WoodsWagon

Tap it with a hammer and see if you can poke a hole through.

Since the piece that has cracked goes between the turbo and the throttle body, it might be time to look into a intercooler upgrade. You'll end up replacing that part with new hoses to go to the intercooler. I think the stock intercooler off a Forester XT fits fairly well, but check legacycentral for info. With oil on top of the block there I would check the oil pressure switch for leakage. It's down behind the power steering pump and they can start weeping oil through the switch. What you're seeing all over the turbo may be oil mist blown back by air from a leak further forward on the engine.

Go aftermarket. Stinger, Electromotive, MoTec, HalTech whatever flavor you prefer. They pull an extra 20hp+ out of the EJ25 with an aggressive tune. Premium fuel required at that point. Later on if you go forced induction it's easy to re-tune to match.

Knock sensors are pretty cheap and easy enough to replace. I've bypassed one just to get the car driveable, but it knocked terribly when I tried to pull a trailer with it. So it's worth it just to put a new one in to protect the engine from damage.

Also it might be good to clean out the IAC thoroughly if it's still having stalling issues after you figure out the neutral switch.

What fluid is it leaking and how fast? If coolant and it's not a stream pissing out, then chuck a bottle of "subaru coolant conditioner" in. It's a stop leak product. If you're thinking of replacing the engine anyway, doesn't hurt to try and it might buy you a few more years of use. If it's a slow oil leak, tossing in a quart every couple gas stops is cheaper than fixing it.

If a front CV broke it will do the same. Does the speedometer go up when she revvs it in gear? Does it drive if she shifts it into 4x4? If so, probably a busted front CV or stripped hub.

Plenty of goodwill and money in the Toyota brand. It's a consolidation, not a re-launch of a new brand. Scion was meant to be down-market from Toyota as a cheap entry level car, so if the models are moved across to the Toyota badge arguably they will gain prestige. Bunch of marketing hooey anyhow.

I would leave the neutral switch wire ungrounded until you get a clutch switch hooked up.

The block is the part least worth worrying about. If you're going to beat on the engine, the rod bearings are always the first thing to go. Put your efforts toward oiling, rods, and bearings. The n/a 2.5l blocks don't split cylinders until more than 20psi of boost goes through them. Plenty of power to be made with a tunable ECU. The VW sandrail guys pull a fair bit more out of the stock subaru engine with an aftermarket EMS.

I'd replace the bolts too. An extra 1/2 turn is a lot of torque above the 90ish ft lbs they normally end up torqued at. They aren't TTY under the normal torque spec but crank them that much further and they probably yielded. Lucky you didn't pull the threads out of the block!

Was it doing it before you replaced the MAF? The dieing out could be an unmetered air leak anywhere between the MAF and the heads, or it could be a bad signal coming from the MAF. What's the code reader live data for MAF flow at idle? You could compare that to a known good car. If you replaced all the hoses, could one have not been clamped tight enough and it slipped partway off under boost? I know gen1 EJ's would stall coming up to a quick stop if the clutch switch wasn't working, but gen 2's they changed the tuel cut coast to idle fueling strategy and eliminated the switch.

Ok, so I was right the MAP is only for the a/t cars. Codes for that combined with the P1702 means you used the harness out of an auto trans car. You need to put an extra ground pin in the ECU connector to switch it to manual trans mode. I think it's pin 50, but compare the pinouts of the a/t vs m/t ECU connector and find where the extra ground is. Do that and a lot of your issues may resolve themselves.

Hate to break it to you but there's drum brakes inside the disc rotors at the back for the parking brake. They can make metal grinding noises, especially if the shoes get rusty and the friction material delaminates. How well does the parking brake work? As far as bleeding brakes to change the fluid, it's a recommended practice, but good luck getting the bleeders open on an older New England car without the aid of a torch, hammer, and 6pt sockets. Often times it's not worth the trouble. Plus you end up changing the brake fluid when the rear brake lines rust out over the gas tank, so why do it before then?

Yup, had a friend that shorted out an 02 WRX ecu in a pond to the point that the engine stopped running. Stupid ECU's mounted lower than the intake! Washed all the mud out of it in a brook, tossed it on the dash of my truck with the defroster on, and had the car back running in half an hour. It did smoke the traces off the board for one of the EVAP solenoids, but a Tactrix cable eliminated that code. It ran fine for a couple years after that. I used to take my lifted subaru swimming all the time in fresh water. Other than wheel bearings pretty frequently, no ill effects. Deep water too, had it in rivers where the water was coming sideways over the hood. Check the rear diff oil level, if it's overfilled it's got water in it.

