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Zekeuyasha

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  1. Zekeuyasha
    Thanks grossgary, depending on what my dad decides to do with the car, I'll either replace the gaskets etc or just put a junkyard H6 in it and keep my fingers crossed. For future knowlege, the car is a 2003 year with 218,000 miles on it. Does anything else on these cars break? Are the transmissions known to blow up? Trying to convince him not to get rid of the car, it's already well lived in
  2. Zekeuyasha
    1 Lucky: My car has the 3 liter H6, so the H4 problems aren't necessarily the same as the H6 problems. I hear it's a great engine and seeing as it lasted this long with my father driving it, I take that as a testament to its strength. However, the engine has boiled over twice now I think, something must have happened that there isn't a perfect seal on the head gasket. At this point what else could it be? it goes through both oil and coolant, it doesn't have the power it had when we bought it in 2007, it boiled over twice and it misfires in the morning. My original question is this: When replacing the head gasket, what else should I replace with it? Should I worry about reusing the old timing chains or just go to the dealership and get a new set with the gears and everything? Or just the chains and reuse the old gears?
  3. Zekeuyasha
    the CEL is a misfire for cylinder 3 I believe. it's definitely a misfire code but the cylinder number evades my memory. I'm pretty convinced it's a head gasket. The dealership told me there was bubbles in the coolant and that they smelled like exhaust. The leak was not as bad as they predicted because I spotted a hole in the radiator hose shooting water across the engine compartment when it was running. Replaced those hoses, but coolant is still going somewhere because I'm putting coolant in it every week. Not a lot, but it does go through coolant pretty consistently, and the overflow is always bone dry. Dad told me the temperature went into the hot zone while he had it idling a few days ago. It also goes through a quart of oil every 2 weeks or so. I'm convinced it's a head gasket. Also we didn't let the dealership do anything to the car after a $2500 bill for a driveshaft and rear diff plus a few other things while I was away. Then they want another 3 grand for the head gasket? Forget it. Metal plate on the fuel pump assembly broke so it wasn't getting fuel, happened before. So I just took the pump from a 2.5 car and put the 3.0 pump into the assembly. Fixed that for $60. But yes, I do believe it is a head gasket.
  4. Zekeuyasha
    So my Dad's Subaru I call "The Oil-less wonder" finally and predictably developed head gasket problems. Had it towed to the dealership with a broken fuel pump, they said they smelled exhaust coming from the radiator cap, says there's an internal coolant leak and quoted us $3000. Took it back home, repaired the fuel pump at home and ignored the so called gasket leak. Now I know for certain it has a head gasket leak. Cold starts are plagued by misfires and the check engine light comes on. I've decided it's time to rebuild the engine. Dad doesn't want a new car and Mom doesn't want a monthly car payment. Our options are to buy a second hand motor and drop it in, or take out the current motor, get a rental and let me have at it. TLDR: I'm replacing the head gaskets in a Legacy Outback H6 3.0, taking motor out. What else should I replace while I'm down there? I want to do: Water pump as many seals as I can reach piston rings spark plugs Question about timing chains: Rockauto doesn't seem to have them and I've seen them on google for $100 apiece. Is it a good idea to reuse the chains I have? Also are the gears made of plastic?
  5. Zekeuyasha
    Quick update: I found someone in North Mass with a 92' Loyale husk. No motor or transmission. Says he has a whole A/C system with a charge of R12 apparently. He said he'd sell me the needed condenser coil and the compressor (which is good to hang onto) for a hundred bucks. I'm going up there Sunday to get the goods, so I'll start documenting what I'm doing in this thread. Possibly with pictures! What I'm going to do is install condenser, get a new receiver dryer and tip out all the old R12 compressor oil into a bucket. Then I'm going to do the conversion with an off-the-shelf R134a kit. Comes with 3 canisters filled with 10 or 11 ounces of R134a each, along with 2 ounces of compressor oil (POE) and what they call an O-Ring sealant, which would stop up any leaky O-rings in the system. Since I've been driving the car with open lines for so long, should I expect any difficulties? I doubt something got in the lines because I unplugged the electrical lines from the compressor, so even if I turned on the AC switch in the cabin, the compressor wouldn't work. Thanks for the help guys!
