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RedSasha

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About RedSasha

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 01/03/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Gulf coast
  • Occupation
    Father
  • Vehicles
    1988 DL wagon, 1989 GL Wagon
  1. Just a heads up that if you lament the lack of parts in the south or have a yearning for your own build-up that all is not lost. We are downsizing in a major way and moving out of state. Though I am sad, hopefully this group will see the value in this post and go look in the "for sale" forum. Thanks, RedSasha
  2. I have had the experience of trying to locate the correct seals for my wagon before, so I'm just going to start here as you gentlemen helped me find the last little bit last time as well. Props to all y'all. When driving to get gas, the front PS brake started smoking. yes, this was the reason to look at each wheel today. I figure that the brake system gets new fluid through and through after disassembly and re-assembly with proper grease. Hopefully the caliper will fall in line and behave well. BUT>>>> When I took the drums off, the wheel cylinders were weeping. Looking closer, the grease was nearly non-existent and the wheels turned with resistance. ** the driver's rear hub actually had a colony of ants living in there! Those must be some dizzy ants. Contacting my local parts houses, they were not showing any wheel bearings, seals or other goodies. As laudable it is to have a 27 year old Subaroo as my daily machine, the dealership does not enjoy looking up the part numbers for me as the books for my cars are not computerized (or some other weak excuse). I NEED PART NUMBERS I NEED PROPER SOURCES I am getting a bit tired of the hunting down of parts and other bits without having any numbers except those I've kept track of when I bought new or repop pieces. IS THERE A PARTS CATALOG/ PARTS LIST? I appreciate your help and know that quite likely all of these things have been answered before, but my search was not fruitful. Regards. Ryan
  3. Awesome, Scott! That is fantastic advice and straightforward, too. I am baffled at why the Imprezas of the same year had such drastic improvements in HP. Why is that? My younger Prezzer was a rev-happy curb scraper, it didn't seem near as torquey as my wife's Forester of that same era. Should I Start the lift, wheels and focus on finding and rebuilding an EJ motor to drop in? It must be you and your crew whose videos I watch on Youtube. I figure you have this down to a science. Thank you in advance. Ryan
  4. Since having kids, I've slowly given away or sold off all of the things which bring me a goofy grin. Now, when I go to buy them back the cost is ridiculous! To save myself this pain again, I've decided that the Harley can go, but my dual range Subaroo will stay. Because it will be my keeper, I want to go about lifting it to put on larger rims, tires. 1. How tall does it need to be for the Isuzu trooper wheel and tire set-up? 2. How tall should it be to have clearance for crawling about in Beg Bend Ranch (mountain passes and stream bed crossings) 3. Making it taller >might< affect the alignment and necessitate longer half shafts... has anyone crossed this bridge? 4. How much turning radius will I lose to the taller wheels and tires? (I plan on fairly narrrow tires, not marshmallows) Bonus questions: With the engine dial reading 266,000 miles, would it be good enough to do a long block rebuild? What type of engine is easily enough swapped in without needing to buy the entire car to fir in the electronics et al? Many thanks, Ryan
  5. I have decided to go after my oil pressure sending unit as well. Since replacing the front end seals and belts, the bloody thing has read ZERO. Touching a grounded wire to the sending unit tab momentarily while all is attached gets MAX reading. Remove the grounded wire, remains at MAX. Disconnect the lead from the sensor and it will slowly drop to ZERO This is a SUBARU part... The sensor is in a different location on the pump body from the previous oil pump. Can't see that mattering (?) ? -- Would an "aftermarket" pressure gauge hook up to the dash display or to a secondary pot gauge nestled into the cluster? Thank you in advance.
  6. I was encouraged to take care of everything while replacing the timing belts on our newer Subaru, the '89. The metal tube inserted nto the water pump has an O-Ring on it. The condition deems replacement is neccessary. The groove that it resides in is square in nature and the O-Ring is now sporting a rectancular cross-section. ~Is the O-Ring in question just a 25 year old bit of rubber which is now misshapen OR was this O-Ring originally shaped in a NOT-ROUND manner? Thank you, Gentlemen!
  7. So, safety inspection time again... and the high brake light assembly got mashed a week ago. Texas is wierd about wanting the car to be in one piece... with working signals and the lot. Geeeez.... Thank you, Ryan
  8. GD, you are completely right. The EA82 SPFI is right there. The O'Reilley, Auto Zone, BAP GEON and NAPA gents and SOA with their 4th or 5th gen OHV/OHC and the 50mm 55mm crankshaft seal ordeal of the past 3 months has apparently gotten me off the mark. Then it poses the question: Was I ever on the mark? Ryan
  9. Looking at buying belts for our beloved 1988 DL wagon with the EA82 series 4 engine (OHV, not OHC). Angles, side surfaces and things I just can't measure or comprehend. Gates is a BIG company and I have one Gates and one Subaru belt now and there is squealing intermittently. Not cool at the school, yo. Looking at the Gates sight, they have the accessory belt including the alternator listed here with two options: 36 or 40 degree and Laminated Raw Edge V-Belts or Classical Section Wrapped V-Belts respectively http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comergent/en/US/adirect/gates?cmd=catSearchFrame&domProductQueryName=5734*&returnURL=http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comergent/en/US/adirect/gates&returnTarget=_top&gotoAdvSearch=false&CFID=42496028&CFTOKEN=45871247 The other belt which does not include the alternator has these spec choices: 36 or 38 degrees and that they are both notched, nothing about their side facing composition. http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comergent/en/US/adirect/gates?cmd=catSearchFrame&domProductQueryName=9390*&returnURL=http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comergent/en/US/adirect/gates&returnTarget=_top&gotoAdvSearch=false&CFID=42496028&CFTOKEN=45871247 Not being completely stoopid, I see that 36 is the common angle. That being said, when I did go to buy belts at the big stores (even NAPA) I was told that only one of the belts was available. Me being who I am, I've forgotten which belt was NOT available since the last week of full-contact parenting has written over that data a few times over already. Some ground up, not ground-up information would be most appreciated. -*Which angle is appropriate and why? *What type of belt composition is best? *Is this just a sick sport for parts stores to play at? Forgive a guy who was raised by a pack of wild women. Thanks, RedSasha
  10. Tried to look at your links. That was a fail, but if you'd be so kind as to forward the docs listed to me, I'd be very grateful.ryan.romig@gmail.com

