craigmcd

Thank for the tip. We live in Maryland, top of the Chesapeake Bay. They salt the roads, but not very often. I recently did have a huge problem getting rear hubs off the knuckle, so I know things can be frozen on pretty good. I'll be doing this job in the next week or so, need a clear weekend day.

Thanks again, I will check out that bearings. I will do this job in the first week of December I think. Gotta order parts soon.

Thanks for the tip with the ball joint. I think they are different in 2018. The first step (which I missed) is to use the OBD scanner, and in the menus, select to release all the pressure. What happens is that the parking brake electronically unscrews itself to release all pressure off the rotor. Then you do the brake job. At the end, you use the scanner to reset the electronic parking break to normal position. The guy I was working with showed in a good trick to mechanically release the EPB with a socket or allen head. Good hack for sure, I used it several times. I ended up at the dealer trying to get all the dashboard lights off. That is why with the newer cars I just want to make sure I am not stepping into the abyss.

I recently had a whole super negative experience when DIY replacing the REAR hubs and CV axles on this 2018 Outback. The electronic parking break needed to be reset by the dealer and other issues. It was costly. As a result, I am a little gun shy to replace the front axles on this Outback. Q1 - is it advisable to get an alignment after an axle replacement? Q2 - is there anything which needs to be turned on, shut off, reset or otherwise completed with an OBD2 scanner when replacing the front axles? I have a decent scanner. Q3 - I have done front axles before on Subarus, but is there anything I should be preparing for or anticipating before I start with the nuts and bolts ? (insert your sage advice here) Thanks, Craig

I purchased a Gearwrench scanner tool (GWSMARTBT) for $145. It promises to reset the Electronic Brake System. After that I should be able to clear the codes and dismiss all the warning lights on the instrument cluster. If not, then I will have to remove the EBS gear units, loosen the parking brake tension, and drive the car to a Subaru mechanic with the professional scanner. Worst brake job ever.

Oh boy, I didn't see that coming. I have done a lot of brake jobs in my life and never ran into this before. Definitely not DYI friendly.

Hi Everyone. I am tired. My 2018 Outback was in the garage for three days and I am doing the work, and I am too old for this BS. I replaced both rear CV axles, both hubs, both rotors and the brake pads. The goal was to correct a grinding sound in the rear. One brake pad was worn to the steel, but otherwise would be quite. I think the noise is from worn bearings after 98,000 miles. As a tangent - I could NOT remove the hubs from the knuckles on the car, and eventually removed the knuckles entirely and took them to a machine shop to be separated. It took them over an hour on each knuckle to part them - paid $240. Once the knuckles were removed, replacing the axles was a no brainer. The frozen hubs cost me a lot of time on the hoist. When the repairs were complete, the parking brake was locked, and the Outback would not go forward or backward. I friend was near (long story) who had experience in this, and we removed both rear tires, removed two small bolts, and removed the 'motor gear unit', exposing a star pattern stub. He turned this and released the parking brake pressure, and on the hoist, both rear wheels spun freely. I drove home, but unfortunately all the nasty indicator lights on the dashboard were on, including "Brake", and "Park" indicator lights. I got home - car drove fine if you didn't look at the dashboard. I unplugged the negative battery terminal and left it overnight. After a good 16 hours I started the car. It would drive forward and back, and the Brake light was not illuminated. I thought 'good', we are making progress. While the Brake indicator light was off, many other systems such as Eye Sight were NOT engaged, and all those warning lights are ON. I pulled up on the electronic brake handle, which had been off (not illuminated or the brake set), and pulled it up to set the electronic brake. It set the brake, making the Outback immobile, and now it will NOT reset to release the parking brake. In summary of the current situation: New brakes, pads, bearings and CV axles. Outback electronic emergency / parking brake engaged, and the car is immobile. Neutral battery terminal off. When driven to house from garage, all the major systems were disengaged, but the car drove normally. I didn't try it, but I am sure cruise control would not engage with all these indicator lights on. So, how can I correct this ? At this point it looms a pretty significant problem, hopefully one of you mechanics can help. I do have an OBD reader and can reset some codes. I have not looked at that yet. What do you think smart people? I need the car now and am at a loss. Thanks, Craig. PS: I am saving you a lot of reading by skipping over significant parts of this story line. What I did write is accurate and to the point.

