raging squirrel

I am looking at various wheel options for my 79 Brat. I have considered finding rare alloy wheels with the 4x140 pattern, redrilling 6 lugs ( hard to find 13" or 14" alloys), or doing the 5 lug conversion. The 5 lug seems to have the most appeal since used 5 luggers are pretty common. I searched a little and was treated to an overload of non related information and some related info, but not much specific to these older cars. What is the most simple way of going about this? Is it mostly a bolt on swap of hubs, spindles and brakes? What about hub spline counts?

I suppose I should put this here, we will see if I can figure out how to post the pics. I am taking my 1979 Brat and converting it to rear drive only with a Metro 1.0 3cyl. engine and Suzuki Samurai transmission. I love the mileage of the Metro, but prefer the style and utility of the Brat. After serious number crunching and research, the project is feasible. I will need to shed a few hundred pounds to have a power to weight ratio acceptable for the engine. Half of this will occur as a mere bi-product of the swap itself. Some of it will come from the removal of non-essential parts and parts that are not compatible with the new power plant. This includes the original jumpseat assembly, in case anyone needs that for a restoration. After that, further weight loss will come from a variety of hand built parts as time and fishing allow. Some numbers: My current 95 Metro has a factory curb weight of 1880 lbs. The 79 Brat has an official weight of 2175. The Metro and Samurai transmissions share similar gear ratios. The Metro has a final drive ratio of 4.10:1, XFI versions (the ultimate fuel saver version) has a final drive of 3.52:1. The Brat, I believe, is about 3.70:1. The optional Limited slip is a 3.90:1. All in all, a pretty good match for my goals. My two big obstacles are weight reduction and fitting a speedometer drive since the trans has no provision. A simple drive from a motorcycle hub mounted to the back of one of the front hubs (remember, the half shafts will no longer be there) will likely be the solution since the magnetic rotor in the speedo unit doesn't care what is turning it and they really are all the same from my research. The front tire on a street bike has roughly the same diameter as the tires on the brat, so it should be accurate enough. I will be using the Metro speedo unit most likely, since I believe that the fuel injection ECU does get input from a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) in the speedo. I am awaiting my diagrams to confirm this. I am using the simpler harness and more fuel efficient management system from a 91 Metro. Depending on how this version works, the ECU and camshaft from the XFI version may get swapped in later for an increase in fuel efficiency. The XFI stuff will cost HP, but the torque rating is the same. A few enhancements to build a little more torque would get me a power to weight ratio at 2000 lbs. curb equal to my current car at 1880lbs. Three ft/lbs. is all it would take. Still no rocket, but a great little runabout for a man who commonly racks up 120-300 miles in a single day. Anyway, time for photos.

I actually be removing my ea71 and certain other parts. The car seems to run fine, but I have other things in mind. I am building a high MPG unit with my 79 Brat. I love my Geo Metro for it's mileage, but desperately need something with a bed. I need the mileage too. So by means of a Metro 3cyl., a Samurai transmission (this will be rear wheel drive only), and a serious diet plan; this is what I shall have. I hope the purists are not excessively enraged. I love the Subaru Brat, however, 40mpg (or better) is an absolute must for my lifestyle. Why not have both? I am considering using the Metro's hvac system also, since it would adapt easily and provide much better parts availability. As far as welding thin body panels is concerned, I have cut a Suzuki Samurai and a Geo Tracker completely in half and welded them back together. One was a hot rod cab build and the other was a stretch job. I recently completed a 1/2 cab conversion on my current Samurai. If you think 20 ga. is thin, start working with Suzuki stuff! Thanks for the replies. I will have to start "rat holing" spare parts! I know where there is a real nice wagon...

A note on CV boots: be sure to apply plenty of grease inside of the lobes(grooves) or premature wear/failure may result. Don't assume that the grease will fling out from the joint and take care of it automatically. This applies to any CV boot, even ATV's.

I need advice concerning replacement items with this generation of Subies. Which items are difficult to obtain when replacement is needed? I have heard that heater cores and front struts are not easy to find. What else? A heads up on other items would be most appreciated. Feel free to make as long a response as necessary. Thank you in advance.

Thanks, I knew there were folks here who would be up on this stuff. Subaru's are relatively new ground to me. Most of my experience has been with classic American pickups, Suzuki products, and severe duty offroad rigs.

If you find 3/8 vinyl, it can be heat formed to surprising dimensions. A standard size fired case from any rifle like a 22-250, .243, .308, 30-06, etc. works great as a forming shaft. This goes without saying, but since you never know who will read this, DO NOT use a loaded round! Any spent case with the .473 case head will work. Heat the vinyl tubing till it is fairly soft and slide it up the tapered case. Then cool it in cold water. The vinyl will take this size permanently now. It's that easy. This should provide a snug fit for a 7/16" fitting.

Gee, it's sure nice that absolutely nobody is in possession of such knowledge here. Seriously, not one answer? This would be useful information (for myself and others) in the event of a collision.

