bullseye451

Well the winter is over and I’m going to try getting this running again. i still have the front differential to replace after this mess since it started to grind and almost let me sit. i looked everywhere for rodent damage using a bore scope under dash . Nothing! So it still has a ton of faults and above the odometer the readout shows: ER SS and ER HC I took the ABS harness off the controller but I still have the trans hi temp fault flashing at me.

I need to look at my ecu from what I see there are 2 different types to choose from. I'm not sure if they will both work the same. I got burned thinking I bought the right ecu from eBay and it ended up being a trans control unit. Live and learn.

Also I don’t know how to explain it but the electrical system is plain working weird. Electrical components are humming and working with key in on position in ways I never noticed before. I was going to try to disconnect the charging system to see if the alternator failed badly. I also will test the charging system. It is charging but it’s like there is a huge short somewhere. Of course this has a brand new alternator on it. It had failed very recently and the transmission started shifting badly. This happened before so I knew it was the alternator right away. A few runs with it to work then front differential failed. I have a Medtronic’s tester so i can give it a full test.

I pulled up all the fault codes I have. They still don’t explain why I have a trans temp light flashing on the dash too which happened at the same time as all this happening. I realize there are some that I had going on earlier before the ABS controller running nonstop. Well here are the codes: Thanks again

I’ll post the codes. I think I saved them before the clear.

I just received a used ECU so I will find out if I can program it. I think it more than just the ABS controller failure because the other faults all at once. This 07 Outback I got the engine running well and just when I thought it was all good the front differential started grinding and almost left me sit coming home from work. My 06 Outback head gasket failed again so I need to redo that one. Yes i resurfaced the heads and used new head bolts.

Ok I’ll try anything at this point. It’s cold as hell here so I’ve been putting off the inevitable replacing the front differential and transmission. But I need to resolve this first. Propane heater is costing me money which is fine if I can know the job is finished. I did see in other post that if the ECU is bad and I need to replace it I need to have the dealership reprogram it for me. I did see a program option in the Autel option screen. I haven’t used it yet on any of my builds. I was hoping someone has used it here and can tell me if I can do it myself. I may be a newbie to Subaru’s and their ECU systems but I’m completely up to doing anything to make it work. I’m a Chevy guy from old school point of view but have a lot of hardware and tools to do it all the right way if I just get the proper information to fix it. Thanks to you guys for all the support. It just frustrates me that what ever I touch with these cars they crap out on me. I’m almost at my last point where I just will just send them all to the scrap yard and never deal with Subaru’s again. I have 4 Subaru’s at my garage and not one runs that I can say I can trust for a 100 mile trip. My daily driver I just tested for a head gasket leak and it failed. I replaced the head gasket and heads on it a year ago. So I’m driving it with no thermostat so it doesn’t overheat. I have basically the problem years 1989, 2005,2006,2007 Outback’s the 89 is going to scrap or part out. I do like the all wheel drive. They can get through snow better than my Chevy 3500 4wd Dually. But they are useless to me if I can’t reliably drive them especially with my kids in them or driving them.

No the ABS runs like that with key on or off. I think it’s a pump or motor in the ABS assembly. The dash fault lights I’m not too sure but I believe they are showing only when running. I will need to see if after resetting the OBD faults if the trans temp and other lights came back on. I had just replaced the alternator with a known good one a month or so prior to this I didn’t bother testing the charging system but I can to be sure the alternator didn’t fail.

Hello all My 2007 Outback 2.5 auto is giving me nightmares. I just can’t stop the gremlins from messing with the car. I was actually going to replace the front differential and transmission. But when I started the car up from sitting for a week the dash lights went nuts and my ABS control solenoid started running and wouldn’t stop even with the key off. I unplugged the battery for a day or two and reconnected it, still runs nonstop. I hooked up my scanner and saw lots of new faults in the power train. So I tried clearing them out in hopes that it would resolve itself. No luck. Im thinking maybe a mouse got after something or my ECU took a dump. I haven’t replaced an ECU in one of these yet so I was looking for some help in that regard. I have an Autel MS-906 to use to try to program it if I need to. I bought a used ECU for a 2007 and it’s on the way. I’m not sure if I even need to reflash it or just replace it and hope everything works as it should. thanks

I like the video I’ll try that. That is exactly what I needed to know. The car is unknown history and the airbag controller software doesn’t mate with the computer. I think the airbags were deployed at some point in it life.

I know the passenger side pressure switch is faulty. The chime is In time with the passenger seatbelt light on the interior roof console. No pressure is on the seat. The alarm stays on and beeps around 12-15 time in strings after a pause of about 5 seconds. I’ll try to disconnect the battery longer than 1/2 hr and see if I can redo the cheat again. But yes I did everything other than open the drivers door afterwords. I do have a few extra seats but it looks involved to replace the wiring with the heated seats

2007 Outback AT 2.5 Yes I tried the seatbelt buckle 20 times in and out with the key on then turn off. I tried it in different ways and counts it still chimes. I hooked up my scanner and can see the seatbelt switch making and breaking on/off so I know that works. I reset all the codes and disconnected the battery then tried the 20 plug and unplug still nothing happened. It’s possible that it’s chiming for another reason? But I can’t see why. I didn’t want to rip out the chime unless I need to. thanks for any input

You guys know the Subarus much better than I do. I’m trying to get my 2007 Subaru Outback 2.5 non turbo running again. 1. I finally replaced my autolite plugs for NGK iridium and the engine cam to life. Unfortunately short lived because now it’s back to low power under acceleration from idle. 2. I had replaced the Y pipe with the 2 catalytic converters and it did nothing with the autolites in it. So maybe the rear cat is bad? But I had dropped the exhaust completely with no effect. 3. I have a clicking noise under the left side of dash. It sounds like a relay being triggered every 3 seconds or so. ( It’s doing it on my other Subaru too 2006 with no check engine light on) 4. I had replaced the charcoal assembly under the left rear wheel well before and that helped resolve not being able to put gas in the tank. But it was a used assembly. I have another good used one I can put in if needed. 5. So new wires, coil, plugs, air filter, front cats, alternator / battery tests good. thanks for your help

I will have to look into the axel theory but it just doesn’t make sense to me that it would cause a vibration without it being in drive. Maybe if something in the transmission moving while out of gear. But it did have a heavy passenger side hit.