Starkapopolis

Hi all, my 91 Leg LS auto has been running great lately. This morning, at 5:45 am on my way to work, as I pulled off the interstate, the car lost power, the engine was still running, I could rev the engine, but I had no power, like it had been kicked into neutral. I checked the gearshift, it was in drive. I tried it in 3rd and 2nd. Still no push. Pulling onto the shoulder I looked under the engine and had what I think is oil pouring out from under the engine block. It was dark and I was cold and running late, so I parked it and hitched to work. My car is still on the shoulder and I was hoping someone could relieve me that it's most likely a cracked hose or something that is going to cost less than $12. probably not - because I'm being punished for not starting my Christmas shopping yet. Any ideas? Car has 122k mi and didn't have any problems prior like this except that I thought I smelled burning oil the last two days... brian, Tucson, AZ

Thanks all. Enough people have mentioned that these long-standing problems are usually something small like a loose wire. I'll try pulling a wire off an injector and then hunt for anything loose elsewhere. dreaming of a "smoooth operator", brian

I like the idea of swapping injectors, though I hope it's a loose wire somewhere. Anyone have ez diretions on where the injectors are and how to swap them?

only code coming up now is 14 - fuel inj 1 still running rough and hard shift (Auto trannie) while accelerating.

I disconnected the battery while at work and drove it home at the end of the day. the engine light was off for half the drive (15 min) but quickly popped back up. I agree with Glen's guess on the wiring. Since it was sharp as a top with the new ecu but then registered some trouble codes, it leads me to believe i should stop replacing parts and start looking for a good electrician in Arizona. Preferably Tucson, but elsewhere would be okay. any leads? Brian

Thanks for the ideas. Since the ECU is recently replaced, I didn't think I'd need to reset it, but I'll try unhooking the battery. Also, I just happen to have a 3rd MAF and will try that one as well. Then pull the fuse and let you know if any of that works. If none of that works, I'll consider turning to a mechanic. Rough on the road, thanks, Brian

OK, for the past year I've had an engine light. At first it was code 41- A/F learning control. I replaced the MAF and things improved. Then it came back and was revving and idleing on it's own. A few months ago it started a new trick - going down the interstate holding steady at a high speed (50-80) it would start to run very rough and would only get smooth when I accelerated, pushing the engine into a higher gear. A mechanic checked it out and said everything was firing perfectly and he thought it was the o2 sensor. Replaced that from the jy. Slight improvement. You guys suggested it was the ECU. I got a good used one of those at the jy and immediatly everything went away - for about 3 days. Now the problems are back. I'm getting three codes right now: 41 - a/f learning control, 32 - o2 sensor, and 14 - injector 1 misfiring or emitting a bad signal. The used parts came off a similar car with only 60K so I figured they were still good. When the new ECU went in it was like a new car but now we're back to the drawing board. Is this a doozy for the dealer or does anyone have a clue what I can do next? 91 Legacy LS automatic. 125K mi. Thanks in advance. Brian

6 months ago i replaced the air compressor for my pneumatic struts in my 91 leg ls. i guess i didn't put the screws and bolts in tight enough on the cover plate underneath it 'cause last week hauling down the highway i heard a very expensive sound from the front left and then a snapping of metal and a glimpse in the rear view mirror of a hunk of metal going under the wheel of a semi behind me. when i pulled over and saw it was just the mud / brush guard for the compressor. i just broke off the remaining brace and went on my way. is this part worth hitting up the local jy or is a little mud / rain / dirt going to affect the strut compressor?

I'd go along with that. On my 91 Leg LS, the key and driver's side lock got worn down so bad it didn't work in the ignition any more. The last owner only replaced the ignition with a new lock core and key but none of the door locks. So now I have a totally smooth key that is about the size of a hanger that works in driver's side door and trunk and a seperate new key for the ignition. No key works for the passenger door or to lock the trunk. Someday maybe I'll replace 'em all but for now I like my antiquated system. In answer, yes, you should only need one key to open all locks. Brian

Before you go changin things, make sure you have a problem. I replaced 3 of my 4 air struts and the compressor as well. The struts didn't need it but the compressor did. In your case, if you are only hearing a hissing sound after the car is turned off , that's normal. It will release some pressure about 10 seconds after the car is turned off. It will also flatten out some. Make sure something is wrong before spending the bucks. Brian

Test drove it today. It has been garaged all its life and paint is premo. Interior is excellent. Only two minor dings on body. Engine looks good and clean. It drove well but suprising that I felt less pickup with the 97 vs. my 91 Leg LS. Is 2.2 EJ22 supposed to be much faster over a 2.5? Once I talk it over with the mrs. tonight, I'll make my decision. Also comes with factory remote, a new bra and a cargo mat. Turns out it is not a limited ed, after all. I just love that tingly feeling when I'm excited about finding a good deal on a good car... until it turns out that the tingling is just my foot being asleep and can't make it to the brake on time. Brian

I'm looking at add my second Soobie today. It's a 97 outback wagon with 107k miles. The timing belt was replaced at 105 along with other major maintenance. It's a single owner and he had all work done at local dealer. It's got a new fuel filter, air, fact alternator recalled and replaced, 15k y.old tires, o-rings replaced for oil leak. Said he's getting 25 mpg city / 30 hwy. Brakes are good. vin: 4s3bg6851v7647917 Carfax free info lists it as a limited. Ad didn't say if it was or not. Seller is asking $6200 which sounds like a good price to me - below KBB even for "good" condition. Any concerns? Hopefully happily buying if wife can be convinced.

awhile back i was having issues with my MAF. Code 41 was coming up and real rough idle. I replaced MAF with a $6 used unit from Ebay. Happy days for a few months, but then engine light and code 41 came up again. Josh suggested my computer was having issues and hinted the problem might be there instead. My question: should I try another used MAF on the internet ($80 this time) and give it another shot, or is there some other way to determine if this problem is the computer and not the part? Other than the eng lit being on all the time (after clearning the memory), the car drives mostly great, just rough idle at cold start sometimes.

