ron917

The builder of my rebuilt engine stated that clogged cam passages was the most likely cause of my camshaft seizure. They said that they see it often on these engines.

Here's the threads I mentioned earlier. They contain good info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80226&highlight=axle+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75739&highlight=axle

This one? http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/diagnosing-abs.html

Whatever you do, DO NOT push down on the wrench plus cheater pipe with all your weight. When it lets loose (or something breaks), you will smash your face on the car and break your nose. Personal experience talking here.

The nut is 32mm. I used a 3/16" pin punch, but there is probably a small range of sizes (inch and metric) that will work. There are several good threads on this board about axle replacement. I have them bookmarked on my home PC, I can post the links if no one does it before I get home this evening.

No way to adjust ignition timing, the computer does it. However, if the knock sensor is bad, the computer will grossly retard the timing. The car will have no power at all (feels like a plugged cat). Knock sensor is a common problem (they crack), but it will throw a code and set the CEL. It can be intermittent, but when it's acting up, the CEL should be lit.

It went 13,000 miles after the HG job. I was driving, heard some chirping, then a thud, and the engine just quit. I knew the sprocket broke because a chunk of it was sitting on the block. After getting towed home, I found I couldn't turn that camshaft with a wrench. I don't know exactly what happened. The oil level was fine, and only 2,000 miles on the oil and filter. There had been some occasional rod knock (I thought it was piston slap at the time) in the days leading up to the cam seizure. I ordered a rebuilt and sent the old engine back as a core without opening it.

I had a cam sprocket shatter on my '99 Outback. The camshaft had seized - same one, the passenger side intake. I really hope that didn't happen to your engine. Try turning that cam with a wrench, you'll know if it's seized.

Oh, man, that sucks! I feel bad for you, after all that hard work!

The issue of cheap rebuilt axles is not limited to Subaru. I was in an auto parts store one day, and a guy came in carrying two axles for a Honda of some sort. He got into a very heated discussion with the manager because it was the third time he was changing axles in 4 months, and this time he wanted new ones instead of the rebuilt crap he was getting.

I have a similar kit, not made by Motive, but some British company. It's basically a bottle with hoses that you pressurize with your spare tire. It came with an assortment of adapters that are nothing but brake reservoir caps with a hole in them. To use them, you move a hose barb thingy (it has a nut and rubber gaskets) from cap to cap. The instructions say that if no adapter fits, just buy a replacement cap for your car, drill a hole and you are all set. It worked well for my Volvos, but I never purchased spare caps for my Subarus. I need to do that someday, it would have prevented me from running the master cylinder dry last Saturday. The point is, you can make your own adapter. Just get a spare cap.

No, you're right, you can't get to the mount bracket bolts on the engine without lifting it a bit. In my case, I bolted one of the mounts on to the engine backwards when I swapped them on to the rebuilt engine. I didn't notice until I tried to lower the engine/trans combo after mating them. I had to raise the engine a few inches to unbolt and install the mount correctly. After that, the mounts studs dropped into the crossmeber slots with just a little bit of wiggling. If you didnt' remove the mounts from the engine, you won't have the problem that I had. There's a lot of wiggle room in the rear tranny mount. Like davebugs said, you probably have it shifted and need to shove it all back in place. I removed the pitching stopper rod (a.k.a. dogbone) before pulling the engine and left the tranny supported by a jack. That's what the FSM said to do, but I doubt it would make a difference. As long as it's out of the way now when you're trying to shift everything around.

If you had the engine mounts off, make sure you put them back on the right way. I know for a fact you can put them on the engine backwards, and the studs won't line up with the crossmember slots when you lower the engine. My biggest suggestion: get a helper who can watch and guide the engine as you try to swing the swing into place. My son helped me get the rebuilt engine into my '99 Outback (it's his car now). I couldn't have done it without his help. Once I got him involved, the engine and trans (auto) mated up in one shot. I also used a load balancer that allowed me to adjust the angle of the engine. That helped a lot. You might already have one, but didn't mention it, so I don't know.

My son's '99 Outback Wagon (formerly mine) has normal bolts with washers (at the head to capture the spring) instead of those shoulder bolts. That allows the springs to be snugged up real tight without disassembling to add washers. I bought the car used, so I assume it did not come from the factory that way.