[Phase 2 EJ engines leaking fuel *PLEASE READ*]

Just posting this to avoid any dangerous situations. 

On the phase 2 EJ engines intakes there are 3 sections of around 3 inch high pressure line:

one on the drivers side just below where the fuel lines from the car connect

one on the front passengers side ( partially covered by metal shield on some models) 

and one in the back going to the fuel pressure regulator 

The first 2 are the ones that i have seen leaking regularly

I think that over time the fuel line shrinks with age so the hose clamps are no longer tight. 

Just a couple turns will usually stop the leaking. Make sure you have the proper philips head so that you dont strip them 

Some times it takes a little work to rotate the clamps around so that you can easily get to them with a screw driver. 

I tightened the ones on my 2002 forester S over the summer but last week wiht the extreme cold we had here in Ohio mine started leaking again. 

Turned the clamps a little more and havent seen anymore leaks. 

So please check yours and keep a nose out for gas fumes. 

I can add some pics if people would like 

Thanks 

[97 Impreza transmission question]

I did a little searching and found this old thread 

It looks like the legacy and impreza transmissions have the 4.11 final drive where the outbacks have the 4.44. So i guess i could use an outback one and swap the rear diff too. 

will the TCU work/shift the outback trans properly? Swap that too? 

 

[97 Impreza transmission question]

Hello,

I have a 97 Impreza Outback with the TZ102ZA5AA automatic transmission. 

It had a 2.2 engine but i put a 2.5 in for fun. 

While i friend was borrowing the car 3rd gear seems to have gone out. Shifts perfectly into 1st and 2nd then just revs up when it hits 3rd. 

The fluid level is fine (was a little low when it went out) so im guessing that its toast. 

My question is: I have a couple of good outback transmissions. Will a 97-98 outbacks transmissions work/swap? 

I feel like ive done this before but cant remember. 

Thanks

[HELP Intermittent Cutting out / dying 99’ legacy outback]

Check the grounds.

The main one from the negative side of the battery to the starter can get funky and cause issues. 

There is one on the intake that can also get checked. 

And the one from the battery to the body of the car. 

I have seen all 3 of those get cruddy and cause all kinds of issues 

 

[05 outback wagon with torque bind]

18 hours ago, Numbchux said:

When I worked at the dealership, we frequently handed out the gasket for the duty C solenoid, a little pipe in the tailhousing, as well as the clutches, housing gasket and output seal. I don't remember exactly the symptoms, but I know the fluid from the solenoid and clutches could leak down and cause some symptoms (usually eventually worn clutches).

 

If you want it done right the first time. Likely that whole list from Subaru, as well as some new HP fluid and OEM filter.

Thanks for that... the clutches are next on my list after fluid changes.

The tires are matching but the rears are to the were indicators and the fronts are like 1/16 to 1/8 above. 

So im going to also swap a different tires too

 

[05 outback wagon with torque bind]

2 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

is the car new to him? any chance the tires are mismatched or a prev. owner has swapped trans or rear diff to non-matching final drive?

I wouldn't rule out trans fluid bad/contaminated so, I agree with that as step one. I THINK you can use the European Valvoline MaxLife fluid.

No he has had the car for several years. Ill check the tires/tread depth here soon. 

I am just a little confused it seems like if the solenoid works with the fuse then it should work fine under normal operation. 

Ill figure it out by process of elimination . I have a low milage 05 forester trans with the same setup that i know didnt bind. so i can swap stuff from that if it gets to that point. 

Im going to try fluid and filter first then additive and new gear oil in rear diff next then attack the tail cone clutches.( swap in used unit ) 

Thanks 

[05 outback wagon with torque bind]

Hello all,

I have a customers 05 outback 2.5 engine and the 4eat trans. (TZ1B7LCAXA) aprox 197K miles 

Customer brought the car in complaining of the classic torque bind while doing tight cornering. 

I had him install the FWD fuse prior to bringing it in to see if that eliminated the bind... it did. 

So my question is : if the the fuse works then the Duty C solenoid is working and the clutches are working ... correct? 

What should i attack next? 

I saw/read an old thread from 10 years ago and it looks like changing the fluid and filter are step one then possibly swapping the tail cone..

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/123390-valve-body-replacement-to-solve-torque-bind

Thanks for any help i havent dealt with the bind on the 05 and up cars .

