buzzcon

Thanks for the info, Gary. I went on ebay and bought the kit, with the water pump. Connie had most of it right. but it only has 70,000 miles and I hadn't even thought about the age of the car; I was just going off of the mileage. I'm so used to my older Subes, that I think of the Impreza as my new car. I'm glad you reminded me that age counts! ~Myles~

I've got a 2000 impreza, 2.2 automatic, non turbo, with 79,000 miles on it. Is it time to change the timing belt? If the answer is yes, what else changes with it. I know the water pump needs to be changed out, but what else? Also, should I use only Suburu parts, or can I get a better price elsewhere, with the same quality? Any advice is appreciated. This is a first time job for me on the 2.2, I've done the job on the on my '86 and on my '88. Thanks. ~Myles~ Okay, wait, this is actually Connie trying to help Myles out, by posting a question for him, while he's at work. So if something sounds like he doesn't know what he's talking about, I'll take the blame. He needs to get his parts ordered so he can get this done. Thanks ~the con in buzzcon~

The fun never ends . Thanks for the help. This job just got a little bigger, but doable. ~Myles~

The boot's not torn, where it goes into the rack, but there's play in the right side of the arm that goes into the rack. So, there's no adjustment, it can only be replaced?

I've got an 88gl wagon, ea82t, that I'm replacing the front wheel bearings on. While I'm there I feel the right control arm on the rack & pinion move; it has about 3/16th" play in it. Can that be adjusted & if so how?

Hey, guess what? That's where the problem was. :banana: No head gasket problem, no PIA, just a little tiny hose & I'm up n runnin'! Thanks for the all the help, guys. Now I'm off to the '88 & the wheelbearing problems. Then the F150 4wd gets fixed & sold & the Conquest well....that just gets sold. I don't have the time to replace an engine. I just want to keep my Subies on the road. :grin: Man I'm so happy :lol:. ~Myles~

I've considered the cash for clunkers program , but I don't want the car payments. I've just got to get the time off work to fix them. I'm lucky to be working, so I'm not griping about work, but my rides are getting scarce. I feel like I've got a barn full of dead horses.

The car is my wife's '86 gl sedan auto. One thing I noticed is after I turn the car off & let it sit for about 5 minutes there's no pressure in the hose. I'll check the floor well and check the hose on the thermostat housing. Dang, I can't get my wagon on the road & now my wife's car's going down (which I'm driving ) I've got a Ford f150 (not running) A '88 Conquest TSI (not running) an '88 ea82t wagon (not running) & an '86 gl sedan (limping)

I'm losing coolant somewhere & I can't figure out where. I've checked all of the hoses; heater, radiator & the little intake hose. The thermostat's good. The radiator is a fairly new double core & the fan's working fine. I'm having to add a half gallon about every 50 miles. Nothing coming out of the tailpipe. I'm not overheating, but of course it's running a little warmer than usual. What am I missing here. Any ideas?

AHHHHH...light bulb clicks on, I should've thought of that....hoses rotting on the inside makes a lot of sense. I'll be replacing them this weekend Thanks! Niku-Sama No my car doesn't smoke-- cigs or otherwise & the rubber on the cap looks good, except for that black dodo all over it. When I wipe it off, it looks fine. The hoses do to, but they are pretty old. I'm still losing some fluid, though. I just don't know where. I'll find it though. Thanks for the help, guys. ~Myles~

My wife's '86 sedan was running a little warmer than usual, so I take off the radiator cap & there's a black tarry substance all around the rubber on the cap & the top of the radiator where the cap touches. The radiator's clean, but unusually low. The stuff smells like rubber but the rubber on the cap is fine. The radiator's in great shape. I thought I smelled it leaking a while back, & thought that it was probably dripping onto the exhaust, so when I had it up on jack stands, I checked it out & everything was dry. I checked all of the hoses this time and snugged up one, that was a little loose. So what could that tarry stuff be? Any ideas? The car's running great. ('86 ea82 automatic sedan)

Thanks guys. I'll save my money on the other set of jackstands & start tearing down the wheel. I've got a set of new bearings, I picked up some time ago, but they're not sealed. I'll check the castle nut. Anybody got any recommendations for bearing grease. The high temp red wheelbearing grease is crappy. Does anybody have any other suggestions about where to get a good wheelbearing grease? Thanks. ~Myles~ Oh, thanks Bobaru, but I've got the socket.