Took the car to a good mechanic. They ran a full diagnostic test on everything air / fuel related. Everything checked out except the MAF sensor. It's good piece of mind to have the second opinion when I was already leaning there. I'm now looking for the cheapest / best option to replace. Auto parts stores sell them reman for $210. I think I saw one at jy for 30 or less - any harm in going the cheaper route ? I can always just replace it if it goes out as well..

Thanks! I'll check that out and keep updating. (today, took the wife to a very fancy brunch for a rare treat. On the way home, engine got sick and we sputtered black smoke for most of 12 miles in 100-degree heat. kinda took the edge off the romantic morning.) brian

Ran the diagnostic test this morning. Code 41 came up again and code 23 returned after a month vacation. 41 is nothing new - unsolved problem, but 23 is Air Flow Sensor - same as MAF I'm guessing? I plan on looking for a cheap used one at the local yards today unless anyone else has a better idea what could be causing the erratic idleing. Brian

Well, happy days are over. Problem is progressing. It runs great for about 30 minutes then while driving down the road with the pedal held consistently, the engine suddenly drops rpm. It is a shocking thing to have happen, and I automatically take foot off gas. When I do, the rpms lower, then rise, then lower, then rise. It's like someone is feathering the gas but it's not me. My only remedy now is turn on hazard lights, floor it until the engine catches and it surges ahead 15 feet, coast until it catches again, etc. Then finally when I can pull into a parking lot, turn it off and let it rest with ignition off for 5-10 minutes. Then all is well again. I've read some similar posts and wonder if I should try changing the MAF sensor? Anything else? Thanks - Brian

These are happy days. I read the article on high octane gas in another thread. It reminded me that I filled up recently with 91 octane thinking it might help clean out the engine. That's when it started running worse. Today I filled it up with good ol' 87 and she purrs like a kitten, for today anyway. No engine light, power when I want it, and no stalling in the middle of an 8 lane intersection. Brian

Replaced what I thought was the IAC, but it wasn't that hard to replace so I doubt I got the right part. Parts store called it a bypass air console or something. Anyway, while driving around town, I stopped to put some air in rear tires, they were very low with a slow leak, and as soon as I did that, guess what? The engine light went into all clear mode! I don't know if this is even possible, but could having low tires tell the ECU that the car is having to use too much power to move so it thinks there's a problem with how much air to mix with the fuel? It sounds like a long shot to me but the light hasn't come on since in two days of driving.

Isn't owning a subaru a sure-fire bet the owner is in store for some issues? Yesterday, on my commute to work, engine was cold and light was blinking away in D-mode, as usual. When I gas it, the rpms go down until I get up to 15-20 mph. Then, during lunch, I looked at the blinking check eng light and it was flashing in 1/2 sec intervals!!!! All clear mode! (I routinely clear the ECU lately - hoping this would happen.) Instantly, I disconnected the black and green wires and the light WENT OFF!! of course, it came back on a hour later, but I see this as a start? Maybe it just took awhile for the brake cleaner and all it's gunk to get outta the way of the IAC? 'cept for the morning drive, seems to run fine, just an intermittent eng lit.

Sounds like the same thing happening to my 91 Legacy LS. See Rev n Stall on this board for similar discussion. Brake cleaner sprayed into the IAC valve may help. Good luck. IAC valve is electronic junction with smaller hose probably coming into engine on passenger side. It's going to be close to where main air intake clamps onto engine block.

The saga continues... Replaced the PVC valve today. That was cheap and easy and seemed to help some. I noticed the hoses have a good buildup of gunk on the insides. I tried cleaning one out but assume all of them are booger-lined. I disconnected the hose going into the IAC valve and sprayed a good 4-5 long shots of brake cleaner in there. Turned it over a few hours later and ran ECU in d-check mode. Code 41 is still coming up on test drive, but the problem seems to have gone away mostly for now. It still revs a little in short intervals. When I turn on A/C max or normal it jumps up some. I'm going to try and drive it to work tomorrow and see if it acts different cooler in the morning. Maybe I can just put a smiley sticker over the engine light? Once this is over, next up is window tinting, new visor (broken), alignment, and playing with non-responsive front air struts.

I haven't driven it much since I don't want to damage something any worse. After I cleared the codes, I started it in d-check, it still revs some and rpms slow down but it doesn't stall lately. When I did test drive it, I give it gas and there is a delay in the response from the engine, like it isn't getting the air / gas that it needs for a moment. My plan is to check the PVC valve 'cause it's easy, then spray some brake cleaner on the IAC. Will let you know what happens. Any other guesses I'd love to hear it. btw - I just bought the Chilton's, this is getting serious! Brian

Thanks Josh, I reset the ECU, ran it in D-mode. That was a good trick b/c now the only code coming up is 41 - A/F Learning Control. Happy to only replace one thing instead of four, but what the heck is it? Asked at the auto parts store, they didn't help. Any help?