Craig 

[2012 forester shifting issues]

2 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

check timing? maybe off by a tooth. They car run but be down on power.

if it seems like the car hasn't had great carein the past, certainly possible to have more than one issue.

definitely has been driven hard and not taken care of. 

With the high oil consumption and 120 per cylinder i just went to worn rings/ blow by.. this year seems to have that issue.. 

Am i right that the compression should be 180-200?  

[2012 forester shifting issues]

Hello, 

Ok i have a customers 2012 NA 2.5 forester with the non CVT transmission . 

The car came in stalling and the customer complained of no power and going thru tons of oil. 

I drove it and it seemed like the transmission was slipping: when driving it seemed to ( like they said ) have no power but it also seemed to be revving real high and making all kinds of clanking noises.  

i tried to manually shift it and it still seemed like it was slipping (like a slipping manual trans/clutch) 

checked fluid level and it was OK. Drained the fluid and it smelled real burnt. 

I also checked the compression and got 120 across the board. I dont mess with many of these FB series engines but im guessing that is REAL low. 

I had a line on an identical transmission that was good so i installed that. 

Theres no subaru dealer close to me so i read that Max Life multi vehicle ATF works  so i filled this trans with that and test drove. 

The shifting situation was waaaay better but still if you press down on the pedal it wants to downshift but theres no power from the engine so it just revs trying to get the car going. 

This is how i think the original transmission got hosed. 

Does this sound like a situation that anyone has heard of? 

Any ideas would be appreciated. 

Thanks, 

Craig 

 

 

[03 ll bean outback temp gauge]

so sometimes you get lucky >

The issue was that someone had spliced in a new coolant temp plug and wired it wrong... on the H6 there is one wire thats the same color as the H4. its a white with blue/green stripe.

The issue is that its a different wire/ position on the plug.  rewired correctly and ECU and gauge are both functioning properly. 

The splice was under the intake so it was hard to see it... like i said... sometimes you get lucky. 

Thanks y'all for the input

Craig

[03 ll bean outback temp gauge]

8 hours ago, forester2002s said:

Nice bit of sleuthing! I'm impressed

yeah ive learned over the years how to eliminate the big things quickly ... this was the first time i had done this  

[03 ll bean outback temp gauge]

yeah i was going to go the computer and add a jumper wire off the ground wire to see if that corrects it. 

You talking about the wires that break in between the body and rear hatch from repeated opening?

[03 ll bean outback temp gauge]

Ok team... heres another weird one. 

I have a customers 03 LL bean H-6 engine. 

Car arrived with an over heating issue from a bad headgasket job. I could drive the car about a mile and then it would overheat and start blowing steam etc. 

So we replaced the engine with a JDM unit and when i went to drive it the temp gauge shot to normal temp by the time i had driven 25 yards.  by the time i had driven 1/8 mile it had pegged in the hot. 

Knowing that the engine cant get that hot that fast i then grabbed my scan gauge to see what the computer was reading. it was reading 246 deg ( which is as hight as that goes).

The car is not hot. i was able to take the radiator cap off and there wasnt even any pressure built up...

I swapped in a couple different coolant temp sensors to see if that helped.... same result. 

I then pulled a forester up that has the same sensor and made a jumper wire  and used a jumper cable to ground the 2 cars . Now the forester was able to read the temp of the H6 engine. The gauge read normal operating temp and the computer was reading 189 deg.  now we know the engine is fine and the sensor is fine. 

This feels/acts like a bad ground. when you turn the headlights on the gauge moves. When you turn the turn signal on the gauge fluctuates. When you rev the engine the gauge moves. 

I pulled up the wiring and it seems real simple: one wire goes directly from the sensor to the computer, one wire goes to the gauge and the 3rd wire seems to be a ground for several thing including the computer. 

Just wondering if anyone had seen this and where to start. 

Thanks,

Craig

 

[2003 forester with a few issues.]

the window is definitely  going to be the motor. 03 and up started using cheap motors (among tons of other cheap parts)...they fail all the time. I think you are better off to use the motor portion of a 99-02 forester they will last the life of the car. 

 

[2002 forester transmission compatibility]

1 minute ago, lmdew said:

As long as the Rear diff matches the Trans you are good.

yeah i was more worried about the trans computers having an issue

i think all the 99-2003 outbacks and 2000-2003 forester auto trans have a 4.44 final drive.  

