robmillion

Ok awesome! That was my first suggestion. I'm glad it worked out!

that's definitely possible to do, but i don't think that price is. unless you bring the lock to him... then maybe. it'll probably be $25 to read the lock + $75 (or something) for the service call. the company i work for charges $110 just to show up (which includes the first hour). but even still, $100 is better than $500. it should take between 5 and 15 minutes to decode the lock and cut a new key. we would charge $45 for that, if the lock was brought to us, but i'm in NYC so it's probably cheaper out there. it would usually be $110 for us to go to the customer and do it, unless there was something really screwy that put it over an hour. anyway, if he really told you he would come out to you and charge only 25 bucks, it's probably a scam, so be careful. a lot of shady "scammer locksmiths" will damage your lock (tell you it was already messed up and couldn't be decoded, but attempting to work on it made it completely inoperable) so you have no choice but to replace it. they will use the cheapest parts you can get and charge you even more than the dealer would have. it's actually a huge problem in our industry and gives honest locksmiths a bad reputation. we (locksmiths) are always trying to figure out ways to weed out the scammers and get them out of our business.

you should be able to get the key itself decoded at any automotive locksmith (unless it's really worn). then they can cut you a new key to the original specs. if that doesn't work in the lock, then you have no choice. you will need to have the lock removed and repaired, or replaced. you can definitely get the new ignition lock re-keyed to your current key before it's installed though. the dealer won't be able to do the re-key, but a locksmith could. probably for a bit less than $500 too. i don't know the prices out there, but if i had to do it here it would probably be about $400 including parts, labor, and the re-keying. before you do any of that though, check the glovebox and the owners manual if you still have it. sometimes the dealer writes the lock code in there. it will be a 5 digit number that starts with 3.

yes i believe so, but you may also need a working key to turn the cylinder to the open position (or pick it). these locks have wafers, not pins, not that it matters functionally, but just so you know. what does the back look like? i might be able to give you a more definite answer if i can see another retaining clip or something. that's the glovebox lock? it looks different than any that i've had. anyway, if you need to get the roll pin out, it's not a fun job... drill a really small hole right next to it (smaller than the roll pin if possible) and pry it out with a small sharp tool, like an ice pick. then you can re-use the roll pin when you put it back together. don't drill too deep or you'll damage the plug. you don't even need to drill all the way through. and take your time with it. it's easy to damage it trying to drill it and with prying on it. don't forget you want to be able to put it back together and have it stay together, so that roll pin needs to be able to be seated back in it's hole and stay there.

the code for that car should be the letter X followed by 4 digits. if it's just 5 numbers, it might only be a part # for the lock. Subaru stopped putting the codes on the pass lock sometime in the early 90's, so for a 93 it's hard to say if it will be there. don't post the code publicly, but if you want to DM me the code, i'll check it out. and if you want, i can make 2 keys and send them to you for 20 bucks if it is a code. obviously i can't guarantee that they will work, but i can guarantee that the keys will be cut accurately to the code you provide.

there's no way to get a code from the VIN anymore if the dealer doesn't have those records. but you may be in luck, some Subarus had the lock codes written on the inside of the glovebox, (either on the glovebox lock itself, or on a tag inside the glovebox) so check there first. they did that up to the early 90s, but they didn't always do it. next best option is on the passenger door cylinder, but that still means you'll have to take out that lock, so its certainly not as easy as looking in the glovebox! they stopped doing that in the 90s as well. if the code isn't on the cylinder, you can send me the lock and i'll decode it and a make a key for you and send it back. $35 including return postage and 2 keys. that's a good deal, and is basically my "friend price". my normal "customer price" if they bring the lock to me, is about $45-75 for most cars, depending on the car...could even be more. anyway, if the code is there and you want me to make the keys for you, i can do that as well, for $20, including shipping and 2 keys. but, since i won't have the lock here, i can't guarantee that the key will work in the locks. i can guarantee that my keys are cut accurately, but there could be other issues with the lock, such as stuck or bent tumblers, incorrect code, somebody re-keyed the locks in the past, other locks were replaced, etc. Same deal with the other locks if you send me one. i can obviously only guarantee the specific locks i work on, and not any of the other ones on the car. oh yeah, and you could just send me the trunk lock to decode if you don't want to deal with the hassle of taking out the passenger door lock to look for the code. let's hope the code is in the glovebox! hopefully this helps, even if you don't end up getting the keys from me.

