2manetoys

That is exactly what it was. Thanks Gloyale ! It did not separate at the tip like I had thought it would, but rather along one of the "legs" so I couldn't see it until we put the multimeter on it.

So the new battery was installed backwards the first time and the horn and car alarm went off. When battery installed correctly, there is no only the door chimes. Not even a click when I try to turn it over. I've check all the fuses (both in the box in the engine compartment and behind the coin catcher) and they are fine. The relays / Fuses with the viewable tops in the engine compartment box are good as well. Could it be one of the relays in the box or is there somewhere else I should be looking? Thanks in advance. Update: horn will still honk when using the factory key fob and doors will lock and unlock, but no lights on the instrument cluster.

This is a long gestating project that I have going on and I would like some opinions. The EJ 22 Swap will happen, but I'm undecided on whether to go with the D/R 4wd or AWD. This will not be a DD or likely ever see snow, but might see some dirt / farm roads. No lifts or lowering. I have an 85 Brat that needs some fairly significant body work (Rust Repair) before I start that actual EJ Swap, so I am still in the planing/ accumulating phase at this point. I have a 5spd D/R from an 87 Loyale and an EJ22 from a 95 Sedan along with the 5spd AWD trans that was in it. 3rd gear synchro went out according to the previous owner, but iI drove it up onto the trailer to haul it home (Obviously didn't need 3rd gear for that). my DD is a 96 Outback wagon with a 5Spd that has Torque Bind. I have another rear diff that I have not yet installed, but can if I can ever get time off. I will likely have another car before I get to the trans portion of the EJ Brat Swap ( I'm slow) so I can use my current 5spd fom the 96 with the 95 Legacy's good Rear Diff. The D/R will be easier and will require much less fab work (which I can't do myself yet) but the AWD would be awesome and allow more integration with newer gen and more accessible parts. This is what inspired my dilemma: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Other-BRAT-1983-subaru-brat-swap-1995-legacy-motor-1993-legacy-5-speed-awd-/161431274553?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25960dc439&item=161431274553&pt=US_Cars_Trucks Might be cheaper just to buy that one. LOL

I've got a spare radiator on the way thanks to another USMB member so I might try this once I have the "new" one in place. I'm grateful that this is a back up car and not my DD.

Thanks for all the advice. I tinkered with it a bit more today and found that I had a leaky coolant bypass hose ( now replaced ), 2 loose sparkplugs (from the compression test ) and a vacuum leak on the hose from the EGR to the top of the manifold (removed hose and capped). That has smoothed out the idle and she's purring like the proverbial kitten. Now I just have to find a good way to repair the pin hole leak in the radiator (Stop leak maybe?!?!?) and she should be road ready again. So should I use the STOP Leak or take out the radiator and take it to a local radiator shop?

Here are some pics of what I've got. I know that I can go to the bottom of the heads on each side to do the quarter trick to remove the ASVs, but I haven't gotten to that yet. I wanted to test it to see if it would run first it does, but rough ( pretty smooth idle so I've got the timing off a bit.) EGR is still there, but I know it's not hooked up correctly. I'm a rookie. Pics start on the passenger side and go all the way around and then an overhead pic. If there are excessive pics LMK and I'll remove the unnecessary ones.

I'm FINALLY getting around to finishing a Weber swap on my 85 Brat that I started nearly 2 years ago. Since I didn't label everything as I knew that a fair portion was NOT going back in, I'm not sure that I have everything hooked up correctly and I want to make sure that I didn't delete something I needed to keep and vice versa. If Anyone has pics of an EA81 WITHOUT emissions after a Weber swap, I'd LOVE to see them. I've searched the forum several times using different terms and the pics I find are either EA82s or the links are broken (even the Great ones that used to be in the USRM). Thanks in advance for all the help!

I know that you can buy digital copies off ebay and they will email them to you after they are paid for. PDF files.