  6. Zekeuyasha
    I'm getting my car ready for a long cross-country drive (mostly cosmetic things and getting it to my standards) The biggest thing I have to do to it is repair the air conditioner system. Here's the deal: I got into an accident and destroyed my condenser coil that sits in front of the radiator and all of my R-12 coolant blew out. What I want to do is get a new condenser and convert the system over to R-134a instead of pulling R-12 out of old window air conditioners at the junk yard. There is a lack of parts that I need. My uncle tells me I'll need a dryer to clean all the moisture out of the open lines. And I also need a condenser coil. The online retailer that I've been going to for parts to my car does not carry condenser coils. There are 2 at my local auto parts junkyard, what is the consensus to using junkyard aircon parts? Would it even be worth it? Are there any condenser coils from other cars that would fit in my car with little to no modification? Like how certain Nissan Maxima alternators fit? Looking online the very few retailers that do carry those coils are asking way over $100 for them. How difficult is switching an old system over to 134a? Is it reliable? I don't expect it to reach negative 40 in the car on a 120 degree day. I'd like to know how much refrigerant oil to put into my OEM compressor, and are there any brands that I should stick to? I read in another topic that NAPA sells universal 134a conversion kits so i'm probably going to do that. Anyway thanks for reading and thank you for helping me out!
  7. Zekeuyasha
    Thanks for your help guys, I'm getting started with taking the engine out tomorrow. I'm not at all worried about rod bearings because the car's always had oil in it, like I said before, time is not a restricting factor. Trying to stay positive on this job, it'll be hard and I'll probably curse (a lot), but I'll get it done. I'll try to take photos and make a guide out of it, it's about darn time I gave back to this palce =] Wish me luck guys!
  8. Zekeuyasha
    Thanks for that, I'll have to read that website thoroughly. The radiator boiled over and it had been "burning" a lot of oil and a lot of coolant. I didn't want to say it was the head gasket and we had already sank some money into it replacing a driveshaft and miscellaneous other desperately needed repair work. Dad just doesn't want to spend any more on it. I've seen the bolts on the timing cover and they look like a nightmare.... I don't exactly know what the gasket is doing other than the dealership found oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. I don't hear anything abnormal like the sound of a cylinder detonating. Mom said it doesn't have that "Batmobile" acceleration it used to have when they bought it 100,000 miles ago...
  9. Zekeuyasha
    My old man's car blew its head gasket according to the dealer. So in an attempt to save a few mortgage payments getting this car's gaskets replaced in a dealer, I figured I could do it myself. Now, I'm no slouch in the mechanic department; I'm wondering if any other members here have done the head gasket themselves on an H6 EZ30 motor. The repair industry calls for 14 hours for each head gasket and I know that there's not very much clearance at all in the engine compartment. Provided the heads are not damaged (the rad did boil over) I could potentially save a lot of money. The labor is not something I'm fearing. TLDR: Head gasket blew on an H6 3.0 (EZ30) engine. I want to replace the gaskets myself. I have an AllData printout of what i need to do but: Do I need to take the engine out? Do I need any special tools? Any tips from the pros? what to look out for, what not to do etc. Thanks a lot in advance, wish me luck!
  10. Zekeuyasha
    Thank you guys so much.I honestly don't know a thing about painting and I want to do a good job on this. The hood is going from sky blue to rio red And the fender from sparkly misty dawn hahaha thanks guys
  11. Zekeuyasha
    Anyone know of any bolt-on compatible condenser coils or where an oem coil can be found?
  12. Zekeuyasha
    I have decided to put a clear coat down just to make a good job of it. What kind of clear coat do I need for acrylic lacquer paint?
  13. Zekeuyasha
    does that mean I should sand it all the way down to base metal?
  14. Zekeuyasha
    As you can see in my profile photo, the paint on my car could use a little co-ordination. So I bought a pint of Subaru Rio Red (Called High-Tech Red by the paint company) in a "Ready-to-spray" can. It says on the can that no reducers are necessary, but do I have to add anything else to the paint? I want to just rough up the paint that's currently on the car now (Hood, fender) and spray over it. My other question is what kind of clear coat would acrylic lacquer paint require? My end goal is just to make it red. Close enough that you can't notices at 25 MPH that the car is in fact two-toned. I can take better pictures of the paint on the rest of the car. Thanks in advance!
  15. Zekeuyasha
    Double check your vacuum lines for leaks or perished hoses before you start tearing the engine apart again, and just to be safe clean out the MAF meter with the appropriate cleaner
  16. Zekeuyasha
    I can second rcrad94. Miles Fox's "The Art of Subaru Maintenance" saved my roast when my timing belt snapped on me. The EA82 is a pretty simple engine to time (it was my first timing belt experience) You will know if you're off by a tooth if you mess up, but the problem rests in figuring out which side of the engine is a tooth off I took everything off my car when I did mine, but I think you can get away with just removing the alternator and working around the A/C pump and its mounting bracket. You'll still need to take the radiator out and the clutch fan on the water pump though. I found it difficult getting my rattle gun out after unscrewing the crank pulley as it got itself stuck between the hood latch mount and the screw T.T Good luck!
  17. Zekeuyasha

    Just finished replacing my timing belts! Finally!

  18. Zekeuyasha
    I think this topic can be closed, actually.
