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Everything posted by logic23

  1. Ok team... heres another weird one. I have a customers 03 LL bean H-6 engine. Car arrived with an over heating issue from a bad headgasket job. I could drive the car about a mile and then it would overheat and start blowing steam etc. So we replaced the engine with a JDM unit and when i went to drive it the temp gauge shot to normal temp by the time i had driven 25 yards. by the time i had driven 1/8 mile it had pegged in the hot. Knowing that the engine cant get that hot that fast i then grabbed my scan gauge to see what the computer was reading. it was reading 246 deg ( which is as hight as that goes). The car is not hot. i was able to take the radiator cap off and there wasnt even any pressure built up... I swapped in a couple different coolant temp sensors to see if that helped.... same result. I then pulled a forester up that has the same sensor and made a jumper wire and used a jumper cable to ground the 2 cars . Now the forester was able to read the temp of the H6 engine. The gauge read normal operating temp and the computer was reading 189 deg. now we know the engine is fine and the sensor is fine. This feels/acts like a bad ground. when you turn the headlights on the gauge moves. When you turn the turn signal on the gauge fluctuates. When you rev the engine the gauge moves. I pulled up the wiring and it seems real simple: one wire goes directly from the sensor to the computer, one wire goes to the gauge and the 3rd wire seems to be a ground for several thing including the computer. Just wondering if anyone had seen this and where to start. Thanks, Craig
  2. so sometimes you get lucky > The issue was that someone had spliced in a new coolant temp plug and wired it wrong... on the H6 there is one wire thats the same color as the H4. its a white with blue/green stripe. The issue is that its a different wire/ position on the plug. rewired correctly and ECU and gauge are both functioning properly. The splice was under the intake so it was hard to see it... like i said... sometimes you get lucky. Thanks y'all for the input Craig
  3. yeah ive learned over the years how to eliminate the big things quickly ... this was the first time i had done this
  4. yeah i was going to go the computer and add a jumper wire off the ground wire to see if that corrects it. You talking about the wires that break in between the body and rear hatch from repeated opening?
  5. the window is definitely going to be the motor. 03 and up started using cheap motors (among tons of other cheap parts)...they fail all the time. I think you are better off to use the motor portion of a 99-02 forester they will last the life of the car.
  6. Hey crew, I have a customers 2002 forester S automatic trans. 260+K miles TZ1A3ZC2AA Its making a noise/ whine at higher speeds when you are accelerating. When you let off the gas it goes awat. to me it sounds like a bearing in the front diff. Anyways i am doing an engine swap and was going to swap the trans since its so easy to do with the engine out. I have a good trans from a 99 obw TZ1A2ZJEBA and a trans from a 2000 OBW TZ1A4ZCABA Both are phase 2, 8 bolt with spin on filters... I feel like i have done these swaps before and they worked fine.. Any thoughts?
  7. yeah i was more worried about the trans computers having an issue i think all the 99-2003 outbacks and 2000-2003 forester auto trans have a 4.44 final drive.
  8. You can also get all the japanese stuff you need from amazon at a fraction of the cost. Mitsuboshi timing belt, gmb or aisin waterpump. koyo or nsk idler pulleys and subaru oil seals. I would also replace the cheap squeeze clamps on the radiator with the earlier ones with a bolt that tightens them. if you need i can get you links.
  9. Hey y'all i have a new customer with a 2011 outback( 2.5 n/a engine). Customer is having issues with intermittent stalling ( car starts right back up ). Car also has a p2096 code that the customer says has been on for "awhile" I cleaned the throttle body as this is the main issue ive seen with the drive by wire engines stalling/running poorly. It wasnt that dirty compared to some that i've seen. Any thoughts as what to attack next?
  10. sorry for the delay the customer was out of town.. I turned the CEL light off and am waiting to see if the code and stalling are related. I havent inspected the exhaust but its not loud or making any exhaust leak noises.
  11. Hey group been a minute since ive posted. I have a customers 06 LLbean forester 2.5 NA engine. Its having an issue where sometimes it will crank ( normal speed) but not start. The weird thing is If you put a jumper pack or charger on it it starts right up. I swapped in a different battery before i did the swap but that didnt seem to change anything It doesnt seem to matter how long the car has sat but temp might have an issue. I just put a 50-60k JDM engine in the car and had hoped that with the engine swap the start issue would go away. when we installed the engine yesterday it fired right up and then an hour or so later when i went to run an errand but today. Hope someone here has seen this and can shed some light on the issue. Thanks, Craig
  12. So the "new" battery fixed the issue. The newer drive by wire setups must be more sensitive to voltage/amperage drops. I took the battery out of the 06 and dropped it into my 02 forester S and havent had an issue. Thanks for the support and answers
  13. i have a can of start fluid in the car , jumper wires and a test light for the next time it acts up. Thanks
  14. Ill check this next time... my daily is a 5sp 2002S in. silver... its my favorite subaru so far.
  15. ill check the voltages the next time it does it. I cleaned all the pos and neg connections at the battery, starter and right next to the battery. It also has the 2 extra grounds that go from the body to the block ... they are in good shape. I dropped a 1 month old battery in from my 2002 forester to see if that changed it.. Its warmer ( 40 deg ) today but will drop next week.. will be interesting to see if its temp related. Thanks for all the support
  16. The car was in to have the worn out engine replaced it had been having the issue but i didnt want to start diagnosing until i had a fresh engine in and made sure all contacts were good.
  17. the starter is fine... it cranks fine but wont fire until you put a jumper pack on or battery charger. Then it fires right up
  18. once it starts youll need to drive it.. THis year subaru needs to "learn" how to properly run the engine after the battery has been disconnected.. same thing happens after you clear the check engine lights. They will run like crap for a short while then usually run fine after.
  19. Hey guys, I picked up an 05 Forester XT with a blown 2.5 engine with the avcs set up. I know there is a JDM 2.0 turbo with avcs that will replace it but does anyone know about using a non avcs 2.0 turbo engine and doing some tune or delete trick so that the ECU insn't looking for the AVCS stuff. I would like to run the more reliable 2002-2003 wrx stuff. Thanks Craig
  20. Hello i have a question that some of you might be able to answer. I have a couple customers 99 foresters that i just installed JDM 2.0 SOHC engines. After test driving them and getting them up to temp i noticed that the radiator hoses have a decent amount of pressure in them. You can still squeeze the hose but you cant squeeze it enough to get the sides of the hose to touch. On my 99 outback with a phase 1 2.2 i can drive it the same distance/temp and the hose has almost no pressure in it when warmed up. Ive never paid much attention to hose pressure unless there's an overheating issue. Just wondering what the difference might be
  21. the piston shape is the main way to tell. shoot us a pic of the pistons and im sure one of us can figure it out
  22. not very much. the engines were just installed. After they burp their air thats about a cup or so of anti freeze to top off.
  23. Hello group, I have a friends 2011 outback with a N/A 2.5 that needs an engine. I have a low mileage 2008 JDM N/A 2.5 engine that i wondered would fit. The valve covers will need swapped so that the coil packs will have somewere to bolt. There is also the obvious peripherals like the intake that i will need to swap. Any help is appreciated, Craig
  24. The issue with the 2011 is that it jumped time and bent valves. Thanks