EmmCeeBee

I could use the $20.... but I'll turn it down just to show this is "unbiased". Take the advice of the others here: you've got a clogged radiator. All the symptoms you describe line up with that diagnosis. Been there (except for the jumping snowbanks part). Follow the above link to the two-row radiator recommendation. Best long-term cooling fix you can do for an EA82. -- Mark

I think tizzle nailed it -- I was thinking vacuum leak, too. My cat used to have the habit of getting under the hood near the warm engine (it doesn't take much to cure 'em of that....) She somehow pulled off the vacuum line to the accumulator on the passenger-side fender. Engine idled like crap till I discovered it. There are a half dozen vacuum hoses, check to see if they're connected and not brittle. A can of carb cleaner can help find a leak, too; spray it around the base of the carbeurator/intake while the engine's running and see if the idle changes. Of course, it could be somethin' else, too.... -- Mark

Sorry, "bypass" hose was the wrong name. I meant the short hose (a 90* elbow) that connects from the water pump to the heater inlet line. It's completely hidden, underneath the bolt-on stuff on top of the engine. Which is why it's impossible to get at unless you're doing water pump work. Murphy's Law says this is the first hose to go when something leaks. My take on the "heats up with electrical load" is that the additional load on the engine simply puts more heat into the cooling system. You'd be amazed how much energy it takes to generate that much electricity (try it with a hand crank -- you'll heat up fast!). Any time the engine has to work harder, the cooling system sees higher temps. A cooling system in good shape will shed heat as fast (or faster) than it's generated. Either you don't have good coolant flow, or the heat exchange properties have deteriorated. A clogged radiator will do both these things (and lots of experience on this board points to this). A bad water pump is a possibility, but not as likely in my book. -- Mark

Actually, I'm certain the recommended interval is 55,000 miles -- but that's close enough. Can't remember what the source is, either the Sub owner's manual or a Haynes. I was assuming 60K, too. But last time mine broke, it was exactly 55600 miles since the previous one (at a Subaru dealership before I got the car, so parts shouldn't have been suspect). I was already to get ticked off when I discovered I had exceeded the recommended interval :-\ -- Mark

From your description, I can't tell if you're certain it isn't coming from the front of the engine. The oil pump would be a likely candidate for the leak; either the shaft seal fails or the shaft itself gets 'unround', or the micky mouse gasket dies. It's really tough to pinpoint this leak with the timing belt covers on, and it tends to weep all over front of the engine and come out where you'd least expect it. -- Mark

I read through all 9 pages of this and I have to add my voice to the chorus. At least 6 people have advised you to get a new radiator. Add my vote. While you're at it, put in a new water pump, and the short bypass hose. It just makes sense because to do these you gotta take out the radiator anyway. In my mind, it's 90% certain you have a clogged radiator. I'll give 8% to the bad water pump theory, 2% to a bad radiator cap. Hey, your Suby is 20 years old!! Original radiator, water pumps and bypass hose? That's more than double the life that most people get out of them. New radiator! Do it! -- Mark

One thing I haven't seen mentioned much here is a hydrocarbon test on the radiator. I "sniffs" gases in the radiator while the engine is running; if hydrocarbons show up, it's proof that combustion gases are getting into the coolant system. Ergo, leaking head gasket. From what I read, it's virtually foolproof. Sure, you can have bubbles in the coolant, or coolant in the oil, but unless these are REALLY obvious, you usually second-guess whether what you're seeing is what you're dreading. For this reason, I got a hydrocarbon test kit when I suspected a leaking HG. The test detects even minute levels that show up long before any other signs. Turns out I didn't have a leaky HG, so I don't have that much experience with diagnosing them.... But from what I figure, since combustion pressure is so much more than coolant pressure, a leaky HG would surely cross into the coolant on the piston upstroke. (On the downstroke, it would suck in some coolant, which shows up as oil contamination. I suppose it's remotely possible for a flaky HG to act as a "check valve" for a while and allow a one-way leak. Seems I've even read about that here.) The condition that a hydrocarbon test couldn't detect is a leaky HG between cylinders. This isn't so uncommon. Compression test would show this. I picked up a hydrocarbon test kit for $25 online at some tool store. I think Napa also carries it. Or a shop should do a one-time test for about the same amount. -- Mark

My impression is that this is pretty usual, since the horizontal design leaves oil to soak into the head gasket when the engine's at rest. After many years of this, it finds its way through... First of all, make sure it's the head gasket. If it's on the front corner of the head, it could be dribbles from the oil pump or camshaft seals. Scrub it clean (brake cleaner works) and watch it for a few days. Mine's been doing that for a few years. I re-did the oil pump seals, crank and cam seals a couple years ago, and now there's no drips on the garage floor. But if I crawl under the engine, I can still see a drop forming on the front corner of the left head gasket. It drips occasionally on the skid plate -- not enough to run off onto the floor. At the time I did the oil seal work, I retorqued the head bolts, a bit over spec. Some guys on this board will recommend this (maybe others won't?). It seemed to slow the drip down by about half. In all, a drop a week wouldn't be anything to worry about, as long as no evidence of coolant or compression leaks through the head gasket. -- Mark

