sspeed

Thank you, what you wrote is pretty close to the service manual with a few key differences. I had heard the service manual was wrong. So I need to ground the connector and then go do this?

Very good to know, thanks all, I hadn't seen the B82 pin #5 portion before. So it looks like I need to ground that connecter, and then do the drive, stop, go in reverse, floor it, turn my blinker on, flash the headlights, and pop the cigarette lighter action to get the code? The pdf was also very informative. My time lag test and stall test are perfect. Reading the pdf makes me remember why I suspect the TPS... I need to get the code... From the pdf: If a speed sensor fails, the remaining sensor signal will be used. - Seem good here In case of throttle sensor failure, the idle contacts will signal the throttle opening. Line pressure will go to maximum at open throttle and it will go to minimum at closed throttle. - Granny shifting at 2500rpm doesn't seem to fit this, the very hard shifts do. But full failure would throw lights and I rarely get them. Therefore, an inhibitor switch failure has no effect. If multiple signals are seen in the forward ranges the inhibitor switch is ignored and there is no fourth gear. - Good there If shift solenoids #1 or #2 malfunction, the TCU deactivates the other. This results in either 3rd gear or Reverse (when selected). - No problems there either If duty solenoid “A” fails, line pressure goes to maximum. - This would be the case for the hard shifts, but not the granny shifting. If duty solenoid “B” fails, the torque converter lock-up will not occur. - Good here If shift solenoid #3 malfunctions, the overrunning clutch is always “ON” and there will be engine braking during deceleration. - Good here If duty solenoid “C” should fail, the AWD control will be set to maximum and the rear wheels will always be powered. - I have no torque bind. I got this from the '98 service manual... TROUBLE SYMPTOM: Shift point too high or too low; engine brake not effected in “3” range: excessive shift shock; excessive tight corner “braking”. And it makes sense that it doesn't downshift regardless of throttle position. The intermittent nature of the problem is making troubleshooting problematic though... As far as erroneous shift patterns, the General Diagnostic Table only lists a few problem children: Shift characteristics are erroneous. 1) Inhibitor switch 2) Control module 3) Vehicle speed sensor 1 4) Vehicle speed sensor 2 5) Throttle position sensor 6) Control valve When you add in the very rare non-shifting, there are only two things common... No shift occurs from 2nd to 3rd gear. 1) Control module 2) Control valve 3) High clutch 4) One-way clutch (3-4)

Any updates?

We have a '98 OUtback AT. About once a month we'll get the 16 AT Oil Temp flashes at startup. I've been through the service manual and tried the procedure there to get the trans status code to no avail. Then I've searched all around the forums and tried the secret handshake, also to no avail... This is driving me nuts. Help! Our car exhibits two symptoms: 1) It ALWAYS drives normal until the car warms up. 2) Usually after warming up it will granny shift at 2500rpm regardless of throttle position, and won't downshift while driving unless you use the shift lever. Stoplights it apparently goes back to 1st, then repeats the granny shifting... or 3) It will shift with great shock between 1st and 2nd, then rev 3rd super high and slam in to that gear too. The shock from 1st to second is enough to give back pain. This happens much more rarely than #2. I've been up and down the service manual to no avail. I can't get the codes for the life of me. I tried the various tests such as the stall test and others and all checked out fine. Help me get the codes! Can I even pull them if the light only flashes 16 times once a month and won't do it on next restart?

Thank you! So I saw, "Trouble code retrieval is similar to previous models, except for grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column. Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU." Does that mean I need to ground the connector AND do the secret TCM handshake of driving, switching gears, and shutting the car off and on in succession?

By "grounding" the connector, you mean plugging in those two leads shown in the picture and not jumpering it right?

Thank you, I've been searching like crazy and either don't know what terms to search for or I can't find it... I'll keep looking, if you find it before me let me know... Thanks!

FINALLY! I reset the #14 (I think) fuse last night and today I got 16 flashes today! I never thought I'd be so excited about that... However, it only ever did it on one start... I assume that the code is still in memory despite only flashing the 16 flashes once and just getting a normal light every other time? I pulled the diagnostic procedure and I can't seem to get it right, I have some questions... On steps 7 and 10, where it says "Turn Ignition switch to ON" does that mean to start the car? I'd assume it would just mean to turn to the ON position, but not start the car. However, in step 3 it says the same thing, then says to Drive at speeds greater than 12mph, which I assume means starting the car unless they want you to roll downhill... Any clarifications on how to do this? Am I overthinking this? I can't get the code flashes to happen...

Awesome, just read a good article that helped me understand a few things.. still, I can't wrap my head around what would be causing it though... most failures say they will light a code and that line pressure will go to a maximum, which should let it shift, just harshly... Shift solenoid #3 is said to control downshifts... but if that were bad, could I downshift manually still? Fail Safe Components and Failure Results If a speed sensor fails, the remaining sensor signal will be used. In case of throttle sensor failure, the idle contacts will signal the throttle opening. Line pressure will go to maximum at open throttle and it will go to minimum at closed throttle. Although the inhibitor switch may fail, the manual valve will still be in the correct position for all selected ranges. In P and N however, it may affect start-up, therefore, there is a potential for a no-start condition. In Reverse, the TCU is passive. Therefore, an inhibitor switch failure has no effect. If multiple signals are seen in the forward ranges the inhibitor switch is ignored and there is no fourth gear. If the 1-HOLD switch is defective, the system operates in the same manner as an inhibitor switch failure in the forward ranges. If the MANUAL switch is defective (Legacy only), the transmission will shift normally in D position. It will operate the same as an inhibitor switch failure when the selector position 3 - 2 - 1. If shift solenoids #1 or #2 malfunction, the TCU deactivates the other. This results in either 3rd gear or Reverse (when selected). If duty solenoid A fails, line pressure goes to maximum. If duty solenoid B fails, the torque converter lock-up will not occur. If shift solenoid #3 malfunctions, the overrunning clutch is always ON and there will be engine braking during deceleration. If duty solenoid C should fail, the AWD control will be set to maximum and the rear wheels will always be powered.

Thank you! I'll go searching now, if you happen to find it first let me know.

One thing I forgot to add: Once it starts acting up, the trans also always upshifts around 2000-2400 rpm, you can use the throttle to push it up to 2400, but never above that.. The next day, when cool, it works just fine until it heats up again... and some days it will work just fine regardless of temp...

1998 Outback 2.5L When cold, after sitting all night, the automatic transmission will always kickdown initially, but once the car comes up to temp (4-5 blocks) you can slam the pedal all you want and it won't usually kickdown. I say usually because sometimes it works just fine, but usually not. * Downshifting still works flawlessly with the shifter * Performance seems fine * No CELs * AT Temp light just comes on normal at startup, then goes off * Checked continuity on TPS and it was correct * Checked TPS and MAF function on OBDII logger and they look to be reporting correctly * Did 2 drain/fills, fluid looked perfect HELP! This is driving me crazy!