I would doubt the MAP would do it. 95 is a MAF based fuel injection system and the MAP is for the a/t and evap. A over sensitive knock sensor sure will though. It pulls all the timing and the engine runs like a dog. Try unbolting the knock sensor and relocating it to the bracket the battery ground cable attaches to on top of the starter, or whatever remote but still grounded spot you have available on your swap. If it runs fine, then get a new knock sensor and follow the clocking and torque spec installation instructions to bolt it back in the right spot. A dieing coil or ignition module can do that too.

It could also be fuel leaking into the intake from a failing fuel pressure regulator or a leaking injector. Pull the vac hose off of the regulator and see if it's wet with gas inside.

Pull the sparkplugs and leave the key off. Then use a jumper wire on the starter to crank the engine for 20 seconds. Put the plugs back in and fire it up. That avoids having to unplug any other connectors on the motor. Just make sure it's in park or neutral before you crank it. Removing the plugs takes off most of the load on the dry bearings because it isn't fighting compression.

What's your fabrication ability? It's possible to put a ford Escort distributor in the 90-98 EJ22 heads and modify the intake to put a carburator on. You could use a 2.5l shortblock under those heads if you needed more power. The newer subaru engines come with a 4spd transmission they are electronically controlled so you need wiring for that. The older EA 3spd auto was all mechanical but only fits the EA series engines. You could use an EA-EJ adapter plate to run the older trans. If you want power and simplicity, a VW Type 4 engine with a carb conversion and auto trans is about as basic as it gets....

If it's obviously leaking, yes. A little bit of damp grundge around it is normal, but liquid oil is not. Otherwise, leave it alone as it's easy to mis-install the new one and have it leak. Use a metal oil separator plate, plastic ones are junk. Check the clutch release fork for cracks in the cup that the pivot ball rides in.

If you flood the engine with gas and cant get it started, then let it sit a while, the fuel residue in the cylinders can glue the rings into the pistons so you have very low compression. If the spark plugs were nasty, that could have contributed to the hard starting and flooding issue. I would pour a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder, crank the engine over for a few turns, and put new spark plugs in. It may well fire right up. Then let it warm up fully, feed it 1/3 of a can of seafoam through the PCV valve into the intake, shut it off for 15 minutes, and then take it out and flog it. Hard acceleration followed by hard engine braking, repeatedly. That may unglue the rings. I've gotten lucky before. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it, and see what the pressure does when you shut the engine off. You may have a leaking fuel pressure regulator (check for gas inside the vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator) or a leaking injector. Either would contribute to the flooding and cylinder washdown problem you've got. Could you provide pics of the PCV hose setup you have on the engine? If the wrong hose system is used you can get too much suction and it will pull oil mist out of the crankcase instead of just fumes. Do you have an aftermarket shortened oil pan on it?

Yup have to do that all the time with rusty bolts, you're essentially doing what you'd normally do when cutting new threads with a tap or die. When those nuts are so rusted that you're pounding undersized sockets onto them to try and get enough bite, you have to escalate to heat. Before I got an inductive heater, I'd use the oxy/acetylene torch with a welding tip to put focused heat on. Dangerous game to play with open flame on a rusty gas tank, but theoretically the fuel vapor concentration in the tank should be above the flashpoint. Still, would not recommend it especially with inductive heaters on the market that can make a rusty bolt glow red without open flame. Also comes in handy for loosening brake line flare nuts without burning the paint off the line. Mini-ductor is one brand. Fluxeon is what I use, and you wind your own coils to suit out of 10g copper wire.

Headgaskets have to match the bore of the block. Timing belt tensioner bracket bolts to the block, so you can change it if you'd prefer to run the old style tensioner with the seperate cylinder instead of the one integrated into the arm. It's a year change design thing, not a 2.2l vs 2.5l. What year EJ22 heads? Why not run the complete 97 EJ25? There should be plenty of space in a Doka engine bay for the DOHC heads.

What about an EA 4eat with a later 4.44 ring and pinion? With a good cooler the torque converter can make up for much of the lack of gearing.

I've had 3 different SPFI Ea82's up to 8100-8200 rpm where they tapered off into valve float. No rev limiter. One was a 92, one was a 88, and one was a 89. There's no real point to having a rev-limiter if it's not making power anywhere near to it's max rpm's and there's little likely hood of it being hurt by a momentary over-rev.