Bash

I have the trans torn down in my 86. I woke up last night thinking about a thin metal part I didn't see when I was getting parts ready to put back together. So this morning I found it, Crap It looked bent up so I worked about 45 min to get it to where I thought it should look. Guess what! It was supose to be how I found it. Big Bozo move.:-\

What is a mudd boat?

Has any one used permatex 3h to seal the case?

Has any one used permatex 3h to seal the case?

Thanks found it.

Thanks found it.

I used my VW crank gear puller to pull off the bearings. Worked like a champ.

Found the 10mm bolt. case split. the passenger side stub bearing race was sitting on top of the bearing when I split the case. I put the race in the case half it wouldn't go in without tapping it, don't think the case is pounded. I'll put in new one and see how it goes.

Found this post looking fror trans help. can someone put an arrow pointing to where the 10mm bolt is, that needs to be removed to take off the back part of the trans. Thanks

Found this post looking fror trans help. can someone put an arrow pointing to where the 10mm bolt is, that needs to be removed to take off the back part of the trans. Thanks

There is a lock, it's just to the right of the cv joint in the pic. I'll turn to see if that helps. Spliting the case looks doable for me I read Goyals post on changing the seal. Will the pinion need to be reshimed if I change the stub axle bearings? Play in the pinion bearing. Would this be a bad bearing or a bad case?

That's why I can't find a brat, you have them all.

Clutch feels good, nice and smoothe. no noise when i step on it or let off. The stub has lots of movement. I don't see three bolts. Here's the side of trans.

The things I have done. New brakes all around. new front wheel bearings both sides. New pass side drive shaft. both ball joints. replaced a bad e brake cable. 2" lift I still have noise from the front end only when I accelerate, at 15 miles per hour the sound starts. like a rubbing but not a tire. As long as I stay on the gas it makes the noise. when I let off nothing no sound at all. Should I start looking for a new trans, Or check into replacing bearings? it's a 86 DL 5 speed D/range.

Gas welder. Low heat, not blowing holes the wire just curls up. Grounded to the hatch, I took off some paint then cliped on the ground. The stud welder is an eastwood. I never use brake cleaner to prep.

I have an 86. My mig is a hobart. I did grind off paint, then used a metal prep cleaner. Nothing sticks.

Is the rear hatch made of steel? nothing sticks to the metal. dent pulling studs wont stick I tried to mig weld them on that failed. any suggestions on how to work the metal.

Your set up doesn't use blocks? So if I just add 2" blocks it will center the wheels?

How could the rear be moved back to look right? My 2" lift is close as well.

The wires are cut and spliced by The PO. Anyhoo the fan runs with the key on. Is the rad switch grounding or switching 12v . I was thinking of grounding to the chassis to one blade of the rad switch then to the ground wire of the fan with 12 volts to the power wire. Any other suggestions.

After reading post about doing the gasket. It turned out easier than I thought. Removed all bolts droped the pan turned it left it just fell out. put it back the reverse. I didn't have to lift the engine at all. Don't know if this is old news. I didn't see a post on this.

Search Miles fox on utube He has great vids on all this stuff. I dont know how to post a link or I would.

Why can't the two belts be put on at the same time, with the driver cam dot up and the pass side down with the fly wheel mark lined up? what does turning the engine do?

Started out as just a front engine reseal. Cam, crank and oil mounting gasket. Got every thing back started the engine smooth good oil pressure no leaks. then no pressure and noise from valve train. The question is on the oil pump there is a letter B stamped on the two moving parts do they have to be on the same side together or dose it matter?

I have read past HH post still have questions. When I take off the cable on my 87 GL 4WD, do I need to hook a return spring to the clutch cable? Do I need to secure the top of HH part where the cable was disconected? What is the correct bleeding LF RR RF LR OR RR FL LR RF If I keep the HH conected, do I need to hold down the clutch then pump the brakes?