87.5ea82txt

Right on. Thanks for the input, guys. I haven't been on here in a long time since I parked my rusty XT a few years ago. I'm assuming the 2.2 loyales never came with a dual range transmission, correct?

I found a guy willing to sell me his 1998 legacy wagon with 164k on the dash for $1100. I haven't seen it yet, but he said it runs and drives. It started running rough, so he took it to auto zone and the code came back oxygen sensors. He said the rear brake line started to leak where it comes through the inside in the back and he pinched it off, so it only has front brakes at the moment. Another thing he mentioned is that the shifter is very loose and sloppy, but it does shift fine. I'm thinking worn out shift bushings. I'm an ea subaru guy and know nothing about newer legacys. Would this be a decent buy and what advice would you give me when looking at it?

Too late... he just sold it. I asked, and he said it wasn't overheating. Just leaking. Oh well. Maybe I'll get lucky and eventually something with a dual range might come along.

Long time, no Subaru. My Xt has been out for the count for the last few years with a blown headgasket and severe underbody rust. I saw this loyale on Craigslist for $400. Dude says it needs a water pump. Should I be wary of a blown head gasket? Being single range, would this car be decent for mild offroading if I install a 2" lift and 28" tires? (I already have the lift and wheels+tires) https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5836457592.html Anyone interested in buying a rusty intercooled 87.5 Xt awd turbo with $2,500 worth of new parts? It was my daily before I parked it.

That is crazy! Hell, I usually leave the keys in mine. Seems most people have a hard time opening the doors anyways. When I was in college, my roommate had his mustang stolen. A few months later he found it parked at a gas station. He just got in it and drove it home lol.

Front struts are easy to replace. Remove the outer sway bar bolts, lower strut bolts, then the strut tower bolts. You can get spring compressors for around $50. You should be able to change them in an afternoon with plenty of beer breaks. Use a jack to raise and lower the arms while you are disassembling/reassembling to make it easier to line up the holes.

Check the blower motor. If it is good, you may need to replace the set of resisters or the solenoid for fan speed 4.

There is a line on the intake that connects to the valve cover. Could I just put a small filter on the valve cover or will it effect performance if it is not connected to intake?

I've searched every junkyard, every craigslist ad... in my part of the country, we have no ea82 Subarus:(

This is kind of what I'm working with at the moment.

Ah, thanks for the link. Seems to be more reasons to do it than to not. Only thing is, I'll need to figure out where to incorporate a blow off valve. I saw a 2.5" adapter pipe, but it would be silly to have all kinds of different pipe sizes. Maybe I could just weld it to the steel pipe that I'm using now.

I've seen people put the maf right before the throttle body. I've read that the added volume between the two from an intercooler can cause issues with throttle response, but wasn't sure if going from a cool vacuum to hot pressure would have a negative effect on the maf's readings or longevity. I have a thunderbird intercooler connected directly to the turbo and about two feet of 3" piping from its outlet to the throttle body, so it's not a huge volume of air. I did a search for custom intake piping and found a site that had these adapters that you could drill a hole in the side of a pipe and insert a rubber grommet and your barb adapter into it to connect various sized vacuum lines. I'll have to measure the maf and turbo inlet, but I believe the maf is 3" and the turbo 2.25, so I may get a 3" elbow with a 6" leg and use a reducer hose to connect to the turbo.

I also haven't replaced the pcv valve or cleaned the egr valve. Would that have a noticeable impact on performance?

I cut some material away on the end of the hose and used a dremel to smooth out the inside so I could slide the hose a little further down on the turbo inlet. I also used a hose clamp instead of the wire one so I could get a wider grip on the hose to help keep it sealed. I guess it will have to do for now... I fired it up and it runs much better now, but still has a slight miss only noticeable at idle.

Ok I think I found the problem! I removed the rubber intake pipe that goes between the maf and the turbo inlet and discovered a large crack around where it clamps to the turbo. I've kind of been wanting to replace it with a shorter pipe to make room for the air filter so I remove the 90° elbow I have between the filter and the maf. The only issue I see is going to be able to make the ports for the three small hoses that connect to it in various places. Do you know how I should go about doing this?

I disconnected the boost gauge yesterday to rule out a leak from that, and I broke the thin plastic line from it being old and hard. I believe it was at around -3psi....I think. Would less vacuum indicate a leak? I have new plugs that I will put in here as soon as the engine cools down. It did seem like it was just one cylinder that was missing, but wasn't very apparent until I put it in gear and started driving first thing in the morning, then it would start firing once it got warm enough to move the temperature gauge. Once warm, it runs fairly smooth on/off boost while I run though the gears, but lacks power and tends to stumble when cruising at 30mph around 2200rpms. The plug wires are old, but still look ok. I'm going to order some anyways. After I put the plugs in, Ill disconect the wires from the maf and see if that changes anything. If I disconect the maf from the intake pipe it will just die.

When I fitted the intercooler a few years back, I used crappy rubber hoses at first before cutting expensive nylon ones and sometimes one would pop off under boost and the engine would stutter badly. It's doing the same thing, and that's why I feel that it's not getting the airflow that the maf is saying it is.

I did a compression test not to long ago and all cylinders produced similar pressure. I have a boost gauge attached and does not seem to flutter. Are you suggesting creating a vacuum in the lines? The car starts up right away, but misses badly. It definitely seems to be running rich and I have noticed a decrease in my mileage. I'm not too familiar with the wiring issue you mention. What should my o2 voltage be?

Lately my 87.5 xt has started running like crap, especially when cold. It seems like I have an air leak, but I can't seem to find a cracked or disconnected vacuum line. Not really sure what to now. Should I pull the spider manifold and look for bad lines under it? Could my maf just be dirty? Maybe some other culprit that I haven't considered?

More pictures! I'm trying to get ideas for my xt. It's lifted 2" and I have a set of 215/75-15's that are going on soon as I drill the hubs. The bumper overhang is biggest drawback and I was pondering on removing it and replacing it with one big skidplade made up of several small panels that would wrap around the front, and extend down underneath the engine. Since the rails underneath are rotten, I was thinking of running tubes from where the lower arms connect to the rear of the car to provide strength.

I ended up returning that radiator and they sent me one that was well secured, not like the first one that was just thrown in a box. Anyways, it was in fact a single row even though they advertised it as a double. Nonetheless, it cools just fine even on the hottest of days. I followed loyal 2.7's writeup on using the temp switch he mentions and it keeps the gauge right at the half way mark.

Here's a nice frosty creek crossing.

I seem to do quite a few of struts and need to buy some spring compressors. I see a lot of brands and styles and was wondering which work best for the ea82 struts.

Thanks for your reply Gloyale. Your probably right. They may just be the same part. I should probably call and ask to make sure, though.

I'm looking at front 4wd gl kyb struts and I keep coming up with different part #'s. Some are listed as being for 85-86 mfr#234046 and 234047. For 87 on up Im getting mfr#W0133-1616125 and 1616124. I'm not really sure which one I should be looking at. Was there a change in the strut design in 87?