actually, come to think of it, it used it on a 95 legacy also, so ASP is selling themselves short!

i just got home and checked my kit. it goes from 1970-1989 (i think it actually goes to 94 for the loyale - i rekeyed a 91 loyale lock with it) so it should definitely work for you! it's ASP A-16-100. they come up on ebay sometimes.

i think they are still available. but the 80 brat and an 80 DL/GL are totally different cars, right? i believe they changed the GL/DL's before they changed the brat and hatchback. or was that only for the mid-80's change when they started to look like the loyale? i can't remember.... anyway, there are definitely kits for the early 80's DL/GL (with the ea81 engine), but if the brat was held over with the previous body style, i'm not sure if it would be the same kit. since becoming a locksmith and knowing what to look for, i have never seen the locks in any of those old subarus. the kits come up on ebay pretty often, so it might be worth it to get one. you can always just sell it again if it doesn't work out. it will be listed as nissan/subaru because they used the same locks back then. ASP makes the kits. i'll try to find a part number in the next day or two if i get a chance.

hey sorry it took so long to get back. i've been lazy about checking in and i didn't get any notifications about your last replies. anyway, i don't know if you made any progress since then, but yes the ignition cylinder is pretty difficult to remove. it's much easier to rekey the other locks to match the ignition. in my car, which was a loyale (so it was a few years newer), it had a smaller key for the glovebox, but it had the same cuts as the last 3 or 4 (can't quite remember) on the regular key, so you could use your regular key or the special short key. the regular key didn't go in all the way but still worked.

No problem Does the key have an number stamped on it? I can look it up later and see if there is another blank to use that's not a valet key. Some of the info I have for that car is contradictory, so something is incorrect. I may be able to cross-reference your key and see if there is something else that would work as a master. It's also possible that there actually is no valet key at all, and the key you have is just a bad copy. the doors and ignition are slightly worn so it will still work with them, but the less commonly used locks (trunk and glovebox in this case) still have tighter tolerances and the key isn't close enough to work. If this is the case, you will need to get the key decoded and have a new key cut by code (not copied). That's best done in person in case something else is going on. I can decode your key and cut a new one, but without the car present, I would have no way to know if my key was any better, or if the problem is something else entirely (stuck or bent tumbler, for example). Anyway, I guess first let me know if you have a key blank ID number on your key and we'll go from there.

Yes, they are DA123 or 124 I think for the Loyale. I'm not sure for older Subarus. I'll check later, I don't have access to that info right now. 84 was the last year of the previous generation i believe. Nissan and Subaru used the same locks and codes for a long time, even going back to the Datsun days.

that sucks. well, i'll try to help. does the valet key fit in the trunk and not turn? or is it a completely different key? all the information I have going back that far is contradictory. some of it makes no mention of valet keys at all. some shows the same code series for both master and valet (which doesn't make sense), and some shows different code series but same key blank (which really doesn't make sense since the cuts are the same in all positions on all the keys/locks). my guess is that the blank is actually different and doesn't fit all the way into the lock (or maybe not at all). if that's the case, you can try getting the key copied at a locksmith. let them know this is a valet key but you need it copied onto a master blank. if the locks were never changed it should be the same cuts, so it should work. Make sure to bring your drivers license and the car's registration or insurance card to match. some locksmiths may be suspicious (I would be) of someone who wants to get a valet key copied onto a master blank. anyway, this will only work if my guess is correct that the valet key doesn't fit the lock. but it's only probably a $3-$5 gamble, so i'd say it's worth a try. [EDIT: they would probably charge more because it would involve looking up the compatible blank to copy the key onto instead of just finding the same one you brought in. i'd still say it's the way to go though.] as for the glovebox lock, I can't help you get one, but if you find one at a junkyard or something I can re-key it to your key. even if it doesn't come with any keys. I would just need you to send it with a copy of the key you want to work with it.

also, any internet archeologists out there who find this thread, feel free to exhume it from its ancient grave even if you find it years from now. i'll be able to offer this pretty much forever (well, limited by my lifespan), so get in touch if you need it.

a locksmith local to you should be able to get them easily enough, at least if they do automotive locksmithery--not all locksmiths do cars. it probably wouldn't be worth it to send them to me just to copy, with the shipping and waiting and all...but i'd do it if you can't find anyone else near you. i'd have to check the exact prices for the blanks but I could probably do it for $3-$5 a key including shipping.