My daughter has a 2013 Outback with a 2017 four-cyl engine, which runs good and is reliable. Her mechanic, who is newish to her, has recommended a "fuel line flush". I can understand a brake line flush, or a radiator flush - but I have never heard of a fuel line flush. It seems to me that is happening every time you drive. It sounds bogus to me, and fairly expensive. She did not say anything about a fuel filter, which should be changed periodically or as indicated by poor engine performance. Is this guy trying to make a boat payment or what? He is also recommending a oxygen sensor replacement in order to solve an engine code problem - which kind of points to the catalytic converter, but he thought he would start with the sensor. He quoted $600 for both services. What does the hive mind think ? Thanks, Craig

We are looking at using a U-Haul U-Box, which is a large container which we would load, and U-Haul would transport across the country. I am also looking at a 6x10 trailer, which is a bit smaller than most. I agree with you all, and have communicated to my daughter that any problems are magnified by having the trailer along. To be fair to my daughter, she has already gotten rid of a lot of her belongings, and is only bringing what is really important to her. She has sold several large family heirlooms already, including a whole dining room set. Thanks for the ideas and help.

A true comment: The UHaul trailer is 900-1000 lbs heavier than a similar Wells Cargo trailer. The trailer purchase would be about $4200 for a 5x8, or $5800 for a 6x10. The bigger one is 1220 lbs.

Thanks Ido, good considerations. I hadn’t really considered buying a trailer mostly due to logistical considerations, but it is possible. I will go look at some locally tomorrow and get an idea. My son, who is a Navel officer gets moved a lot, and he purchased an enclosed utility trailer to pull behind his Subaru Ascent Touring. Works great for him. (We are an all Subaru family). Lots to think about. I am not wild about the combination. Anyone have any thoughts on calculating the weight? Do I need to figure the people and cats in the cabin? Or just the load behind the car? Thanks much. C

Yikes - that sounds bad. Out of curiosity, when you replace an old CVT, what do you replace it with ? Are there newer models that bolt right in and work ?

Thanks - good point that the trailer weight is five times the payload weight. Hadn’t thought of that. Any other opinions out there ?

Hi everyone. My daughter will be moving from Colorado to Virginia at the end of August, and needs to pull a trailer with her home goods with a 2013 Outback, 4 cylinders. At the end of July the car will be fitted with a new engine block, but all the original external components (oil consumption problem in a different thread). It is three days of driving for sure. The transmission, etc have about 114,000 miles. Tires are good. The car towing capacity is 2,700 lbs, and the tongue weight is 200 lb. The class ll hitch well exceeds those requirements. The UHaul trailer is 6 x 12, and has dual axles. The trailer empty is 1920 lb. That gives her a trailer cargo weight of 780. (2700 - 1920 = 780). She is not moving that much stuff, the problem is a queen size bed is large and doesn’t fit in the smaller trailers. She has other large bulky things as well. She figures the load at around 600-650lbs. Her estimate is pretty good because much of her stuff was bought online and she can go back and look at the shipping weight. Let’s assume the trailer and cargo are right at 2700 lbs. The trailer has onboard hydraulic brakes. Question 1) Is this long trip advisable ? Question 2) In calculating the weight, do we also have to include the two people, travel bags, cooler and two cats? All of that would be about 370 to 430 lbs ? If so, then the trailer cargo weight goes way down to about 380 lb. My big concern, besides safety, is overtaxing the Subaru, particularly this new engine block and old transmission. Overheating could be an issue as well. What do you think ? PS: renting a UHaul truck with a trailer to pull the Subaru behind is crazy expensive. Thanks much, Craig

Thanks for the reply. Quick follow up. I believe this engine calls for 5W-30. When you say thicker oil, what would you suggest? Second: Can you expand on the "engine is being damaged" light? I have always understood that when the oil light comes on it means low oil pressure or that the oil pump has failed. I believe in our manual it says to pull over immediately and tow it to the nearest dealer (which almost no one does). Audrey tops off the oil and the light goes out. I appreciate the response. C