union76

Here are some photos. http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CVBoot.htm Second the advice on going w/ MWE axles. I recall seeing another site with photos for a 1992(?) Legacy SS... I'll keep looking.

There is a (brief) discussion on one of the other boards, describing how each lead functions: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=40943

Have you tried http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/39allal13.html for your SVX?

With some kind and knowledgeable help from the boards, replaced the 1993 alternator with a reman'd standard 3-prong 70 amp unit for $80. Voltage across battery at start: 14.2 VDC Voltage with lights and fans on: 13.8 VDC The high-pitched whine has gone away. The power windows operate noticeable faster. I suspect the voltage regulator was going bad on the old unit. A new OEM 3-prong unit for the 1990-1994 Legacy is around $300. The 2-prong 1995-1999 units are $125 (you'd need to splice the plug). If you can find a reliable alternator shop that you trust, use them, or as other people have suggested, http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/13275.html has reman'd units for $79 with prepaid return of the core.

Thanks for the advice. I found a local alternator rebuilder. It will be about $80 to rebuild my old alternator (new voltage regulator and diodes). Out of curiosity, if I get a reman'd 1995-1999 Legacy alternator from 1stsubaruparts, how difficult is it to splice on a new 2-plug (vs the old 3-plug)? I am almost certain the alternator is going bad. - The initial idle voltage is 14.1VDC across battery, but it starts to drop without adding any additional load to about 13.2, and fluctuates. The amps also drain, perhaps from a faulty diode in alternator. The battery is only barely charging. - Alternator gets very hot to touch. - Occasionally, I hear a click sounding from the dash, presumably a fuse. (same sound as CEL light coming, or engaging the defrost or cruise control). But there are no CEL codes stored in memory. ECU must not like low voltage. For future reference, the part number for 1990-1994 Legacy NA is 23700AA090 (3 plug). Subaru reman'd units are going for $210+. Diagrams and specs are available in section 6 of the FSM (http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_Eng_and_Elect/). the part number for 1995-1999 Legacy NA is 23700AA34ARA (2 plug). Reman'd unts are going for $67.

Can anyone recommend a place where I can buy a reman'd Subaru alternator? Autozone quotes $120, but I've heard unreliable stories... Cold voltage across battery: 12.8v DC (battery is only a few weeks old) Initial idle voltage across battery: 14.1 v DC Loaded voltage across battery @ 1800RPMs, running fan and lights: 13.6 v DC Drain test: 4.5 amps. Does this mean bad alternator for sure? Or could it be connections/wires? Although the voltage starts out at 14.1v, the voltage becomes irregular even after taking off the load, bouncing +/- 0.1 around 13.5v. I have started hearing a slight whining sound at idle, which I recall was associated with the demise of the previous failed alternator (an alternator shop diagnosed it as a bad voltage regulator). The current alternator has been in service for two years (20k miles), after I pulled from a wrecked 1992 legacy. Thanks.

I completed the replacement of the brown ECTS unit. Having a mid-length 19mm socket was helpful. I didn't need to remove the PVC hose, but access to the sensor is still very tight. I lost about a liter of antifreeze when I got the old unit out. So make sure you have a reserve bottle on hand. The new unit came with a washer, and it was easy to thread in. The old unit appeared to be cracked at the plastic housing, although I might have caused that while torquing the socket. I reset the ECU (plugged in both the green and black connectors under the dash), waited for the all clear signal, and disconnected. It's now been running fine for the last week. Thanks for all your help.

Just to be clear, is Code 21 for the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) or the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor)? The CTS controls the temp gauge. According to an image posted in a related thread, the ECTS is the brownished colored sensor on the 1994 legacy: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75009&highlight=temp+sensor&page=2 I am confused which item I should replace: ECTS or CTS? The brownish colored sensor will need a 19mmdeep socket on a 3/8 ratchet. The price the dealer quoted for the OEM CTS is $59.66. Does this seem reasonable? Should I just go with the autozone equivalent? Also noticed the CTS appears to be common problem for the Legacies: http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=1993&make=Subaru&model=Legacy%20Wagon I noticed that the CV boot on the passenger side is completely cracked. I had a use axle put about 3 years ago. Any advice? Thanks.

Since you have an OBD-1 Legacy (pre 1995), you can use these instructions to diagnose the check engine light that's stored in memory (connect the black wires). Count the long (10s) and short (1s) flashes to figure out the 2-digit code: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html And here's a youtube video of how to do it:

Thanks so much for sharing the info on how to self-diagnose the OBD-I check engine light codes. On my 1993 Legacy, there is no current code (using the black connectors). The last trouble code stored in memory is 21 (using the green connectors): "Coolant temperature sensor or circuit" This site describes the location and how to replace this sensor on a 1995 Legacy: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CoolantTempSensor.html Does anyone know if the procedure is any different for the 1990-1994 Legacies?

It has 260,000 miles. The last time the CEL came on was about a year ago, but for only about 2o seconds. I took it to Autozone, but they say that the light has to be on for their cheapo sensor to work. I don't know anybody in the area that has a true Subaru OBD-I scanner. Plugs were installed at ~190k. New O2 sensor at 200K. Has new battery and alternator, and fresh oil change. The air filter probably needs to be replaced. I will try some CCR cleaner on the MAF. Thanks for the suggestion about the coolant temp sensor. A 92 legacy on the board had a similar problem: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31428 I'll also point out that the transition from rough RPMs to completely smooth occurs very distinctly: generally at the 3-minute mark after ignition. It doesn't happen every single time at cold start up either. Since the problem started two weeks ago, I would say 30% of morning start ups are bad, and about 90% of afternoon start ups are bad, where ambient temp=100degs & very high rel. humidity. This leads me to belief that it's not the spark plugs.

I have a 1993 Subaru Legacy L auto (non-turbo) that starts up with a very rough idle (RPMs fluctuate) and rich fuel smell. Putting the car in drive doesn't help; it will want to lunge forward. After about 3 minutes, the problem completely goes away and the idle is completely smooth. No check engine light. When the engine is warmed up, the warm-up idle is also smooth.The car starts and idles fine while the engine is still warm. Could it be the MAF? Spark plugs and wires? IAC valve? Thanks.