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clunkerbob

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About clunkerbob

  • Rank
    USMB Regular

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    northern Arizona
  • Interests
    restoring old cars , motorcycles . Gun collecting and shooting
  • Occupation
    mechanic
  • Ezboard Name
    clunkerbob
  • Vehicles
    1982 Brat GL , 1979 Brat DL
  1. clunkerbob

    Engine Honing

    A ball hone is the best for braking the glaze in a cylinder if you are reringing an engine . A rigid hone is best for setting piston clearance after reboring a cylinder but will work if used sparingly . DONT try to get out all the marks or scores in a used bore , its not neccesary and will create too much piston to wall clearance by the time you are done hacking away . Remember , you are just breaking the glaze so the new rings will seat . A nice even crosshatch is what you are looking for . Subie cylinders are good material and rarely taper or wear very much . Another thing thats critical is to wash the honed bores out with hot soapy water , NOT just solvent or brake clean . Solvent takes out the oil but leaves the abrasive in the crosshatch to wear the new rings . You can use solvent first , but finish off with the soapy water . Douche out the block completely with soapy water , rinse , and blow it out with compressed air and coat cylinders with oil so they dont flash rust and you are good to go . Make sure the valve guides are tight and seals if used are new and you wont have any oil consumption problems . For break in I used to let the engine pull full throttle from about 15 -20 MPH up to speed in top gear back down again . Do this maybe 10 times or so in a row and the new rings are seated . Bob
  2. I've been in the auto trade all my life and what I've found in todays world is there arent many real good alignment people left . The old guys who really understood what they were doing are a rare breed and most have all retired or died off . The late crop just put a vehicle on the computerized rack and adjust the things that the machine says are off IF they can , and hand you a printout and make excuses . Everything is adjustable even if it isnt according to the factory , but it takes time and sometimes creative methods to adjust it . They dont want to be bothered anymore , just get the 50 bucks and get another car on the rack . cb
  3. Greetings , another newbie checking in . Anyone else on the board from northern Arizona ? I'm from around the Kingman area . Bob ( clunkerbob )
  4. clunkerbob

    1979 Brat carb questions and advice

    Thanks , appreciate the info CB
  5. clunkerbob

    Hello from AZ

    Howdy Arroz from another desertrat . I'm up in the Kingman area and got bitten by the old Subaru bug a few years ago . I saw a nice 82 or 83 Brat on Craigslist down in your area just the other day . Looked pretty decent too . $1600 firm he said he wanted ( but cash talks ) .... I thought about it but have 2 Subie projects as it is . Along with a bunch of old motorcycles , a Mini Cooper S and several others . I'm all full up Newbie here too .... welcome to the fold of misfits . Bob
  6. I just latched onto a nice little '79 Brat project car and the carb is missing . Just pondering if I should I scrounge up an original rebuildable carb or convert to a 28/32 weber ? I have 3 old rebuildable 28/32's laying around the shop but I'm wondering if it may be too big for a 1600 engine ? If I go the weber route should I use the originald old EA71 manifold or get something from another engine that would offer a bit better performance ? I did a search but didnt really find the answer .... but I'm sure some of you guys have been through this before . BTW greetings from Arizona , I'm a new member and own 2 Brats ... an '82 and this '79 I just bought yesterday . Neither are finished up yet but nice rust free AZ cars in need of TLC . The usual story ... sheetmetal excellent but the plastic bits roasted by the heat . The '82 is a runner but I pulled it apart for paintwork and then fell into the gen 1 car . The '79 looks like hell but a very straight body and all the parts are there . It was partially dissasembled by the previous owner but he did a good job of tagging and bagging and didnt destroy the car pulling it apart . Spare tranny , starter and some other bits and pieces . 100'000 miles on the clock . Thanks for any welcome advice . I'll get some pics up when I get my camera charged up . Bob
  7. clunkerbob

    wagon to ute/pickup conversion?

    I have thought of the same thing , nothing super fancy but just to make an nice offroader . It would have to be a 2 door wagon I would think , and all the later models in USA are 4 doors . Maybe later ones in NZ can be found in 2 door models ? I think it could be done without too much hassle if you planned it out and took your time cutting the bodywork . Like to see some pictures of the modifications and how its done myself CB
  8. My '82 Brat GL has no grill door piece over the center light . I dont see any sign of it ever having one either , that , or somebody did a good job of removing it completely . Was that grill door an optional thing or just certain years had it ? Bob
  9. the body looks really straight on it too . just a few small dings from the looks of it . nice car .
  10. yeh , if the system still has pressure its probably OK . The Jap compressors usually hold up really well . If the internals of the old compressor exploded , you better flush the system or you'll suck the metal shavings in the replacement compressor and it wont do it any good . You are supposed to change the dryer too ... but I've reused the old ones sometimes with no problem if money is tight . Definately change it if the compressor grenaded . c-bob
  11. yeh , 12 bucks you cant go wrong with that price . I believe I paid 32 bucks for a new one for my Brat . rxleone , I used to get Repco Deluxe brake pads from Worldpac in Southern CA when I had a shop there ... that was , lets see , about 5 years ago at least . Before I moved to Arizona , I must have used hundreds of them . So they quit making them ? Shame ... I had good luck with them over the years . I think they came out of Australia , right ? Ive used Ferodo too . And Lucas/Jurid ... were good , but they black dusted like hell on the wheels and some customers complained ok , sorry , back to water pumps cb
  12. Up until I retired , I wrenched on British cars and we used a lot of Quinton Hazel parts . Usually suspension stuff , wheel bearings etc . Was always good quality and no problems . Used a lot of Repco brake pads and parts too and they were top notch . I think they were made in the U.K. or Australia at the time . But that was a couple years ago and who knows where its sourced now ... LOL . It should say on the box . I'd tend to trust it though . I bought a brand new W/P a couple months ago , made in Japan and it had the stamped impeller .... was a bit skeptical but it worked fine . Like GD says the originals are cast . Before you slap it on ... compare the old and new pumps . Sometimes the pulley is pressed on the shaft at a slightly different height and the crank and alternator pulleys dont align up with it right . Not by much , maybe 3/32 to 1/8" but just enough to throw things off . C-Bob
  13. 1982 Brat GL 4 speed , Carter carb . 285K on engine . I've gotten a steady 23 MPG since I got it a while back . Mixed driving , including some offroad in 4WD . I dont baby it , but I dont usually thrash it hard either so I dont know if thats good or bad really .... I'm OK with the mileage that I get . cBob
  14. clunkerbob

    1982 4WD Brat Coil Springs

    did you mean ea81 and ea 82 springs interchange ? I did a search on the forum b4 posting but nothing comes up helpful on the Brat springs situation . I've heard they arent too expensive new from the dealer .... its just we dont have one out here in my area thus the interchange try . And the dealer websites are hopeless to try and order from . Maybe next trip to Las Vegas I can call ahead and pick some up .... pretty sure they have a dealership up there . I was looking for a shortcut substitute through local parts houses . hehe . They dont show a listing for a Brat ... and if they dont have an exact year and model they are completely lost . tnx , cBob
  15. My front springs are sagged to the max and the adjusters are all the way out . I need new coils . What do you suggest ? I want it up higher than stock but not riding right up against the bumpstops . I'd rather get new than experimenting with junkyard stuff . Somebody uses Honda Accord springs but wont that be too much tension ? I'd like to get them at NAPA if possible . Theres no Sube dealer out here or I'd go there . What should I look for ? 4WD , no A/C , winch or anything heavy up front . Aftermarket steel front bumper but it cant weigh that much Tx , Bob
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