My plans are MUCH different than that. So here goes: Remove Subaru engine, transaxle/t-case assembly, half shafts, and radiator. Remove Jump seat assembly if still there. Replace parts using Metro radiator and engine, and Suzuki Samurai 5speed transmission. The Metro 3cyl. bolts directly to the Samurai transmission. Required items: custom engine mounts, radiator mounts, and transmission crossmember. I will also need to build a stand alone efi harness and modify the gas tank for the fuel pump. This will be rear drive only. No need for four wheel drive, I have a custom built Samurai for serious offroad use. It was a complete frame up build and vastly more complicated and labor intensive than this. This is more of a weekend project at best (outside of the wiring harness which will take a few days to do right). Metros? I have owned four of them and still drive one. I know about the valves, not as big of a problem as most think, if properly addressed. Bottom line is that I need something with a pickup box to haul baitfish and other malodorous or bulky items while maintaining economy. The Brat is the lightest platform to start with other than the VW rabbit truck. The Brat makes for an easy rear drive conversion, the VW does not. With proper weight distribution, rear drive is better in the snow or on sand trails. My 64 Ranchero was proof of that. Then there is the limited slip option too. I do intend to use the Metro XFI ecu and camshaft. This is what gave that model a 58mpg rating (along with gearing). The weight figures: the Metro I currently drive is the heavier 95 model with a factory curb weight of 1880 lbs. The FSM specs for non turbo Brat models range from 2175-2245 lbs. After doing the math, The lighter drive components along with ditching the jumpseats and all non Metro underhood items will get me very close to Metro weight. I can easily keep the weight of the few hand fabbed conversion items to less than 10 lbs total. The thinwall 4130 tube crossmember will weigh less than 2 lbs. The factory engine/transaxle mounts are aluminum and will be reused. Remember, the engine only produces 60 lb/ft of torque, no need to us 1/4" plate for the mounting tabs. There are many other items than can be replaced with parts of my own manufacture to get me well below that 1880 mark. Non structural parts. I can later address those in my spare time. Not my first trip around the block with altering a car or truck. A tremendous amount of thought has gone into this over the past several months. I cannot, however, reach the early Metro model's weight of 1650 lbs. So it will not be a ball of fire for sure. Merely adequate transport at a minimum of operating expense...and much cooler than my Metro!

$100 or 100 lbs.?

5 speed hi/lo. I am looking into a Metro 3 cyl conversion and am calculating finished vehicle weight to see if it is feasible. Always wanted a 50mpg Brat! I have found a reasonable way to build it, but overall weight will decide if it will work. Thanks.

Does anyone here know what the 5 speed d/r transmission weighs? Anyone shipped one? I need to know for a project I am planning. Anyone got one laying around that they could toss on the old bathroom scale? Thanks in advance.

I am wondering which body panels, doors etc. that the 78-81 Brat shares in common with the sedans and wagons. With old Ford Rancheros, I know that the rear quarters are the same as the wagon, but not the sedan. I am wondering if there is similar interchanges now that I am in the Subaru game and needing spare parts. I do know that the front fenders and hood interchange, but don't know about doors, glass, tailgates, or rear quarters. Info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

No numbers yet, I think it would be fairly simple to find those through any parts supplier that carries soobie parts. I plan to look up a few vehicles that came with the EA 82 engine. Loyales seem to be one of the common models.

A couple of recommendations here from someone who has actually built things crazier than what you are considering (honestly). Chevy fan or otherwise (I know how vicious brand loyalties grow), I would ditch the 350 in favor of something else. I made similar comments in another thread recently. Physical dimensions are the reason. The Chevy small block weighs between 525-575lbs. depending on configuration. A Ford 5.0 runs about 435lbs. and is noticeably shorter, narrower, and has the distributor in the front where it won't have clearance issues with the Brat firewall. The Ford trannies are usually shorter too to help with driveshaft issues that arise with short wheelbase rigs. Other options are the 4.3 Chevy (only 10 lbs. lighter than than the Ford v-8 though), Buick 3.8 v-6 (some came with superchargers!), the Ford 3.8 v-6 (only 300 lbs.), and the 62-64 Buick/Olds. 215 aluminum v-8. For some reason the Buick 215 weighs 318 lbs. and the Olds. weighs in at 350 lbs. All of these engines will fit easier than the 350 and can be built to power levels ranging from good to outstanding. If you want a mud/sand racer and sheer horsepower is a must, guys have got into the 1000+ hp realm with turboed 5.0's running as little as 11 psi. But that gets real spendy and destroys trannies, t-cases, and axles! I like the idea of a Samurai frame. I currently have a project involving a stretched Samurai frame. If you wish to see photos of the frame modifications and a description I posted it on Pirate 4x4 and Zuwharrie bbs. Search "Project Scrat" on either site. You will need to be in Suzuki section on Pirate though. Just one more project I need to finish if the snow ever lets me finish building a shop! The early Bronco frame would be great if you go with Ford running gear. You would be looking at very little modification. Mostly a body swap and wiring, the wheelbase may even match (haven't checked). The Ford axles will take much more abuse than the competition too. The front axles had the "reverse cut" ring and pinion. The reverse cut, commonly known as "high pinion", is about 30% stronger as a front axle application. There is a benefit in terms of driveshaft angle too. Ford also spec'ed higher grade alloy in their axle shafts. But beware that early Bronco stuff is getting expensive. I have done several 4x4's where I either lengthened or shortened the frame and body both. If you have any questions, send me a PM and I will try to answer them in a timely manner. I don't access the internet every day, but do check my messages when I do. I will be glad to help.