logic23

I did the timing belt, water pump and all 4 tensioners while the engine was out..

yeah just double check the tensioner for excessive play and ALWAYS REPLACE THE 3 IDLER PULLEYS. The cogged one is what fails and takes your valves out.

yeah when you have all cylinders miss-firing you have a wider issue like timing, knock sensor or MAF. if your belt jumps on tooth you wont get a cam or crank sensor code but it will miss-fire. the problem is that you have to take the harmonic balancer off to fully inspect. It can be dead on at the cams but a tooth off at the crank which you cant see unless you drill a hole in the timing cover have seen this a couple times and it baffled the dealer mechanics for weeks. Then I got the "stump the chump"... wires, coils and stuff like that usually cause a singular or like previously stated 1/2 or 3/4 miss-fire scenario.

you can put the phase 2 heads on the phase 1 engine. use the HG that came with the block. there are charts that detail what the compression change will be when building these FRANKENMOTORS. Some are slight some are more drastic. You might want to look into installing an oil level sensor After blowing 2 engines it might be a good mod to add. Wire it to your horn so when you when you run low on oil your horn will be honking non stop

Try and retro fit an earlier model. The quality of all the stuff that subaru has been outfitting the cars with has been on a steady decline. Stuff like power steering pumps, AC compressors, sensors etc have all been failing 1000 of miles earlier than their predecessors. Newer is not better. For power steering the lines are the only difference. So in most cases you can use the lines and pump from an earlier model and attach them to the rack and you will be ahead in the long run. Just some wisdom from someone who has been messing and modding on these every day for 14+ years.

could still be the knock sensor... find a know good one or buy a second one. could also be the wires.... only use good NGK wires the cheap ones misfire.

Thanks all for your help. There were 2 issues going on: stuck tumbler valve(drivers side) and i had the coil pack wires switched on the passengers side. The stuck tumbler valve was putting it in LIMP mode. Once i replaced the bad tumbler valve postiton sensor ( front of engine) the valve opens and closes and no code Then the car tried to run and I got cylinder missfire codes. Checked the injectors and coils. thats when i discovered that I put the wires on backwards. She now purrs like a kitten. Should have this on the road soon. its a 2001 wrx with 103K into a soild no rust impreza outback with 278K on the body. upgraded to 04 larger front brakes. tein coilovers. Ill take some pics when shes all buttoned up. Thanks again crew

those engines are compatible too.

check for vacuum leaks... spray starting fluid around the intake gasket area. Check hoses for one thats unplugged.

if you are using a 2.5 dohc block then you need to use the 2.5 dohc headgasket. The pistons come above deck height at TDC. if you use a thinner gasket it wont work.

the diagnostic terminal you are needing is by the steering column. BLACK 6pin If you google search ABS CODES there are several articles that describe what to do.

map-gas ( the yellow bottle) burns hotter than propane. They sell them at LOWES/ HOME DEPOT

So i just finished swapping a 02 wrx (engine, all wiring, trans.. everything) in to a 02 impreza. The WRX was wrecked beyond repair but still ran , shifted, moved etc. The 02 impreza had a blown engine but was rust free When I went to start the car after the swap it sounds like a car that the timing is off. It cranks then has a distinct lag, no backfire though then cranks normal again. Doesn't "lag" everytime but 9/10 times it does Similar to when you install the wrong crank gear/ cam gears on the 2.5 sohc. Any ideas where to start?

Thanks team, It ended up being the igniter. In 14 years of subarus ive never replaced one. I this one got rained on/ hood left open in the rain.

99 cluster is different. the speedometer plug is different. 99 is a one year only cluster

Check the Knock sensor.. they will cause a scenario like this

Just bought a 97 outback with a blown engine. Car wouldn't start with the old engine and didn't think much about it since I was putting a new one in. New engine (2.2) installed and still no spark. Turn the key and fuel pump cycles so the ECU is getting power. Swapped in another ECU ( not 100% sure its good). Swapped the coil pack. The crank and cam sensors came with the new engine so prob not those. I checked the timing prior to engine install and that's all good. Anything I am missing??? Taking the ECU home tonight to see if it starts my 96 legacy auto.

There is a company called Empire that used to be EMPI. EMPI was an aftermarket aircooled VW parts maker. They are good quality joints.. available on amazon under EMPI still.

the best way to pull fuses is the law of 1/2. Take the top 1/2 out then the bottom. depending on which stops the drain then divide them in 1/2 again ( left and right) at some point you will be down to 1 fuse/ circut. Get a wiring diagram and go from most likely to least likely on the circut. Sometimes there are big connectors mid circut ( under seats etc) that you can disconnect and eliminate the whole rear of the car etc. Never had this not work.

The foam seals go around the Cam sensor and the cam protrustion on the head are dust seals and not super important in the bigger scheme of things.

could also be the rear diff bushings

found it .... 11044aa355

update... I have been able to get two of the cars in that are having the issue. I disconnected the big hose off the canister that comes down from the main vent on the tank and they both fill up no problem... on to the next junction.

ill let the world know

Thanks, I have some gas tanks. I was going to dismantle the vents and see which way i need to put air or suction to free them up or where to pour some "stuff" to unclog