[2010 Legacy Timing Belt Change Info - HELP]

You can also get all the japanese stuff you need from amazon at a fraction of the cost. Mitsuboshi timing belt, gmb or aisin waterpump. koyo or nsk idler pulleys and subaru oil seals. I would also replace the cheap squeeze clamps on the radiator with the earlier ones with a bolt that tightens them. if you need i can get you links. 

[2002 forester transmission compatibility]

Hey crew, 

I have a customers 2002 forester S automatic trans. 260+K miles TZ1A3ZC2AA

Its making a noise/ whine at higher speeds when you are accelerating. When you let off the gas it goes awat. to me it sounds like a bearing in the front diff.

Anyways i am doing an engine swap and was going to swap the trans since its so easy to do with the engine out. 

I have a good trans from a 99 obw TZ1A2ZJEBA and a trans from a 2000 OBW TZ1A4ZCABA

Both are phase 2, 8 bolt with spin on filters... 

I feel like i have done these swaps before and they worked fine.. 

Any thoughts? 

[2011 outback stalling and p2096 code]

sorry for the delay the customer was out of town.. 

I turned the CEL light off and am waiting to see if the code and stalling are related. 

I havent inspected the exhaust but its not loud or making any exhaust leak noises.

 

[2011 outback stalling and p2096 code]

Hey y'all i have a new customer with a 2011 outback( 2.5 n/a engine). 

Customer is having issues with intermittent stalling ( car starts right back up ). 

Car also has a p2096 code that the customer says has been on for "awhile"

I cleaned the throttle body as this is the main issue ive seen with the drive by wire engines stalling/running poorly. 

It wasnt that dirty compared to some that i've seen.

Any thoughts as what to attack next? 

[06 forester starting issue]

So the "new" battery fixed the issue. The newer drive by wire setups must be more sensitive to voltage/amperage drops. 

I took the battery out of the 06 and dropped it into my 02 forester S and havent had an issue. 

Thanks for the support and answers

 

[06 forester starting issue]

12 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

Hmmmm.....if it IS cranking but not starting, here's a coupla things to try;

spray some starting fluid into the intake to see if it fires - if so, some odd issue with fueling.

measure the voltage while cranking, really should be 10 or more volts I think.

are any codes stored? even pending codes?

 

i have a can of start fluid in the car , jumper wires and a test light for the next time it acts up.  

Thanks

 

[06 forester starting issue]

10 hours ago, forester2002s said:

Measure the voltage twice:

- First, at the +ve battery-post

- Then again at the starter-motor terminal (where the large wire is connected).

There shouldn't be much of a voltage diffetence between these 2 readings.

Ill check this next time... my daily is a 5sp 2002S in. silver... its my favorite subaru so far. 

[06 forester starting issue]

15 hours ago, Rampage said:

That really is a weird problem. Here are a couple thoughts.

When cranking, something is starving for power until you connect the jump pack. That will supply extra current and keep the voltage up when cranking with the starter. Once it is running the ALT outputs over 14 volts so the amperage is up and it keeps running.

Maybe it wants a higher amperage battery. What does the voltage drop to when cranking. And what is the drop with the jump pack connected?

The starter motor could be drawing more current than normal. After all, it is an electric motor.

My first thought was battery negative grounds to the body. Add a few and see what happens. The ECU gets several grounds off the body.

Fuel or spark would be next.

When it doesn't fire check for spark from the coil.

And see if the fuel pump is running while cranking. Or, better check the fuel pressure with a gauge.

ill check the voltages the next time it does it.  

I cleaned all the pos and neg connections at the battery, starter and right next to the battery.  

It also has the 2 extra grounds that go from the body to the block ... they are in good shape. 

I dropped a 1 month old battery in from my 2002 forester to see if that changed it.. 

Its warmer ( 40 deg ) today but will drop next week.. will be interesting to see if its temp related.

Thanks for all the support

 

[06 forester starting issue]

2 hours ago, brus brother said:

Seems like overkill but hey if ya got a spare engine laying around... Thanks for the laugh.

Good luck hunting down the gremlin.

The car was in to have the worn out engine replaced   it had been having the issue but i didnt want to start diagnosing until i had a fresh engine in and made sure all contacts were good. 

 

[06 forester starting issue]

18 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

denso starters can have worn contacts/plunger in the solenoid when old. Rebuild kits are available.

or, iffy batt cables or ground connections???

the starter is fine... it cranks fine but wont fire until you put a jumper pack on or battery charger. Then it fires right up