Crazyeights

+1 for anyone that does it:grin: Compared to the SPFI ones I have done, the EJ-EA harness that I am doing for myself now sure seems to have more wire! Thanks to Numchux, GD, and everyone for the great guides and info. Good Luck with your swap!

You could wire in a fuel pump impact switch (might be called an inertia switch) from an 80's or 90's Ford for safety in the event of an accident. They are usually somewhere in the trunk. Very cheap in the junkyard.

My limited understanding of the "Frankenmotor" recipe from reading on this forum is, EJ25D Shortblock (97-98?) EJ22E Dual Port heads (91-94 Legacy) with delta reground roller cams and rockers from a 96-97 EJ22 (optional but a better choice) Multi-Layer dealer only head gaskets to match the block - not the heads. Timing belt components for EJ25D From what I have read, this does create a higher compression engine with more torque that probably will require premium fuel and IS interference. I think some people are still working out problems making them idle correctly. I have NOT built one (yet) so take this for what it's worth:) I have the heads for this already rebuilt and I also had a good 98 Forester EJ25D short block which I stupidly sold for almost nothing before I found out about it:rolleyes:

Scott at SJRLift lists an EJ22-Weber intake. Although I have never used one my experience with his other products is top notch. EJ Weber Manifold

I've had pretty good luck with these. Has anyone else tried them? They are new and priced pretty good. DTA Axles

A voltage drop test is also a good method to troubleshoot high resistance in both the ground and positive sides of circuits like this. It's fast and accurate with a good meter.

If anyone can recreate the Gen 2 "A" bar I would like to have one. Like the one on this members Brat;

I used a 1990 Loyale SPFI setup and followed GD's write up to the letter. You will want to read his article before getting started to make sure you know what parts you will need from the donor car. It is well worth the trouble IMO, however it IS a lot of work. GD's SPFI Conversion

They did make an EA71 in '87 or '88 with hydro lifters as I had one. I parted it for the pistons which are now in my EA81. My question would be why? Although this might be possible it would seem that a hydro EA71 with rebuilt stock lifters and a Delta cam with some head work would make more power for less $$$. The rest of the effort could be spent on a custom fuel system or a nice carb and exhaust.

I would like to have one too as I keep bending or breaking my home made tool. Someone suggested this as a good starting point. What do you think? http://www.handsontools.com/KD-Tools-3510-GM-Steering-Wheel-Puller-Legs_p_7490.html

I have an '83 wagon with a built EA81 and an '87 RX/DR trans. I converted it to 3.9 ratio using parts from an XT6 trans and installed 23 spline front axle stubs while I was at it. It also has the CL diff hooked up and working. With 15" pugs this combination works pretty well on the street and in light snow. Serious off-roaders would probably also have swapped in the 1.59 low range from a D/R. I didn't want to push my luck with too many mods at once as this was my first custom Subaru trans so I left the low range 1.2 for now. Good Luck! It sounds like a cool project.

I don't know if this would work on Subaru balancers or not but I keep a few old serpentine belts around for use as a strap wrench. Wind the belt around the grooves on the pulley 2 or 3 turns (the belt will fold over on itself - use an old belt) and hook it around the nearest thing that will hold it. Reverse to install. Sorry if I am way off base here. Obviously be careful of 2 part balancers so you don't twist the outer ring.

I have a modified RX/XT6 trans in my 83 EA81 wagon and the vacuum chamber and cable fit fine. Is it a gen 1 or gen 2 brat? Good Luck

PTO cable might work. I think this link is for the Muncie style PTO control cable. PTO Cable PDF

I had to lengthen the threaded rod/adjustment portion of the clutch cable to get mine adjusted properly. I didn't know what else to do as it was my first EA81 5 SPD swap, but it's been working great for thousands of miles now.

One of the "Experts" is Jerry. He knows his stuff, he is very helpful and can probably answer all of your questions. Search for user Bratsrus or something like that.

Oil pump o-rings - front crank seal or both?

You can get a used set with or without keys. Any good locksmith should be able to make 1 key work with all the locks for a minimal price. That's how I did mine. I picked up a complete set from P-A-P and had them all matched to my ignition key.

I am currently running Winterforce 205/70R15 tires on Alloy Pugs on my '83 wagon with a FT 4wd trans. So far they do very well in the snow we have had this year in the PNW. I would like to have a second set of street tires to run the rest of the year as I believe the fuel economy would be better like your information shows. Thanks for the info. BTW mine is a Gen II wagon with a 4" lift.

I have a '93 EJ22E from a Legacy auto that doesn't have EGR FWIW

Walker Subaru and many others. The dealer is probably best for these parts.

What about refrigerant oil when converting a system like this? Using an EJ22 comp, 134a R/D with an R12 system (and 134 refrigerant) couldn't you just use ESTER oil to be safe or should you use PAG? Just some thoughts...

Yes, I just switched from a PT D/R to a FT 4WD (both 3.9 ratios). You loose a little in mpg but the gain in traction is well worth it IMHO.

Not all 5 were THAT bad, but bad enough that they couldn't be ground and had to be replaced. It would have run like it was just not well for very long. I'm still working on it and was thinking of having the injectors checked and cleaned before it goes back in after finding and watching this thread. Once again GD THANKS for the info.

Like dirty injectors perhaps? I just finished having the heads done on a '93 Leg Hydro EJ22 with about 140k on it and 5 of the 8 exhaust valves were burnt like those in your pictures. Yes, I know it's an old thread - sorry;)