If I remember right, last time I was up in BC, I saw some Napa Auto Parts stores. The ones in my neighborhood have Seafoam. Give 'em a try. -- Mark

>> After a certain speed its not as bad, but it will still pull to one side for a while, then pull to the other side for a while, then sometimes go straight for a while. If "a while" is "every revolution of the wheels", then this sounds like classic tread separation in a front tire. OTOH, if "a while" is "every 500 feet", then yeh it sounds like mechanical steering problems. -- Mark

I agree with the others, even about cheap oil and frequent changes. If the milkshake is only at the top of the filler tube, don't worry about it. Subarus have long oil filler necks, and they stick out away from the high heat of the engine into relatively cool air, especially in winter. That's exactly the spot you'll get any condensation. Every other car I've owned/worked on had the oil filler hole as part of the valve cover, so you'd never see condensation on the oil cap. Subarus are unique.... My first Sub in '76 did that to the oil cap, and I finally realized it was harmless physics. -- Mark

>> It usually happens going down the highway. Seems to boil the coolant out of the overflow tank but leaves some in the rad. Exactly the symptoms I chased a year ago -- the radiator cap, or the radiator, or both. The cap gets old an weak and can't hold 14psi, so coolant expands into the "overflow" tank, air gets sucked back into the radiator when it cools a bit, and it's a vicious cycle. But my radiator was 15 years old at the time, and I replaced that, too. The inside channels collect a layer of scum, and over the years that adds insulation so heat transfer suffers. If it's the original radiator, consider replacing it. Overheating at highway speeds points to the radiator. The engine's doing a ton of work, and it has to shed heat. The cooling system isn't overdesigned enough to allow for an inefficient radiator in that case. -- Mark

Hey moshe, keep 'em coming I'm learning a lot by reading the answers to your questions. I'll try this one: 1) Well, the PCV valve ("Positive Crankcase Ventilation") does suck air into the engine, but it's not exactly fresh air. It sucks gases out of the left side valve cover (driver's side in the US); fresh air is sucked into the right side valve cover (passenger side in the US), and the whole flow is right-to-left so that the crankcase is ventilated. The "fresh" air to the right side comes through a hose that's connected to the fresh air intake (either carburetor or fuel injected systems), so that it's guaranteed to be filtered. The PCV valve itself leads into the combustion path (below the throttle body) so that the engine gases can be burned. Result: cleaner emissions. That's all there is to it. Occasionally you might get oil sucked into the left-side hose (1993 models should have a design that prevents this). Of course, after a few years the hoses get rock hard and plugged up with deposits. So it's a good idea to clean them or replace them. You can also soak the PCV valve in solvent, because it can get sticky and not open properly. A PCV valve should rattle when you shake it. There's more to it than that, though, the spring should let it open at exactly the right vacuum level. They're cheap, just replace it after a few years. I believe you can disable the whole PCV system and not affect the running of the engine (I haven't done this....) But it certainly will affect the emissions, and is probably illegal in any area that has emission standards. 2) For the same reason (that it won't affect the running engine), I bet you can plug in any PCV that fits. But why? They're only a few dollars (in the US anyway). Most people on the board swear only by an OEM part for the PCV valve. You can do an internet search to see if the part numbers are the same for 1993 Leone and Impreza, but I bet they're not.... 3) Cars before the 1970's just dumped crankcase gases to the atmosphere, so that's what your new setup is doing (if I understand your description right). Shouldn't give you any problems, except excessive emissions. Just plug the fitting for the hose in the "air cleaner box". DON'T connect any of the PCV hoses to the fuel filter.... Don't even think of it, I don't see how you could do that anyway. Don't leave the "air cleaner box" fitting open, or you'll have a huge vacuum leak and screw up the air flow metering. Hope this helps. edit: Oh, if you take all the PCV stuff off, you'll have to plug the hole where the PCV valve itself was mounted, too. -- Mark

Gris, whatever you do, don't put bar's leak in the radiator. There's enough testimonials on this board to that stuff leading to the death of your radiator and/or cooling system. I don't think any external 'permatex'-type stuff would do anything, either, although it might get you a couple miles before it lets go. As said, it's really easy to replace an intake gasket. All you need is a couple hours with a wrench and scraper (use a hardwood stick, not metal...) Plus, you get the satisfaction of knowing it's done right. -- Mark

>> Am I to understand that I can drive it without power steering fluid? No, no, no! oobnuker was saying you can drive a sub just fine without a *power steering system*. If you leave the p/s pump hooked up and spinning, it'll probably self destruct after a few miles of pumping air. So the comment was, you can take off the p/s steering pump completely, along with its pulley, too, and use a shorter belt. If you decide to go this way, you should cap off the p/s lines (to keep out contamination and make it possible to rebuild someday). I haven't done this...... just arm-chair designing here. I'm not sure about '85 subs, but the later ones specify ATF in the p/s pump. Check the p/s cap, it'll say what fluid to use. Don't mix p/s fluid with ATF! -- Mark