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asis

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About asis

  • Birthday 01/01/1963

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  • Website URL
    http://www.jbsfixit.com
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    rbl_azis

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Emporia Ks.
  • Occupation
    Small Engine Repair Owner/Operator
  • Vehicles
    86'GL Wagon, 80 BRAT

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USMB is life!

USMB is life! (4/11)

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  1. Thx for the reply scoobie, I did notice the hose on the thermostat housing and was wandering about that. I did suspect that as a source. The problem is not severe and I don't think is head gasket or I would see signs of coolant in oil...yes? It will not over heat unless it gets low on coolant and does not steam or loose coolant when I stop after drive. It also recovers all from reservoir once it cools down. I did have another issue a few weeks ago, a spark plug blew out of the right front. I put a helicoil in it and new plug. That does seem to be the area although it might be the hose as well. So where is the coolant escaping? Exhaust? If there is a galley between the intake and exhaust then any stop leak will not help since compression from engine is pushing back against pressure in coolant system???? I do see residue on cap of res and radiator cap that appeared to be oil..........if I have cracked head....301,875 miles might be the end of my bubaru......
  2. Having a slight temp problem on my 86 gl. Last month or so on 25 mile trip to work one way, it would start to run slightly warmer, temp gauge would creep up a bit and eventually oil pressure drop. When home I could hear the res filling, and some bubbling and gurgling. Yesterday headed to work and half way it overheated, pulled off freeway and found the upper rad hose leaking. Nursed it to NAPA for new hose, cooled it off and made it home. Seemed to be ok until tonight. Showing a bit warm on the gauge again and gurgling under the carb. I once had a xover replaced or sumin like that back when I had a good job and no time to fix myself.... I see the heater hoses come out from under there somewhere also....what am I looking for to fix or replace????
  3. How are the old bearings? Any wear or damage on the trailing arms? I just redid mine on one side but the bearing had worn out so bad the trailing arm was damaged. Took the trailing arm to a machine shop and they would not touch it. Wound up doing it myself since the rig has 301,457 miles on it now, just need to get what I can out of it. You will want a press to install the new bearings which I had access to a cheap one but I am also experienced in installing bearings/bushings and such. Bearings/race (actually is the race for the bearing to ride in) and seals for my one side were 100 bux so...........don't wanna screw em up. If your link is to the same vid as I used, he also had a machine shop press in his new bearings.
  4. Hey GD, good to see you still around! You still at the same place? Well 297,797 miles and at least it is mobile again. It aint right and I will be in the market for a new trailing arm at some point. I have had issues with that left rear since I bought the thing in 1994. It started with the brake locking up at some points, usually when stopping in reverse. Never could figure it out and could not get the hub off for another unknown reason. It would eventually free up and not happen again for some time. About 6 years ago it really started locking up. Tried again to get the hub off with not luck so my daughter and I (she was 6 at the time) headed back from Longview to La Center via the back roads . About 1/3 of the way home the brake self cleared and self destructed. Well at least now I could get the hub off. So I pulled the parts out, slapped the hub back on but had no way to plug the brake line, so the rest of the way was Ebrake only Coming down green mountain into woodland was a bit of a rush, but :cool: we made it home uneventful. Come to find out or theorize at least, that the drum had worn so much that the brake pads would actually bind up in the drum. There was a groove worn in the drum deep enough that the pads would not clear to let it come off. I took out all the brake parts, capped the brake line and went back to motoring. About 4 years ago I was heading to work over the hills on the back roads to Woodland and lo and behold I feel a thunk, scraaaaaaaape, and watch my rear tire pass me off into the woods. I had to look for the tire for about an hour...found it about half mile down the hill in some thickets. I had a set of hubs so had it carried home and put another hub on and have been driving it like that since then. Back to present day, I must have been given one wrong seal. I did get a large and smaller one, but the larger one did not fit "inside" either the outer or inside the nut. The smaller one did fit inside the outer flange, but the outer flange is also flared out likely from driving it with the inner bearing in shrapnel mode. So for now I have no rear seal. I bet it gets me another 2003 miles and I really should think about letting it go to it's final rest. It just does have a lot of sentimental attachment... I bought it the same year I got custody of my son when he was 6, and he is now almost 25. My daughter was nearly born in the passenger seat doing 90 mph passing a hypo getting off the Salmon Creek exit on the way to Southwest For anyone still reading Sorry for the rant but life is a beach at hi tide right now. If anyone has anything running and needs a good parts car, or a good parts car to keep my ole bubaru (my daughter couldn't say subaru until she was 7 ) GD/Rick? if you are in the same place or in the area doing the same thing, maybe I will take drive by? I lost the PM with your number, if even still the same...mine is if you have it?
