l75eya

Yeah, it's easy to overlook the danger when you're just sitting in the car pulling, or being pulled, but just give a quick thought to how much strain and tension is on that cable or strap. Thousands upon thousands of pounds if you're giving it a real good pull, and if something gives, all that stored energy has to go somewhere, and you don't have any idea where it's going to go, but wherever it *does* go, it's going to go with some extreme force. Think of having a remotely detonated gun, throwing it spinny style up in the air, and then setting it off. No clue where it's going to shoot, but regardless of where it shoots, it's not going to be safe... But to tie this back into what you are thinking about doing, if you're like me, I don't think you're going to be the 911 recovery subaru getting every stuck vehicle out of it's hole. Just keep the stuff in the car, if you see somebody stuck, offer a helping hand, explain to them that there is a possibility to damage their vehicle, and if they agree, be careful. This is why whenever I see somebody that needs some help, unless they're in a car that is equally as hoopty-looking as my car or worse, I won't offer any help that may end up damaging their vehicle. Btw on a side note, some lady in a 2011 Charger backed into my Loyale in a parking lot. Split her bumper and spiderwebbed the paint. Did nothing to my bumper. Hoopty 1 Mopar 0. Also: That is an AWESOME rig up there....

Is there any thread that leads to a bit of an explanation about how to actually utilize the ability to raise and lower the ride height? I read about it in my chiltons but it was like chinese to me.... I'd like to lower mine in the front and raise it in the back..

Merry Christmas everybody! I hope we all here had great holidays with family and/or friends, and if there was anything not joyful about your holiday, just remember that good things come in waves, ride the negativity with integrity and persistence, and it will lead to good things. Cheers from New Jersey.

You mean *right* before the entrance ramp ends, right? lol

I have the same idea brewing in my mind actually and already have a 3/4" braided steel cable rated for well over what the actual tow hooks on my car can handle I'm sure. Just don't yank people. Slowly taut the line and then begin to pull. Be aware that if you have a 5 speed, you are probably going to wear your clutch away a bit, and if so, while doing so, keep your nose keen for any signs of it burning. Also, pulling vehicles can be dangerous for the other vehicle, know where to attach your line and where not to. The last thing you want is for your act of kindness to turn into a lawsuit when your tow line gouges the shi* out of somebody's bumper and they want it fixed. People take advantage of other people's kindness, and this is why people are being less and less helpful to each other (which is a damn shame). On that note, use common sense, be careful, stand clear of taut lines just in case they snap, and be safe. Also, Merry Christmas

Will be posting pictures as soon as I find the memory card I took the pictures on

I have NO MORE TICK OF DEATH!!!!!!!:headbang: :headbang: lol, for 10,000 miles the car was clacking along without a chance of being fixed but finally the weather broke (55 degrees on december 22nd ) and I had the time and the oil pump is now nice and shiny and new in there and there is........wait for it....... NO MORE TICK OF DEATH!!!! :headbang::headbang: Yes!

I'd really just loosen the fender and pop it out from the other side lol

Thanks for all the tips guys, I really just pull the condenser and radiator for easy access, it's not really a pain to take them out if you don't care about losing your A/C charge. I didn't even have to use the starter bump trick, I just threw a 4 foot long piece of pvc pipe over my breaker bar, put a wrench on the bolt on the torque converter, and the crank bolt came right off Jobs all done now, and NO MORE TICK OF DEATH!!! Thank you to everybody who has assured me a pump re-seal will do the trick 99 percent of the time, it did for mine. I did however just go the next step and replace the pump, but THE TICK IS GONE!!!! I couldn't be more over-joyed Pictures to come because nobody cares but I like to put pictures up so there!

