snake05

I did, and that is what my mechanic buddy suggested. I am trying to cover all bases. I will not be able to hook it to a lab scope until next week or so. I might be able to test the ignitor before then. I heard of a test with a 12v light grounded out to the harness on the ignition coil harness to tell if it is the ignitor or not. I can do that with parts in my garage.

The CEL comes on randomly. Sometimes cold sometimes warm, the CEL flashes at me however only when I have driven 60+ miles of highway speeds. And last weekend it only did it going uphill.

I did get the car with a blown head gasket. And I have heard that problem tends to cook the ECU. The plugs only had a 12k on them and they were not very sooty. Compression was #1-165psi #2-175. Did a valve job when I rebuilt the engine so I do not think its a hangup. I have moved the plug wires and changed them, they are now standard, and were bosch. The plugs are NGK. I have replaced the fuel injectors in #2 & #4 already, and 4 has have never thrown a code. And #2 the code only comes after prolonged driving with the CEL on. Ignitor, I will try that next if its not $$$$$$$. If it is I will see what I can do about the injectors as well. I was reading similiar posts for cylinders #3/4 and they just put seafoam in the vacum line. They think it was a carbon buildup problem. The car runs fine my mpg is 22.7-27.9, the light on just drives me nuts. Do not want to drop hundreds of dollars for a light fix. I appreciate all the advice, will keep posted.

Hello all, I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback with the DOHC 2.5, I rebuilt the engine myself about 14,000 miles ago. The check engine light came on about 2,000 miles ago, the code was misfire cylinder 1. Reset the code continued to drive it, CEL came back on and starting blinking at me, code was misfire cylinder 1 and 2. Changed the ignition coil, light back on, new ignition coil, light back on. Put new plugs and wires on it, drove it, the light came back on. This past weekend after I changed the ignition coil again (new brand), I had driven a few hundred miles and the CEL came on and started blinking, it was still running fine, no jerking or wanting to die on me. The code this time was misfire cylinder 1 and 2, plus exhaust code. Any ideas as to what the problem could be?

The timing covers have been removed and all the notches have checked. I was extremely cautious with the sprockets and marks. I had pictures of everything from the tear down and was labeled all parts. And if I had swapped the intake and exhaust sprockets wouldnt compression be off in both sides? I am using subaru gaskets and followed the haynes repair guide instructions so carefully my eyes still hurt. But it is the side the head gasket originally blew. The machine shop pressure tested them, set the valves, and resurfaced the head. Would a bad tensioner cause this? I used the original and am now thinking I probably shouldnt have. Should I pull that head back off and start over, new gasket and all?

The timing has been checked and checked again. If its off it doesn t show to be off. All the timing marks align and the timing light showed it to be in sync too. Not saying thats not the problem, but is it possible that the timing could be off but yet show to be on?

Compression is 165psi in #1 and 175psi in #3.

I bought a 98 outback with the ej25 with a blown head gasket. Pulled the motor, bought a gasket set, got the heads resurfaced, valve job, replaced the gaskets, put the engine back in the car. Started it up, fired right up but rough idle with a *ting* during acceleration. Engine had no power and threw a CEL. Computer-ed it and bad fuel injectors on #2 and #4 cylinders. Changed them. No more CEL still rough idle though. Checked the coil pack, timing, spark plugs, spark plug wires, o2 sensor, cam sensor and coolant sensor, all good. I check compression and I have 65psi in #2 and 75psi in #4. Before I go crazy and start pulling heads off and stuff I need some advice. I super frustrated with the whole project.

Its $800 for the kit which includes rings, seals, gaskets, oil pump, water pump, the cam and more. I didnt think it was terrible. The labor isnt a big deal, I have another vehicle and picked this outback up for a project vehicle. Im looking to get 150k out of it. The body is in great shape and the interior is cherry for an 08 yet alone a 98. Im definitely new to the whole subaru thing and every does say the EJ22 is a better engine. I did find a 95 EJ22 from a running impreza on craigslist not too far away for $425 with the timing kit. But now power steering pump and no a/c compressor. Are these items I can pull off the EJ25 I have?

Disturbing and hilarious.

BAM!!! It worked. I left the key to on and connected the battery and no more flashy flash. I heart message boards. Thanks guys. My brother was right when he said I needed to join USMB.

Its a 98 outback. I dont have the remote door lock trigger. i just have a key. will this make a difference? Im about to try connecting the battery with the key "on".

Its not the virgin switch!! That was the first thing I checked. The parking lights stay on unless I disconnect the battery. The switch is off and the parking lights just flash. Its not the hazards either. Bad switch somewhere? Any thoughts?

Thanks for the replies. I have been reading similar threads for a week now but hadn't come to a conclusion. I have come to the conclusion that I am going to pull the engine and get a rebuild kit. The kit is $800. Ill have $1000 into the project plus some beer for my buddies and I but my first Subaru project will be up and running. I think this will get me on the road fairly soon and I shouldn't have to do much other major maintenance to the car for a few years.