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Razorthirty

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About Razorthirty

  • Birthday 03/20/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bozeman, montana
  • Interests
    Fixing my cars
  • Vehicles
    98 Forester

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  1. Alternately, get the same motor as you have, from another car, and put it in. they are sometimes had cheaper because of their issues. Mine is fine at 190k with one headgasket job a few years ago. I like the power from the DOHC, better torque curve.
  2. You would be better off finding a phase 1 2.2. Anything from 91-97 (if its got EGR you will need an EGR motor to not have a CEL) will work, make sure you use the intake off the '98 and put it on whichever motor you swap in. May also have to grab the y pipe for the dual port headers on the earlier models.
  3. There are no u-joints in the front end of a legacy. The front wheels are driven by two CV Shafts (one per wheel) that come directly out of the front of the Transmission/differential housing (you can see them if you look down the back of the engine bay on either side) There IS a u-joint on the rear 2-piece drive shaft, i am unsure as to weather or not it is removable. I think that it is removable just the same as most are. As for part numbers, i cant help you there.
  4. My 98 Forester with the same 2.5 DOHC, it slaps pretty loud in the morning, especially when around 0* F. Warms up and goes away pretty much entirely in about 2-5 minutes.
  5. Well don't bother with the projectors out of the UrS4/C4 chassis, I don't know about the others but they are just as bad as the legacy lights... The 98 Forester i just got has Great headlights though.
  6. I just removed my original starter im fairly certain, OEM starter nut (the positive battery cable on the starter) is a 13mm, among others im sure.
  7. I unplugged the coil at the 3 wire connector about 3" down the harness from the coil, no change. Ill give the starter a shot as well. Good thing i bought a big box of fuses haha.. I really need to make a 15A breaker with some spades coming off so i dont have to keep wasting fuses. I like the light bulb idea was well. So many projects though, ill do more trouble shooting this weekend and let everyone know what i find.
  8. that is correct, it is fine when i just turn the key to RUN when i turn to START it blows the fuse immediately. i will try looking for bad wiring, that seems likely as i already had to solder the knock sensor wire back together (the code is just still stored because i never reset the ecu, i only unplugged for 10 mins to do the job)
  9. Hey guys, im a bit stumped here. 94 Touring wagon 240k miles. I was at a stop light and just as it turned green i took my foot off the brake and the instant i touched the gas the car died, as though i had turned off the key. No sputtering or cough or nadda, just dead. Had to push it off the road and get towed home. Once home i was able to figure out that the fuse (#16) for the ECU/TCU/ Ignition coils/Alternator was blown. I tried replacing it and it blew as soon as i cranked the motor over. I unplugged the TCU, alternator, and ignition coil. When i turn the key to the on position the check engine light come on *knock sensor, code 22* no biggie, its just an old stored code. When i try to crank the car over it pops the fuse instantly, my next step is to unplug the ECU as well and see what happens, that just take a bit more effort to get to the plugs on it. Was wondering if this sounds familiar or what else i should be checking. Thanks.
  10. Well i am not planning on being intentionally abusive by way of brake launches but i do plan on using the throttle to its maximum potential. Including turning up the boost a bit and i plan on towing with it as well. A trans cooler will be added to the new unit whatever it may be. A 5 speed swap may also be in its future if i come across a parts car so i can take everything i need. Both mounts are the same part number, made by Anchor, i don't remember the number, just that they were the same. I even called O'Reillys to double check that the same part number was both sides and they said yes. Not that i really believed them i just had no other source of info at the time so i went for it.
  11. The 'new' trans was out of a 92 legacy, so same 3.9. I would believe that i put the mount on wrong, as that kind of things happens all the time, does anybody feel like going out to their Touring Wagon and maybe snapping a pic of the right motor mount? Im sure i will just replace it again down the road as i dont like how it went together anyway, i was just out of time and patience at that point. Thanks for the link. My only concern with using the non-Turbo transmission is that the turbo is definitely beefier in a few spots (transfer clutch and first gear clutches at least), and would hate to just tear up the new one. If i do go that route i will need to grab the matching TCU as well as making sure about the final drive correct?
  12. I did not set anything unfortunately, i did not even realize i had to at the time. Now that i do know i have to i still don't know how to nor do i want to rip that transmission out to do anything but replace it as it shift slowly as well as 4wd not working, just fwd. Mostly this one was just a learning experience. I figure i put myself in the beginning stages of what i just changed out but oh well.
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