96 Legacy Outback 2.2L 5spd (needs wheel bearings in the front and CVJs and had torque bind) 20-24mpg in town delivering sandwiches for Jimmy johns (motto is "subs so Fast you'll Freak" ) so NOT driven like a grandma.

+1 to the red anaerobic. cleans up pretty easy too.

For What it's worth, when I recently did the Belts/pumps/seals on my 96 2.2 OBW, the Crank pulley was a bear to get off. we tapped it with a wooden mallet to break it loose, then used a 3 arm puller to slide it the rest of the way off. Once it was off and we were ready to put everything back together, we used some 1500 grit sandpaper to remove the rust on the crankshaft and it easily slid right back on. And off again when we had to replace the oil seal that we cut when reassembling it! First time through changing Water pump, thermostat, belts & resealing the Oil pump 6 hours. Second time through, replacing oil seal around crankshaft, 2.5 hours and that includes 45 minutes of part chasing. I LOVE how easy this engine is to work on. Next up, plugs, wires & Knock Sensor, then Axles & Wheel Bearings.

I think that a Stickied thread in ALL forums with a donations link would help. It would at the least make it easier to find and therefor donate to the site. I would be perfectly willing to do a subscription to the site especially if it were a monthly rather than annual subscription. not sure how hard or expensive that would be to set up though. A tier level among the donors would be nice, but not at the expense of information sharing. Perhaps something like a written instruction on how to do something for non-donors, but instructions with Pics for donors or maybe a chat function for donors only (if that's not too expensive/troublesome.) I did like someones suggestion about a "Search function" tutorial as I struggle with that one as well. I don't think Twitter is such a good idea, but I think that Facebook would be nice if simply so that those of us who have accounts there could find out if others are online and use FBs chat function to communicate more quickly. Having it as an option would be nice, but certainly is NOT a deal breaker for me.

Yes it's a 2.2. And is the Ultra Grey the Anaerobic sealant I've been reading about? I'll probably pull the radiator & fans as one assembly so I don't screw them up. I've read that it doesn't take that much longer and give more room to maneuver.

I'm getting ready to reseal mine when I do the timing belts / WP / oil pump reseal. I won't be pulling the motor on mine so would you still recommend replacing the O rings and baffle plate you mentioned in the quote above? The dealer list you mentioned above will be Very handy. Thanks!

+10 to the independent shop. I found one in my town and got a new flange welded to the cat, with a new donut gasket, a joint in the rear removed and a solid piece welded in, a broken bracket repaired, and heat shields tacked back down. When I asked how much, they said "$40". I gave em $50 cause I was happy with how quiet it was and that they did a lot of the "little stuff" without even being asked. A chain store would have wanted to sell me a new cat and still wouldn't have touched the rest of the stuff like the broken bracket and heat shields.

Thanks for the tips. I just received my FSM on CD in the mail so I'm now able to put the names of the parts that you're telling me with the pics from the FSM to better understand how it works. I'll be looking at the brake system next to make sure that there's nothing out of whack there as well and I'll go from there.

I've got a 96 Outback with the 5spd manual and 2.2L and when I go into a tight turn in either forward or reverse it feels like the brakes are on even I'm not pressing the pedal. Some background info. Shortly after I bought it, I had to put about 15 lbs of air in each of the 4 tires. Since then (a week) I've had to add air to 2 again (4lbs).This seemed to correct the problem teh first time I aired the tires up. I know that I need to get the tires checked out and possibly filled with nitrogen if that will prevent or slow the air loss. I also had to replace a frozen drivers front caliper and it sounds like the passenger one has a very slight drag to it. I'll be replacing the flex lines very soon in case they are collapsing. What other things should I check out to see if it's a brake problem or torque bind and what order should they be done in?