  11. That's some good information! Being this close to "being finished" causes me to become excited which leads to foolish errors on my part. This has been a long time coming.
  12. Hello. With so many things done over the past few months to get my 88 wagon on the road again, I'm a bit too excited to think straight. My friend, a past mechanic has been doing most of the work as far as timing belts, seals and all as I watch, learn and hand him tools. SO..... With the covers on and feeling the butterflies for the first drive, I can't seem to get my thoughts in order. The Subaru cranks and all of that goodness, but no spark/ignition but funny non-firing-popping noise. We figure (him over the phone) that the distributor is out of synch. Reading the Clymer manual, it says to pull the plugs, put my finger over the plug hole and turn the engine at the crankshaft. That would be great if my arm/hand bent and twisted that way while at the same time covering the hole perfectly. I do feel the intake suction (I think) but not clear on the rest of the strokes. (ho-hum) I do have and did use the compression testing gauge dry (w/o oil) and turned the crank a bunch of times without registering any compression. Same for #3 and went to the driver's side to test and saw a negligible bump up then drop. Short of pulling the valve cover on the passenger side to watch the valve train do its dance, What should I do? My kids want to get back in Sasha Car with the dogs and go adventuring again. Any wisdom is more than what I've got. Thank you in advance, Ryan
  13. With my 88 DL wagon having a timing belt disintegrate with the family aboard, my trusty Loyale humped us home at 23 MPH. That's some awfully great news in my opinion! My family mechanic said that was all she wrote with her. Even though I know that the EA82 is a non-interference engine, my wife believed him over me. Hey-- she still shares the bed with me, so I'm letting it slide. Subaru of America has dropped any acknowledgement of the pre-90's Subarus as I couldn't join any of their "family" clubs on the website. Trying to get parts has been a 3 month ordeal. (WAH!) This past Thursday morning, Subaru of America customer service was again "helping me" find the right Crankshaft Seal. Having given the last 8 of the VIN, and being asked to hold while the parts people were summoned to my aid my cheeks began to ache from the silly smile and anticipation that having gotten 3 WRONG ones, it would be easy to get the RIGHT one. As it was only the first of the wrong numbers was offered up. In my effort to be useful, I offered my engine tag number: EA83AA3AC, one of millions I am sure to have been made from 1985 to 1994. Would you believe the representative informed me that the engine WAS NOT A SUBARU ENGINE? I began to laugh until my side ached a bit. The lovely lady that she is informed me that there was "NO SUCH THING AS AN ALPHA-NUMERIC ENGINE". That's rich! I further asked for my own amusement what she figured it might be that would have cast aluminum valve covers fit so perfectly and wear all of the badged Subaru bits without any modification? "Sir, it must be an after-market engine. I can tell you fer certain that the engine in your car is NOT a Subaru engine!" Oh, good people of Subaru, PLEASE help out your staff with a few trivial bits of information.... Though there is a 4 series and a 5 series engine (one with OHV and the other with OHC and having 55mm and 59mm crankshaft seals respectively as far as I understand) there is apparently NO INFORMATION in the SOA computers. Having laughed myself sweaty with the irony, I found through Google a distributor of NOA oil seals who'd sell me the part for $6.83. "How many of those do you want, sir?" my answer of just one got me the minimum order is $50 statement and was off again. Would you believe that it took NAPA 5 minutes to cross-reference this seal? I've been installing nothing but the OEM SUBARU parts since welcoming Sasha Car into the family. This wild goose chase has me questioning my desire to only use Subaru parts and work with Subaru dealerships and Subaru of America. Can you blame me? Three months of chasing and foolishness versus five minutes at NAPA. C'mon. BIG QUESTION: Where do I get my hands on a parts list for MY CAR?
  14. One Eye,

    You have lit a fire under me about the lifted Soobees. The daddy wagon is only 2wd, but I'm looking for a rig to have ready for the winter. Great looking work, well done!

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