*Update* Seem to be going smooth so far, got the radiator and a/c condensor out so I have some room, haven't gotten the fan off yet, I think the last guy that worked on the car (timing belts) used loc-tite or something on the threads, those bolts are hard enough to get to, and they're not budging. Not to mention the flat spot on the shaft of the fan to grab onto seems to be not very flat. Was a lot easier getting this part done on my GL. Next step it seems is to get the a/c compressor up and out of the way. One thing I'm concerned about a bit, is the crank pulley...would you guys say that the hardest part is getting the bolt off, or is it really necessary to have a gear puller to get the pulley off even after taking the bolt out? Or is it a hit or miss kinda thing, sometimes it comes off, sometimes it doesn't'? Never done that before so it's got me a little concerned. And the key thing, dunno what's up with that but I figure i'll just figure it out when I see it. Either way, back to it tomorrow, hopefully I can make some good progress (and get that damn fan off!) Cheers:)

Thanks! Just checked that out and I was confused because when the pump was shipped to me it was shipped with no seals of anykind, after I contacted the seller about that, he sent me seals seperately, which are the three I mentioned. Turns out that the pump itself has the pulley installed already with that shaft seal in place. I could see it through the little hole in the pulley, so good to know I have everything I need. Now to get a breaker bar and then start tearing into the car. Thanks for the insight!

So I've got my oil pump, and I've got some time, I think I'm going to tackle this T.O.D. once and for all (hopefully) From what I understand, a quick rundown of the steps -Remove fans/radiator (which I intend to flush out with new coolant while I'm at it) -Get everything out of my way (A/c, alt, belts, etc) -Remove crank pulley -Timing belt covers -timing belts coming off -swap out oil pumps -reverse process. Just bracing myself mentally here folks haha The one question I had; my oil pump came with three seals The mickey mouse seal and the oil pump shaft seal pictured here: and here But I also have this small black hard rubber or plastic thing which I'm not quite sure what it's for.... Can anybody shed some light on where this thing goes? I mean if it's necessary I'm sure I'd come across it while doing the job, but for peace of mind, I'd like to know in advance, and are these all the necessary seals? Just those three? Thanks guys and wish me luck lol

One day... I will do a swap, probably to a weber. I mean this car amazes me, because of various reasons, I've barely been able to do any work to the car since I've gotten it, and I've driven it across the country and back, and everywhere else. about 15,000 miles this year and all I've changed are the spark plugs.

buuuump after site redesign..I kinda got trumped while it was down!

My car is not turbocharged. ( ) While accelerating, it surges as if it is, at about the 3300 rpm spot and up. My awesomely little question is, is this phenomenon a.) Just the point with which the engine starts to develop some real power? b.) The practice of the secondary barrel in the carb opening up as I have read about? c.) My invisible non-existant turbocharger spooling and blasting my internal organs into my seat with the explosion of vtec destroying acceleration? Because if it's the secondary carb thing, I want to look into how to have that barrel open all the time (the hitachi carb mod ...)

So you *think* your hatch does it in about 18 seconds....but you *could* be mistaken and it could *really* be doing it in 2.3 seconds.

Got a thumbs up from a homie G showing off his STI to his other homie G's as I set off a parked car's alarm while going down the block in 2nd gear. Tested my 0-60 time for the first time since owning the vehicle. The clutch is eh, so I'm trying not to beat on her much. I got a dazzling 18 second 0-60 time. Beat that suckas!

I use it to grease a frying pan when making dinner. Good stuff, that.

I don't really have much to put into this thread, but here's some encouragement, it's real cool you're ripping into your own engine, just take your time and pay attention to every detail, and you should be top notch. As far as the tick, I have read (and I'm sure you have too) that some people who do a rebuild have to run their engines for a little while, maybe even rev it up a bit, to get everything to seat and/or for those lifters to do their little finicky dance before they stop yelling at you. Good luck, I hope it gets sorted out.

Just failed inspection! w00t! A big red rejected sticker is better than my out of state half torn off inspection! At least for 30 days anyway Then it's off to the "How much do *YOU* want.....to put a sticker on this car" guy....

yes!

Will everyone PLEASE stop staring at me like I just read this thread from beginning to end over the past hour and a half? it's NOT FUNNY!...... By the way, this was a beautiful build to read through for the past hour and a half. Bravo.

Totally want the GL-10 door decals to throw on my GL

Good work saving it Pictuuuures

Try pushing on each corner of the car to bounce it. Maybe you just have a squeaky suspension calling for some grease.