nepppen

I don't have access to the footage other than their facebook page.

I friend of mine tried to exact revenge for playing a prank on him. He decided to place two large pieces of angle iron under my passenger tires. I knew the angle iron was there and that i was being filmed. What the pranksters failed to realize is that I drive an 85 wagon equiped with a dual range hi-lo five speed transmission. The angle iron lost. https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?v=10152279433649373 nepppen

hello all, I am having issues with my climate control system. My blower motor works fine, but only the vents located chest level emit air. I this a vaccum problem? I am a little stumped. any advice is always appreciated, nepppen

Ruparts, Yes, Do you know where I can find some? Nepppen

Hello all, Does anyone have or know where I can aquire the clips that hold the plastic over over a factory installed ac coil in a 1985 gl wagon? Thanks, Niles

Hello, all: Does anyone have a 1985 subaru gl wagon parts car? I lost the castle nut that goes on the outer tie rid. Thanks, Nepppen

Hello: all, I finally have the cv halfshalf installed along with the hub and disk brake. The piston on the new caliper will not completely disengag, thus causing the brake pad housing not to fit over the brake pads. Any suggestions on how to depress the piston. I opened the brake bleeder valve and still no luck. Nepppen

Never mind, I found the issue and it is not the transmission!!!

Hello all, I installed new calipers, rotors, and pads. The new calipers were rubbing on the rims since the rims were not original equipment for the car. I ground down the lines from the sand castings and installed two grade 8 washers around the studs. 7/16" thick washers fit perfect. The ginding from the original wheel did not go away. Since I had new bearings installed, and installed a new hub and half-shaft myself, I assumed the transmission was damaged due to the caliper locking up. I took the half-shaft off to isolate the grinding sound. The inner bearing came out in bits and pieces. A lot of those bits are welded to the half-shaft. What would cause that bearing to fail. The outer bearing is in mint condition. I had the shop align the vehicle after the repair and they have done other work to the vehicle that has been spot on. What would cause a new bearing to fail so badly? Any and all input is greatly appreciated!

Does anyone have a hi-lo transmission in good shape they would be willing to sell?

I do believe I have the jackman rims. When I bought the wagon it had the jackman rims on and the previous owner gave me the original rims. I think I am going to have the wheels mounted on the orignal rims before I have them power coated. Has anyone had their rims power coated, I am curious to know what a reasonable price is for that service.

Good afternoon, all: I took the wheels off only to discover the new calipers are grinding on the rims. I am going to hand file the caliper bracket down in an attempt to fix the problem. Any input is ALWAYS appreciated!

I am pretty sure I installed the pads correctly and I did not notice any corrosion on the ebrake cables. I was talking to a mechanic friend of mine late last night and he thinks the master cylinder is bad. I am going to go ahead and install new rear cylinders, drums, lines and a master cylinder. Thank you for the replies and I will post the results.

Hello all, Last summer, after driving on the highway, I heard a squealing sound coming from the passenger front wheel. The next day when driving around 40 mph the wheel locked. I was able to steer it onto the side of the road. The caliper was seized up and I was able to pry it loose. I drove it a few feet and realized I would need a tow. The tow truck was a flat-bed wrecker and pulled the car up onto the bed. While the car was being pulled the locked wheel popped loudly one time and began spinning freely. I was able to roll it backwards into my driveway. This summer I finally got around to working on the vehicle. I purchased new Beck/Arnley loaded calipers, rotors, and hydrolic hoses. I drained the old fluid with a Mytivac and installed new fluid. I tested the ebrake and it does not feel as tight as it was before. I also did a Weber 32/36 conversion which is almost finished. I just have to figure out how to adjust the idle and check my pcv lines for proper routing. The car started up and when I attempted to drive it felt like the wheels were locking up very similalry to when the vehicle felt after it initially ran when I tried to drive it before I called the tow-truck. I had the bearing relaced a couple of thousand miles ago from a very reputable shop, and I am at a loss on what to start working on next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I am bound and determined to have my Subie's climate control system functional. I thought I installed all new green o-rings in the AC lines. I missed two in the passenger side evaporator coil. I cleaned out the evaporator coil as best as I could without running a fire hose to it. The two missing o-ring connections on the evaporator coil: The cover that forces air through the evaporator coil and into the remaining duct work was broken in the rear. I am sure someone became frustrated and just ripped it out. The reapir is as follows: First I used aluminum duct tape to seal the plastic housing. Second, I used part of a two liter plastic bottle to reinforce the tape. After installing the plastic I sealed the other side with additional aluminum tape. I did not worry about wasting tape and overlapped my horizontal and vertical seams. Tomorrow I will install suitable condensate insulation.