  19. Zekeuyasha
    wiggle the brake disks and check for any play in the ball joints
  20. Zekeuyasha
    Yeah scoobiedude, we've been diagnosing my problem on the thread for a while now. Which leads me to the next point: Thank you all for helping me, I greatly appreciate the help! USMB saved my rump roast yet again. It was the driver side timing belt that let go. So the distributor was not spinning, the crank angle sensor was not picking up rotation so it didn't send a spark. Shout-outs to: Man on the moon, mikaleda, zukiru, John in KY (lol on the running on 2 cylniders bit), Gloyale, NorthWet, Mark Humble, TomRhere. Skip and co. for the code translations and MilesFox for his "Art of Subaru Maintenance" videos that walked through engine and transmission removal, seals, timing belts and a tranny swap. Thank you! P. S. I'd count this as strike against Roulunds Rubber timing belts. This one was replaced before. This isn't OEM and that means its less than 45,000 miles old.
  21. Zekeuyasha
    I can attest to the timing belt. If it snaps, chances are the engine will be fine. Though they are a maajor pain to get at. You'll have entered The Brotherhood of The Subaru. Ever since I started driving my Loyale, other older Subie drivers flash their lights at me and honk and wave, its awesome. All the parts can be relatively cheap and you can do the work yourself. 175 is right, these cars don't get out of their own way unless you really let each gear see the 4 or 5k range on the tach. Even if parts are cheap and you can do the work yourself, you'll be hard pressed to get at any of them. You have very very little room to work with doing things like valve cover gaskets or radiators, I'd invest in long thin tools. I'm actually quite jealous. I have a wagon like you, but its got an automatic from the late 1970s. I would kill for a dual range 5 speed like yours! Post pictures!
  22. Zekeuyasha
    I just checked the ECU for codes. There were 2 green connectors under the hood near the brake master cylinder, ignition coil, etc. i plugged those in, cranked the engine and I got 7 quick flashes, a pause, and 7 quick flashes again, then a longer pause and it would then repeat. There is no code 77 and I have no idea what they meant. I unplugged the green connectors again, then cranked and waited. The LED in on the ECU blinked and gave me these codes in this order 11 = crank position sensor / circuit 13 = crank position sensor / circuit 34 = EGR solenoid circuit I got those translations from http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ in the "1988 and later with SPFI" section EDIT: The same information was posted by USMB member Skip at: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html Now I need to figure out what caused that. Would a skipped timing belt tooth cause those numbers or would it be more directly related to the crank sensor? (on Loyales I believe the sensor is in the distributor) I know the EGR valve is unrelated to ignition but I'm curious about that now... EGR valve: It's funny about that, because I just rotated my tires and replaced my front brake pads and rotors. My fuel economy shot up from 23 to about 30MPG and the symptoms of a bad EGR is lower fuel economy and no power. Should I look into this? All my fuses and fusible links check out OK
  23. Zekeuyasha
    thanks mikaleda, but I have a 90 Loyale, has different things on it. The engine is an EA-82 and I think all of the legacies/imprezas use the EJ series of engine, Would there be any difference between my loyale and a legacy as far as ports and ECUs go? They're not interchangeable I don't think.
  24. Zekeuyasha
    Thanks a lot man on the moon! It's pretty dark out now so I can't really check anything right this second (I'd love to but I don't have any good lighting, I'll work on this beast all night if I could ) I did not know about the rubber stoppers covering a viewport on the timing cover. How would I check for the ECU throwing codes if I don't have an OBDII port? All I have on me is a multimeter. I might be able to find a code reader on the internet however. Like in the video the stop lamp is on, the charge lamp and the brake lamp are both on. Nothing about CEL . I have taken the dist cap off and that looks fine inside. The rotor feels a little chewed up on very end of it where it hits the contacts on its way around but other than that it looks clean, no water in it or anything. How did the engine sound in the video to you?
  25. Zekeuyasha
    So my car died on the freeway a few days ago. I'm driving along at 65MPH, I have an A/T. I'm at 3600RPM when suddenly the tach drops to zero, I feel a slight lurch (like the engine went from pushing the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine) and the car rolls to a stop. I try to start again but all I get is dry cranking. I got it towed home and tested the plugs. none of them are getting spark. The coil tested kinda funky so I replaced it. no change. the car still will not start. It makes the same sound when I unplugged the first plug on the ECU (wires 43-52) Everything electrical (lights, horn, wipers, radio etc) works with the key in the accessory position AND the on position. I want to get this problem fixed quickly. I refuse to say my car is beyond repair because it happened so suddenly and nothing else is wrong with the engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb7NDFy9mxQ Attached is a video I took just now describing the situation plus my cranking the engine. Thanks so much for reading!
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