ts39136

Holy SH$%! Is that a center-steer? Looks like fun. Do you still have the turbo I gave you?

Yes... Do you have one to do? Maybe I could borrow your welding skills and you could borrow my suby knowledge?

Hey Jim! Glad you made it over here. Lookin Good.

Finally got around to taking a video, not the best, but I'm super excited to get this thing out and play! I had a problem with one of the engine connectors and had to bypass a fuel injection wire around the plug (corroded plug), but otherwise been purring like a kitten! Sounds good with the glasspacks on there.

Here is a how to to redo the vw fuel sender. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=380693&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Was it fuel sender value you were looking for? Full = 2.0-5.0 ohms Empty = 92.0-95.0 ohms. Should be fairly linear in between.

I'm not an expert, but I may be able to answer two of your questions... I tried to read for codes but the check engine light wire from the ECU gives a max of 0.6 volts when the IGN is put to ON and does read anything after the engine is started. --> You might be checking voltage to a 12 volt positive? Check engine light from ECU is 12v, must put through light to ground to work. Try checking volatge to ground in test mode (black connectors hooked up), it should come on, then flash trouble codes. A test light works perfectly for this. Even if no trouble codes, it should come on when in test mode. I also only have the two Green wires and only one black terminal. --> Do you mean two green plugs and one black plug?? One of the green plugs should be a ground (black and a colored stripe (cannot remember the color)) and if you can fit the black plug in there it will work as it should. Subaru has these two plugs wired to the same ground wire. If you can't figure that out just run a jumper from black plug to ground for test mode. -->That's all I can help with, like I say , I'm no expert myself.

Pictures... Good plan. Here is my "build page" from another site. I didn't start with Subaru in mind, the idea evolved slowly. I bought the subaru around page 4. build page Here is a VERY short u-tube video of it running. I still have a lot of work to do to make it drivable, but now that it's running I have lots more ambition.

YYYYYYIIIIIIIIPPPPPPPEEEEEEE!!!!! Stupid me. I was redesigning the intake and for a while I was thinking of using a cone intake, but when I went back to the air box I left a rubber coupling connected and figured it would keep debris out while I modified it. Anyway, that coupler wasn't letting very much air in. Thanks for pointing me to the intake. I runs perfect now, for the few seconds I did run it (no coolant). It would go to idle fine and come off idle fine. SWEET!! (Can you tell I'm excited) Thanks for all the information on this forum. One more dancing bannana for good cheer

Very good, Thanks for the info. Clean contacts, checked harness continuity of Knock sensor, checked output voltage of ECU pin -- all good. checked resistance of knowck sensor - service manual says 560 k ohm, but when I check I get an increasing number starting at approx 550 k ohm and will continue to climb to 800 k ohm or better if I leave my meter on there???? I will go through the manifold now. I hope there is a gaping hole that I can plug - please please please....

Well, I test started it today. It won't idle, like it's missing a cylinder. The ECU is giving me a code 22, knock sensor. Even when I clear codes, it gives me this error before running again. Funny, but this is one of the few sensors I didn't mess with the wiring. I did check continuity between knock sensor and block, none. (like it's supposed to be). Are these symptoms consistent with knock sensor failure?? Any thoughts??? I hope I didn't screw anything else up, like injector wiring or something to miss a cylinder.

Looks good. Much needed inspiration for me. I'm about to start soldering on my ej22 to baja bug swap.... One questions though, did you ever get your outhouse moved closer to your house? It seems like that would be a long walk in the winter . Great fab work. Kept the VW feel. Love it.

Thanks. It's good to see others crazy enough to attemp such feats. One more question if you don't mind... It did come out of a MT car (?), but who knows what's happened with that car in the last 20 years. Should I put a pin 9 in? Or simply run without a clutch switch? Will I see any benefit from running a clutch switch? It would seem that the donor didn't have any error codes... But, If this was an AT car, do I need to scavenge the AT control module to complete the swap? I did read something to that effect in my hours of searching. I will be installing a neutral switch, if that helps any. Thanks ahead of time. I am excited to put the final coat of shirink wrap on this weekend.

Hello all, I've been reading your site and am grateful for all the useful information I am in the middle of a EJ22na to VW bug engine swap. I have a donor car. 1991 Legacy (mfg 11/90) . A few questions... 1. The wiring diagram for clutch switch lists connector b58 pin 9. My ECU does not have a wire here??? Any thoughts? 2. Also, to clarify. To select Manual Trans mode, do I ground pin 20 on b48? or do I leave it open? Service Manual says "5 volts" for manual trans with ignition on. Zero for AT. Thanks. I may have more questions.