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Everything posted by MaryB

  1. Need some help after our actions did not fix the problem: Outback got an oil change and check before a trip in September, at 135K miles. For the first time I experienced the car not shifting into lower gear when accelerating up a hill on the highway. The RPMs went up, but no downshift. I slowed down and the problem did not return. Two weeks later the car died at idle in drive on an incline and threw code p0028. Car started idling rough at a stop or when in reverse at very low speed. Sometimes it died but restarted fine. We found some moisture in the spark plugs and tried removing. Ended up breaking a wire so we took it to our trusted mechanic for new plugs and wires. After that the car performed well for two weeks until last week on a trip in the foothills. Threw the p0028 code while on a straightaway, but the idle problem did not return like before. We cleared the code and chose to install a new variable valve timing control solenoid. We also cleaned the switch. The code is gone but the car is again idling rough and sometimes dying at idle in drive or reverse. Today we put in a new switch. Husband confirmed switch and solenoid are opening properly. But no change to our rough idle. We drove it around the block, it did not throw a code. What is our next best option?
  2. mechanic found an air leak at the hose going in to the air induction system, affecting the MAF. The hose was installed in the wrong configuration, allowing a crack for air to get inside. It's a big 4" tube. To be clear the symptoms started before he replaced the spark plugs a few weeks ago. We really don't know why the problem presented it the way that it did. He fitted the hose correctly and tightened the clamp. That's it. There were no other codes. Test drive was smooth and wonderful. Yay.
  3. He replaced the oil with Napa brand and Wix-made Napa brand oil filter.
  4. and now it is time to mention my husband changed the oil and filter out before our September trip. I will ask what oil and filter was used. If he did not go with synthetic and high quality filter I will suggest doing so today.
  5. thanks for that clarification. When I found that description matching mine (rpms shoot up, p0028 code) I was hopeful someone else diagnosed what I am experiencing. Oh well.
  6. doing additional internet research and came across a 2008 Legacy with the same symptoms: p0028 and rough low idle This guy also suggested rough idle/stuttering is now showing up on 2.5 engines like ours and suggests “dropped” exhaust valve guides
  7. will ask for cylinder inspection this Friday at trusted mechanic's shop, along with ignition component checks. Husband believes this is an ignition component problem too. Timing belt replaced two years ago, at 108K miles. Transmission fluid and radiator is < 1 year old. OEM spark plugs and wires, installed by trusted mechanic, and symptoms disappeared after mechanic installed new plugs and wires. Shifting to N causes the idle to rise a bit and steady's it out to be smooth, and does not stall out. No other codes to report. We've owned this car since August 2015.
  8. confused? We checked these items in September. Engine oil level is full. Transmission oil was replaced about this time last year and is good.
  9. Driving around town or on the highway we hear a sound like a wear indicator on the rear brakes, definitely not from the engine, and only occurs while the car is in motion. The sound will start up whenever - at any speed, temperature, or length of driving time. The sound always stops if I tap the brakes - but sometimes starts up right after the tap, or not. The brakes are just over a year old and look good. The car was in the body shop for a panel replacement on the left rear side last winter - the noise started afterwards. Just put four new tires on for winter too. Didn't change anything. What should we focus on when inspecting our brakes and trying to fix this annoyingly loud noise? Thank you.
  10. My car was in for body work after being bumped in our last snowfall of the season. I drove out of town before it went in for body work - and took it into a service shop after I heard a grinding sound. They secured the engine cover and bent the exhaust up off of the drive axle. They noted the left rear sway bar is bent against the exhaust pipe. The sound disappeared and I drove home with no problems. The muffler assembly is now replaced, plus left front fender, back hatch, back bumper, new battery and front and back lights on the left side, plus other bits of body stuff. Looks great now! I got the car back today and drove it on our rural highway. The road gently turns left and right and I started driving at 25 mph in town accelerating to 50 mph on the highway, I heard a sound about 10 minutes after I started. The sound is intermittent and doesn't stop immediately when I slow down. The sound then disappears when I am moving less than 45 mph The sound is like a ringing or like keys jangling and it sound like its coming from the front of the car when I put my ear out the driver's window, not sure which side. Its not the same sound I heard before the body work. It definitely is heard at a higher speed. Otherwise the car drives fine. I didn't check gear oil yet, I will try that tomorrow. Thanks for your advice!
  11. we did not find a fix yet, but I'm motivated. Got new tires last week that are a lot quieter so the jingling keys problem is now louder than ever. Checked front brake pads today, finally they are ready for replacement. Maybe replacing them will get rid of this awful jingling sound. Pads were definitely NOT worn out last spring.
  12. 2001 Forester, 170K miles, greatly loved by our family. Has a problem with temp gauge and ? Head gasket replaced in 2003, along with water pump. Belts look normal. Coolant has not been flushed in a couple years, this car isn't heavily driven. I checked messages and could not find similar problem with our symptoms. On a hot day this week (over 100 deg) Forester temp gauge went up a couple notches from normal with the a/c on while going up a hill in our Sierra Nevada neighborhood. Temp gauge returns to normal when I turned off a/c. Coolant level was OK, added a little water. Oil level was 1/2 qt low, added oil. Fan operates fine. Drove it again early this morning and gauge reported normal while going up country. Came back downhill. Temp gauge notched up again when I returned uphill again at noon, and yes, it's hot as heck again today. Temp gauge never got close to red area. We will test the thermostat, other advice?
  13. thanks for the advice about the flushing and burping. We probably should have taken care of flushing it awhile back.
  14. Took it for a spin just now. Cannot see any obvious leaks. Will ask our mechanic buddy to do a pressure check tomorrow.
  15. also, thermostat is an original Subaru part and it's already wide open by the time the temp is up a few notches. We're also not seeing any engine codes.
  16. checked for flying critters, cooling fins are clear. When it cools down we will dump old coolant. Should we flush with water? Then we'll add new coolant. Thanks for all the help.
  17. took the car into the same body shop today, it was all warmed up. He put the car up and we looked at the heat shield as he tapped it hard with a soft mallett. Of course there wasn't a similar sound when he did this. Nothing appeared loose. This guy is the best there is and his reputation is fantastic in our community. He also blew out any rocks that were stuck in between the shield and the pipe (I live in the Sierra Nevada and take my Forester into the wild) Then took the guy with me on a ride -- could not reproduce that darned ringing. He said it may be the catalytic converter that was damaged when the muffler was pushed forward during the accident. We're going to keep an ear on it and see if the problem pops up again. Maybe
  18. Hi, I am looking for a good mechanic recommendation here in Newport Beach or Costa Mesa, CA for my 2001 Forester. It requires 60K mile service and the additional recall service. Thank you! Mary