I've been hearing a howling, pulsating sound when I'm moving. It becomes continuous over 60mph. I can feel vibration thru the gas pedal. I checked the u-joints on driveshaft..they're fine. The left front wheel has 1/8th or more vertical play..the right none. Is that wheel bearings? Would that cause the howling & vibration? I'm trying to get another set of jackstands, to lift it completely off the ground, start it up & try to pinpoint the noise. Anybody tried that? Any advice is appreciated, cause I need to get it back on the road. I haven't been driving it, cause I don't want to do more damage. Thanks, in advance, for your help. ~Myles~

Oh... markjw's got a sweet set of seats, cheap, out of an '84. Thanks for the info. ~Myles~

Does anybody know if the seats out of an 84 wagon will fit in an '88 without too much of a hassle?

I've got an '88 ea82t, manual wagon. It started making a low tone pulsating sound, that came on gradually and is getting louder. I can feel a vibration thru the gas pedal. It starts at 30mph up to 55mph, it pulsates every second. After 55 it stops pulsating and makes a loud whinney sound. Does it sound like wheel bearings or transmission output bearing or driveshaft bearing? If so how can I check it? Thanks ~Myles~

The GM-4300 F looks good for you. You're dealing with 200 watts RMS, so that amp's plenty at 400 watts. "Nominal Power." is basically the same as RMS. So you get that amp and you're good to go. :banana:Keep us up on the project and maybe post it in the stereo section. You may be right that we don't visit there often, I don't know, but when someone's working on a stereo project they probably check it out. Pics of your doors and shims, with your explanation might be helpful for someone. ~Myles~

1st thing I need to know is what is your RMS on your speakers. RMS=continuous power, in other words, a 50 RMS can run 50 watts into that speaker at all times without causing damage to the speaker. So check the RMS on your speakers and let me know. Or check the RMS on front and rear and add all of them together to determine the size 4 channel amp that you're going to get. You want more wattage than your speakers because you need reserve power. The wire would be better at 14 gage than 16, for you speaker wire, since you're running an external amp. You also need to seal the shims, that you made, with RTV, to stop any air leaks, to make your door the best speaker box that you can. When you run the power wire from your battery into your car for the external amp, put the fuse as close to the battery as you can. That way if there's a short, the fuse will blow right at the battery.

Thanks, I'll check out the vacume lines. My wife's '86 sedan engages and disengages immediately. My CJ7 engaged and disengaged immediately, too. So does my F150. Could I be having solenoid problems or should I just not be concerned about it?

When I engage the switch for the 4wd, on my 88 ea82t wagon, it doesn't engage right away. Then, when I turn off the switch, it doesn't disengage right away. Any ideas on what's causing that? (easy fix?) Thanks ~Myles~

I love my Brat, wherever it is. Someday, I'll find it, be able to afford it, it'll run great, look even better and it'll be mine, all mine...but until then I'll just, sniff, sniff.....love it.........Is that working on anyone? Cause if it is, I could go on:rolleyes: ~Connie~

My wife's 86gl sedan leaks in the same place, on the passenger side. I keep a turkey baster in the trunk to do quick water suction. :-p hey it works.. I've been messing with that leak for a year and still can't find it. Keep us posted...

When you put that much money in an older car, make sure that you keep all of the receipts and take pictures. If your car is in an accident, the insurance company (yours or the other guys) will total the car out at kbb prices. Your receipts can be added on to that price. Unfortunately, the time that you put in, is not included. A mechanic's time can be included. Routine maintenance is, also, not included, but those receipts go toward proving that the car was well maintained. The only other thing that you can do, that I know of, is to get the car appraised. That's usually done by recognized car clubs. You could also enter it in some car shows. I know all of this because I ended up suing over an old TR4 that I had restored. It was totaled in a rear end collision and the insurance company offered me $500. We ended up in court with pictures and receipts and the judge awarded $4000. He said that he felt it was probably worth more and could have awarded more if I had an appraisal. Hope that helps.