Does the EJ have the "mickey" seal on the oil pump or am I mis-remembering? or do the oil pump and cam shaft seals together make up the mickey seal? Also, I found a 97 OBW with Power door locks in a semi-local yard and my 96 doesn't have power locks. how hard is it to add them? Just cutting in the hole for the switch and plugging it into the plug inside the door panel? Are there other "frequent use" parts that I should snag if I come across them?

Thanks for the info. Are the O-rings you're talking about for the oil pump? or something else? I remember reading that I should replace those seals as well, I think.

So now that I've found my Baby (and I'm LOVING IT! Why didn't I get an EJ Subaru sooner? Oh yeah, I'm a Cheapskate. LOL! ) I want to make sure that she lasts as Long as she possibly can. I know that I need/want to do the timing belts/ tensioners / seals, water pump, etc. I've done some searching and found out the how to write ups and I found a timing belt kit from theimportexperts on ebay for $90ish that contains: (1) Timing Belt (13028-AA102) (1) Timing Belt Tensioner Bearing (13069-AA037) (2) Timing Belt Idler (13073-AA142) (1) Timing Belt Idler Sprocket (13085-AA010) What other things will I need to acquire (water pump, thermostat?!? & seals) and where should I get them (OEM or aftermarket?) ?

Miss What? LOL

Not once it hears what's going to happen to what Made those oil spots. This is what it is replacing: Reliable as heck, but not worth putting any money into. It did exactly what I bought it to do. got me around until I found something better. And it did a fine job of it. Interior parts and SPFI will hopefully live on in something else.

I Finally found a 5 spd 96 Outback that I could afford and that would do what I needed it to do. I needed a reliable DD for one of my jobs delivering for Jimmy Johns and after asking for some advice and a LOT of searching of CL, eBay and several other for sale sites in the midwest I finally located this little diamond in the rough in Cincinnati for $1K. 96 Outback wagon with 5spd manual and 2.2L and 176K miles, heated Cloth seats and rearview mirrors, alloy wheels and tires have at least 70% tread. Power windows, and Cruise Control are nice too! It's got 2 rust holes at the top of the rear wheel wells and a little bit below the handle on the rear hatch gate as well as on the roof. Broken exhaust bracket and the Catalytic converter flange had rusted off, but the Cat was fine (local shop welded on a new flange, added the donut gasket as well as tacking down the exhaust manifold heat shields and eliminating the rear most joint all for $50! ). It had a frozen Caliper on the drivers side so I had to replace the pads in the parking lot of the previous owners' apartment complex before I could drive it 2.25 hours home (90% interstate). Dual piston calipers that were a major PITA to locate quickly and accurately. I had to drive the sons' car to Indy to the Napa DC to get the right ones after 2 screw ups at the local store and they only found the correct ones by searching for it as a 97 with the 2.5L LOL. Shifter bushing is virtually non-existant (4" of side to side slop) and the drivers side power steer boot is torn. Previous owner had small kinds so the interior is a bit of a mess, but nothing that can't be cleaned. So far I have about $1300 in it and that will give me parts to fix everything except the sloppy shifter and the rust (Thanks Shawn W! ) As a comparison, the next best thing was in Pennsylvannia (6 hours one way) and was $2K and not significantly better condition except maybe the interior). The only other one within a 300 mile radius that I found for sale had 246K with new clutch, PP & TO Bearing and was $3500. You guys weren't kidding when you said the 96 OBW w 5 speed was hard to find! Enough Chatter. On to the Pics! First night at home: after some window scraping: Interior pics to come. Want before and After?

Thanks to the good Advice from my friends here on the USMB and a fair amount of searching CL, cars.com, carsforsale.com, ebay, etc. I have FOUND and acquired a burgundy 96 OBW with the 2.2L motor & 5spd trans. It does have a few flaws, mostly cosmetic except for a couple of rust holes and a sloppy shifter (bushing) & driver front caliper needs rebuilt, but for the price I'm Happy as a Lark in Spring. Thanks again!

+1 on the Great write up. USRM Addition please?!?