Suba9792

the + side of the Brighton is they have AC that's about the only non basic item you got. I think Subaru was one of the few manufactures to add AC to most of the lines.

sweet another sensor to add to my list of "I know what that is":banana:

ECT?? what is that.

Check your knock sensor as well, I have heard that it can cause poor fuel economy not sure on that but mine is getting better mpg since the replacement, odds are yours has never been replaced and its most likely cracked, RockAuto has OEM ones for about $50. I'd also look into your coil as well, they tend to not fail but mine was biting you when it was touched, after the new one no probs and noticeably better fuel mileage. When I changed out my PCV valve on my 2.2 it was very gummed up and so was the hose leading to it, I just used some brake cleaner and cleaned out the hose and dropped in the new valve and my idle smoothed out greatly. Odds are you just have some dirty old part that either needs replacement or cleaning(EGR).

have your tires balanced and rotated, its most likely a balance issue.

GD said the tensioner was ok, are you talking about the hydraulic thingy? I got the kit from Import experts. Its a 97 lego. Ive done the seafoam job through the intake. Should I try it in the oil? The oil pump plate was checked and all was well. am I right about the whole rod bit though? rod knocks get louder as things heat up in my experience.

Any one have trouble with piston slap lasting more than 10min on an EJ22?, mine seems to do it for about 20min of driving and then it goes away, sometimes its still present after 30min but slowly goes away. At first I thought it was a rod knock but I'm pretty sure they do not go away and I would hear it at idle as well. This one seems to be only while accelerating I get the light tap,tap,tap in conjunction with acceleration but not while decelerating. New T-Belt job done by GD Fresh oil change Mobil 1 5w30 New OEM knock sensor new OEM plug wires and NGK plugs New(used)5MT with new Exedy clutch & TOB rebuilt OEM front axles New coil pack new battery I'm just stumped on this, I though piston slap only effected the ej25d but I might be wrong. And a rod would not go away and I'm sure it would tap,tap,tap at idle as well if that were the case. I'm just not sure how many miles I will get out of it with the slap. It just started 6 months ago, but it did it when it was cold before but recent months it takes a LLLOOOONNGGG time to dissipate. Hell I have even tried different grades of fuel to see what that might due, and nothing. please let it be piston slap and not a rod:eek: maybe it will lighten up as summer approches.

did you use OEM plug wires? this random EJ25d miss fire seems to be common. Vacuum leak?

Even with the fuse, a wheel bearing will still make the noise as the wheel is rolling. My guess would be either rear diff carrier bearing or the TC.

Its possibly the duty C solenoid or clutch pack. Look both up on the board to be honest I'm not positive on it. BTW Highly doubt its the rear end.

if it only is doing it going up hills its most likely not wheel bearing related be as the OP said it could be trans trouble, any codes?

My 2.2 in the 97 does it for about 15sec then it goes away. But it still taps for a while oh say 15 min of driving.

Yeah saw the name:lol: I think if they did make a large suv that they wouldnt use a 12cyl boxer, probably more of a large H6 or an H8 possibly. ahhaa that name still cracks me up.

yeah thats kinda how it feels. With the 14's that are on it probably doesnt help!! I'd like the find a cheap set of 15" steelies.

Agreed! you will probably want to have the EJ25d heads surfaced as well, so that ups the price. The ej22 swap will be much more cost effective now and for the life of that motor. Plain and simple the 25d is crap, I stand firm with this.

dont forget the o-rings for the rear of the cams, little plate with 2 bolts.

did you try the knock sensor? I'm guessing yes since you said all sensors...that's too bad you had to get rid of it, you do know the grieving will set in soon and you will be hunting for another:banana:

I think(hypothetically) that I figured it out....its the tires, they are super soft and there is a ton of of grooves for the winter traction. There is a reason why I think this, I had to go to OHSU to pick up my grandfather today and had my brother and my son in the car, along with a ton of medical supplies for my grandfather, with the added weight there was no drift so the tires IMO were planted to the ground more. I guess I'll just get some decent new street tires and see if that happens to work. Kinda want these Toyos to last a few seasons:lol: I didn't have this problem until I put these tires on, but I think I will still do new tie rods JIC and the other ball joint.

well there is your oil consumption problem, your rings are most likely toast, I'd say tear it down and do a complete rebuild. Or just find another good EJ20 to drop in.

yeah, i have my fingers crossed that I dont need a rack..

97 Legacy Brighton EJ22 5MT.

that makes sense, I will have to check that out.

just an idea... if you want an imprezza but cant afford a WRX, here is the other option:banana: find a decent imprezza with a ej25d, the find some ej22 heads talk to GD and get the torque cams. That car will scoot!! its know as the "frankenmotor" dada da, there ya go. GD has built one and is in the process of another for his GL(it will be scary).

I have replaced the rotors on my 97 Lego twice.. I live in the mountians so its a normal thing. Most of the shops around here charge at least $25 each to rotate them, I head to the closest parts store and viola! $25 each for brand new ones..so yeah you might as well pick up new ones as the cost of turning them will be about the same. Shiny new parts:banana:

yay, working on the steering rack, blah. dont want to do that so lets hope its ok:rolleyes: I'll start with the basics, check tie rods,ball joints,PS, the rack and the joints you talked about. I've heard of those going out.