  5. What year? I assume between 85-89' ? Fronts are cheap and easy to get at least here in the states it seems. The rears on a 4WD are an enigma at this point and I just started a thread asking for some help. FWD, rear bearings are cheap and look easy enough, but I don't think GL's were FWD. If you are going to do the rears on a 4WD...there is a great pictorial in the manual... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226 Do it while you still have something left to recognize lol
  6. So I have a delima, I have found the pictorial for wheel bearing replacement in the manual here, and it was very well done....Kudos... Problem is, I have nothing of my bearings left to go by in find replacements. I have the outer bearing left kind of in tact, the inner bearing is well....shrapnel...the seals are gone or undetectable as seals. I think the inner part of the inner bearing is still stuck on the stub shaft...??? I have checked NAPA, Baxters, and online sources and can not get a straight answer or at least one that is not a bewildered response. All the images show a one piece bearing replacement which looks like it could press in to the hub. My problem with that and question I ask is, is that a sealed unit? Do I still need the seals? Well sure they will sell me the seals too but... The other issue is some are listed for "Rear, inner" but same image...?? I have the arm/hub pulled and pics of what is left on the shaft I can upload at some point. I have just moved and lost my DSL, now on crappy dial up so no network or con to work from but can make it happen. I just need a direction to start in as far as getting the right parts. As all us Subie pilots, I am broke as it is and can not spin my wheels on the wrong parts and such.... Preciate any help here?!?!? Thanx PS I am stuck driving my 82 Toy PU and it is killing me on gas, plus, I have had this Subie since 94 and it is only about 3k from hitting 300k I have got to make that happen
  7. That wood splain it lucy... I just ate another belt too....once I get the beast home I will check that out.... Anything else that might eat a brand new gates belt....???? No squal or squeel or warning just kaput and stop.... FNG,btw were you able to find the replacement idler?
  8. My first time wound up being three times :-\ First I dummied and used the timing marks to line the crank, second time I had the drivers side cam one tooth off...third time was a charm and much faster I also found it easier to move the tensioners up and tighten them down to put the belts on, which was mentioned in my hanes manual.
  9. When aligning the crank using the middle mark, not to be confused with TDC OR the middle timing mark :-\ BTW, would there be an easy way to fish a punch out of the flywheel cover/housng...?
  10. Just watched your videos nicely done and thanks I am in the process of doing belts on an 86' GL. Ole trusty (281k miles on car, engine replaced with 100k engine 30k? ago) simply quit doin 70 on I-5...my first suspicion was timing belts so I popped the disy cap with a spoon and checked for rotor rotation...sure nuff it didn't move.... So got it drug to the house and now have the outer covers pulled off. The drivers side belt is still in one piece but somewhat shredded. As with many of us I have little time and need this rig back in service and little money. I have a set of gates belts due in this afternoon. The inside looks to be mostly dry and free of any signs of oil. The pressure sending unit and or oil filter mounting seem to be leaking which the covers have kept from getting to the belts from my inspection. My preference would be to leave the inner covers on and now just replace the belts and maybe put the outer covers (L and R only minus the center) back with only a couple bolts in each but only if the inner covers are dependent on the same bolts...? I have not pulled the radiator and the A/c is non functional and been without a belt for some time and will not replace it. I used a punch in the flywheel to get the crank pulley bolt loose with little problems...can I trust to do the same to re torque it? What is the torque for that bolt? (Since I can't get an impact in there) I will also be sure to check the tensioner pulleys but haven't yet, will replace if either are bad. Any major fubars in this plan? Suggestions? Other things? TIA
  11. Second one went tonight, out in the dark through the hills to grandma's house in Hockinson Still got the bubaroo GL tho, as long as it lasts it will stay put
  12. Couple of things to be thinking about, put a REAL subie fuel pump on that thing. That generic NAPA one is crap. GD will tell ya to change the carb but it could wait. The right front wheel bearings are another thing to watch. I tightened the hub nut and it quit the noise, but they should be replaced when you can...GD said he would do it for cheap and quick too.. It is a solid rig tho man and so glad it is in good hands.....just not so happy it is not in my hands but, eh life goes on....:-\
  13. Hi ya man glad you did make it here. He has the one that was my avatar :-\ GD I told tarb rat you would take good care of him when and if he needs anything... Couple of details for Ritchie: 1980 BRAT EA-81 Dual range 4-spd
  14. I know you gots a nice rig there now biff, just sold mine for a bit more than you paid less shipping and all the less...and it is driving 35 miles home and will do 90 if they try Still you done well with yours man, I am gonna miss my lil buggy.
  15. Look for a new Portland BRAT richie...told him about the boards here as well and he was pretty excited new owner. BRAT 1 and topper sold. GD look for a message, I told him you had seen the rig and would take care of it and him
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