Brat as the Gl wagon, sedan etc. What is the crossover? thanks, craig

I found a windshield that I think is the correct one but I also need the molding and the window seal. THe dealer has no listing for the brat but does for the GL and XT

Hello I just purchased an 85 Brat that needs a windshield. Does anyone know if the windshield is the same as the GL wagon? THanks

Does anyone know the differences between the the 07 and 08 2.5sohc engines in foresters. I need to get one for a customer and have found an 08 for way less than an 06-07. Thanks

the original stalling problem might be related to a clogged/gummed up throttle body.

also check the ignitor ... they have tricked me a couple times

The reason is that everything subaru made after 04 has all kinds of issues related to the cheap , low quality parts( chinese). All kinds of stuff is failing on my customers 05 and up soobs that we never had to mess with in earlier soobs. 05 is the begining of the steady decline in "reliable" subarus

also check knock sensor they will make engine run poorly

So i have all the stuff laying around the shop to do a 97 2.5 DOHC block, 96 2.2 SOHC heads Franken motor. Ive read that you either use the subaru 2.5 DOHC gasket and add some holes for the coolant jacket or get the Cometic gasket. The part that is unclear is what fuel are people using. Ive read a ton of threads and people are saying 85 is fine and others say that you HAVE to use 91. Can anyone with Frankenmotor experience please chime in here. Thanks