logic23

Hey fellow mechanics. Have you seen any issues with the 2006 era heads with the oil advance timing? I just did HG on one and the machine shop showed me where the passengers side head's cam was all messed up. It looked like it was due to oil starvation. The machine shop also had another head( same year/style) in from the dealer that the cam had broken in half due to oil starvation. This is VERY troubling. Wondering if anyone has seen this. Thanks

Hello, I recently rebuilt a couple 2.5 SOHC 2001 engines. (new bearings, reground rods and crank and new pistons) What is the correct procedure for breaking these engines in. Automatic transmissions in the cars they're being installed in. Thanks

also does anyone know if anyone has made adapters to go between the phase two 2.5 manifold and the phase one 2.2 block? i am about to mock some up to see how that works.

This is for a friend with little $ or I would def replace the lower end parts. I'm guessing when you say subaru 610 you are referring to the 2.5 dohc gasket 11044AA610. You can use the 4 bolt blocks with the 8 bolt manuals by welding a 12mm and 10mm stud together then tap the lower transmission hole.... I've done it a couple times including my car when swapping the 2.2 sohc for a blown 99 2.5 dohc. I have a couple good 99 2.5 dohc lower ends that i can use for this.... thanks for the advice. Craig

take the engine out its waaay easier than the transmission. while its out check for oil leaks and/or do the timing belt. At 185,000 you need to check the cogged idler pulley ( part of the timing belt set up) to see if its been replaced if not its about to fail

typically the inner OEm cv joints never fail.. they rip all the time but we reboot them. The EMPI axles are good stuff but they recently swithched name/manufacture to empire and Im not sure if they are the same quality.

Does anyone know if you put phase II 2.5 sohc engine heads on a phase I ( 1997) 2.2 liter (using the 2.2 gaskets) will that engine combo work? I need to get a buddy out of a jam in his 2002 OBW by building him the most inexpensive engine i can and I dont have any good 2.5 sohc lower ends that I trust as is. If the 2.2 phase one wont work will the phase one 2.5 lower end work? Thanks

Does any one know if the phase one and phase two 2.5 non turbos share the same crank? I am rebuilding a couple phase two engines and their cranks are way out of spec. Thanks

They are pretty straight forward to remove/install. You can grab a used one at a junk yard. Especially if someone has already taken the engine.

Thanks ocei77 for the words and PDF.

I was looking to get some advice on a couple 2001 2.5 sohc engines I am rebuilding. Today i miked the main and rod bearing on both cranks and got readings as low as 59.95 ( postion #2) most were 59.98. The book I have says that 59.992 is the min. Any suggestions? polish ? regrind? Thanks

wheel bearing

Ok finally got the car in again to check the engine/compression. This is what i have: 1 and 3 are 127 4 is 0 2 is 75 Ok heres the issue... car idles like crap... obviously because its runningn on 2 cylinder and not even very well on two. When you step on the gas the car has a little hesititation but then runs totally smoothly and seems to have tons of power. Does this still see like rings? I also checked the timing belt and all 4 cams were on their marks. I didn't have time to take the pulley off and check that so its possible the crank timing could be off. When this is the case i usually see a cam position sensor code. Any thoughts???? thanks

it has 107,105. I think we put new plugs in it last spring... I know we at least replaced #4s plug when we did the coil pack. The plugs would have been whatever the computer called for. NGK. Havent check compression yet or valve lash. At idle the timng is at 19 deg. The issues seem to be mainly at idle and it smooths out at upper rmps.

So I have a customers 05 2.5 turbo that has been having issues for awhile. It came in with a multiple cylinder missfire, cylinder 4 missfire, flashing CEL and cruise and irradic idle. We cleared the codes, cleaned the throttle body and the #4 coil pack ( we had a good one used one to use for a test). This seemed to make the situation better for a couple weeks but it all came back. Does anyone have any suggestions or seen this before? Thanks

there aren't many things that will cause an across the board cutout.....Ive seen 02 sensors cause some non CEL hicups. The bigger culprit is the mass air flow sensor.... it can fool the ECU when it cuts out. I think teh ECU thinks the car turned off and back on. A bad knock sensor will throw a code in a second... thats easy to monitor with a scan tool with live data. It will go from 30deg advanced to -12 deg instantly.

yeah that was my thought on the 2.2 engines until recently... I ahve had several issues with my source for japanese 2.2s(Japan Engines in Cincinnati which is part of the larger Japan Engines nationwide) .... I dont trust them anymore. I think they are power cleaning and clear coating whatever engine they can get and selling them as "japan" engines. I also have had issues with the same company selling my customer a "rebuilt" 2.5 sohc. we are on our third and every time the customer has had to pay me to swap. He is about to go into litigation. I would rather do it myself and know its done right.

most 01 Subarus use a Nissan blank.

Take the key core out of the trunk/hatch and they can make a key from that. They are easy to get out (two 8mm nuts )

Would you suggest an inspection the throttle body/clean. Im not sure what octane of gas they were running.... what are the damages that can incur from running to low of octane in these engines?

So i think I am going to start offering complete rebuilt engines (phase I 2.2 , phase II 2.5 and maybe 2.0 turbos) to my customers. I have seen an increase in failed rings and knocking lower ends due to people letting the HG issue go to long. In addition it has been getting harder and harder for me to find good used engines locally. So my questions go out to those of you that have been doing this for awhile. -Do you have the cranks polished vs ground? -do you get the rods reground? -do the cylinders need honed vs reamed? -what brands of bearing and rings do you use? -any other suggestions? I always use OEM gaskets, HG, pumps, etc.

just over 100,000 miles. This car has had its fair share of recent repairs: new turbo and new AC compressor are the two biggies. Subaru must have changed who made their AC compressors around 04-05. I have replaced only 1 or 2 compressors (in the past 10 years) on the early body styles and Ive replaced 5 locked up compressors on 2004-06 foresters and imprezas.

Definitely replace the front O2 sensor with an OEM unit. I think the 99 came with a Bosch. They are different parts for auto and stick. should cost around $100 but at 14mpg you it will pay for itself pretty quickly. I would also change the plugs too.... they might be a little black and sooty

I have I car coming in tomorrow(05 forester turbo manual) that stalls intermittently when coming to a stop. It a has a CEL that shows a #4 cylinder misfire. I plan to address that first but I doubt that is causing the stalling. In my experience the stalling issue + no related CEL = failing mass air flow meter.

I also have always had luck with a large ball peen hammer...The heavier the better. Back the castle nut off a little but not too far or if you miss you will bend/dent one of the points of the castle. There is also a smaller version of a pittman arm puller that puts pressure on the tie rod and will eventually pop it out. I also use a modified pittman arm puller on ball joints to get them apart.