Murthius

Ah! That explains it thank's so much. I just ordered the bracket and pin from Autozone's website since the cost difference isnt very much after the shipping is added, and I figure if I have a problem I can just take it right back to the store instead of having to worry about shipping back to rockauto. But now im confident it should work fine. All I need to do is get the 17mm bolts that hold the bracket on, since mine are rusted and stripped lol.

So a while back I posted about how i stripped the threads in my caliper bracket, and the guide pin was not able to stay in. I'm about to get a new bracket and guide pin since the pin fell out somewhere, and i noticed something interesting: I have 15 inch wheels, however the guide pin that I know my caliper uses is listed as being for 14 inch wheels on rockauto.com, and the one they have for 15 inch wheels is completely different! Here is the one that matches the one I had[Edit: it's the gold one.]: http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=3054534&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/Carlson/14075.jpg Here is the one they say is for 15inch: http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=307720&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/Raybestos/H15165-1.jpg I also noticed that the ones that look different from mine both have "Outback" in the description while the one that looks like mine doesn't. Were the brakes on the outback different from other legacy's and maybe someone put normal legacy calipers on at some point? Should I just get the one that I know fits? Thanks for any help!

thanks for the suggestion, I have the muffler and pipe on their way and found an exhaust shop that's going to install them for me so they can do some custom work to hook it to the cat. Main problem was most places won't use my parts and want to charge 4x the cost just for the parts, let alone labor. So lets see where this goes!

So I was driving home from the store and heard something dragging, pulled over and turns out my mid-pipe was dragging. pulled it off and shopping around for options, but it looks like the cat isn't a OE/direct fit so a new resonator won't just bolt onto it. I was wondering if there are any options other than welding to attach it, or should I just buy a new cat for $140 from Rockauto along with a direct fit resonator so I can just bolt it all together and not have to do anything to make it fit. Even with getting the cat and pipe and doing it myself, it's cheaper than just having any of the shops I called do it.

So I'm continuing work on the 96 OBW 2.5 4EAT. Got my 12v plug wired up and it works great, got some vice grips and new bolts for my little caliper problem, and then I'll be moving onto my CEL codes. I have: P0400: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0141: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2) EGR system itself seems to be fine, the hoses and valve are undamaged and hold vacuum, but i've heard the 02 sensors may effect how the ECU determines if the EGR system is working properly. So whatever is causing the P0135 and P0141 could potentially be setting off the P0400? I'll be getting in there tomorrow to check for problems with the wiring from the 02 sensors, but other than that and the sensors themselves needing replacement, is there anything else I should be looking for? Wondering about the likelihood that both sensors are bad. Also (and probably totally unrelated) I noticed a frayed wire coming from my ECU. Looking at the pinout it seems to be the camshaft position sensor. Wondering what that would effect. Ah, and my headlight issue. I'm about to search for some threads now about it, but i've noticed the wires that go to the headlights were cut and about 3 inches of black wire (so who knows if they are even on the right contacts) spliced to them. Nothing leads anywhere it shouldn't, so maybe it was a headlight mod that was removed after and re-wired incorrectly? Basically I can flash the high beams, but they won't stay on. Also, one light or the other will randomly turn off (tapping on the light or slamming the hood turns it back on) and sometimes the high beam indicator light comes on when low beams are on. O.o Also I've found what appears to be a 3 prong power outlet sticking out from under where the battery sits. I'm almost scared to touch anything. Haha. But after all that, some new side mirrors and some body work, it should be good to go. Not including the re-seal that the engine clearly needs, as it seams to be slowly leaking from... well everywhere it seams. Transmission pan has a slow leak as well but that's easy.

Ah nice thanks, didn't realize that. Well I went for a drive to the store and clearly heard that bolt fall out and roll on the ground on the way there hehe. I pulled over to look for it but couldn't find it so I'll be hitting an auto parts store to get a new pin as you suggested. Thanks for the help you guys I really thought I was screwed for a bit there, and was planning on getting a whole new caliper. /facepalm

Oh wait I just read that again and I think we are talking about different bolts. The threads I stripped are the ones that the long bolt goes into which allows you to swing the caliper up to change the pads, not the ones that hold the bracket on. Still ok to drive? Sorry for the confusion.

Ok thanks, that at least makes me feel better about driving it haha.

So I changed out my pads today and when I was putting the bolt that goes into the bottom that allows you to swing it up, I tightened it a bit too much, and took out about half the threads from the inside of the caliper. put it as tight as I can by hand (no tools at all) but any farther and it just goes right back around. I figure if nothing else the wheel itself would keep the caliper from sliding up, and the bolt is kinda in there too. Is it safe(ish) to drive it like this? At least until I can get it repaired? At low speeds maybe?

Ah sweet thanks everyone. Gonna go out and wire it up tonight feeling pretty safe that I'll be doing it right after the replies and someone telling me black is always ground so im sure ill be fine sticking green in the middle and black on the outside especially if thats how its supposed to be for 95-99. Now I just need to figure out how im going to plug that in after the radio is in the way haha! Figure ill have to squeeze my hand in the small opening just next to the lighter.

so black to the center and green to the side?

Ah thanks. Hopefully the light stays off after I do that and clear the code, I've seen a lot of posts about the light coming back on after a few days even after getting a new valve and cleaning out every part involved lol hope that doesnt happen to me!

So I have my new outback and one of the things I was going to tackle was hooking the 12v outlet back up, it appears it was pulled out when the previous owner took their radio out. I looked up how to hook it up (black wire to the center pole white on the side) but when I went in to do it, I was a bit confused at what I saw for wires and am hoping someone can help me out! Basically it looks like there are 4 wires (2 black, 1 white, 1 green) the 4 go into a small mess of electrical tape and at the other end of that is a black and green wire that have female connectors that will go onto the outlet, and a black and white wire that seem to have male connectors. At first I assumed the black should go to the center still and the green on the side in place of where the white would be? But then I decided to look it up before I mess anything up, but I can't find anything.

So I just got a 96 OBW 2.5L Automatic and it's throwing a few codes, O2 sensors (P0135, P0141), knock sensor (P0325), and blocked EGR passage (P0400). I've read alot of threads about the P0400 code and almost dread the run around that may be associated with trying to fix the issue, but my engines performing quite poor so I am going to try everything to get it running better. I Haven't tried anything yet, just getting prepared and I was wondering, if it comes to cleaning out the vac lines, is it ok to just spray carb cleaner down the tubes and let the engine spit the gunk out the exhaust or will that make things worse? Or option 3, is that not even how it would work and I'm talking out of the wrong hole? Haha. Theres a host of other problems I need to tackle but so far I think this will be the most confusing, so if anyone has any info, it would be greatly appreciated!

It's a 93 Impreza automatic. Sorry, I always seem to forget to give enough info lol. I've tried all the basic stuff, but I have noticed that when I press the button on the shifter it doesn't make that click sound it usually does and I understand thats the sound of the key being released.