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czny

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Posts posted by czny

    Frankenmotor question. Searched.

    in NA Fuel Injection Engine Tech

    Posted

    i couldnt find the vin at first on the block, had to get out the degreaser and a brush i found it, its a X, which per the decoder shows its a 99 motor, (plus the vin matches)

     

    Thanks guys, im absorbing all these little notes about the differences. :headbang:

     

    hey what are these markings on the block (mine are different but this was the only pic i could find showing them, i couldnt find any answer on the web or here

     

    the 73 3 followed by a symbol. is that a piston designation?

    SnipImage-1.jpg

    Looked at my 99 ej25d block & saw similar numbers. Having been a maintenance mechanic for a die casting shop, these appear to me to be the plates they insert into the die molds to ID the production run & mold used.

    2nd transfercase rigs

    in Off Road

    Posted

    Uberoo,

    What did you do for an intermediate shaft between the d/r 5mt trans & the Nissan 720 t-case?

     

    For the 720 t-case I have all 3 shafts(inter, ft & rr) from an '84 720 PU plus the t-case. Plus more.:grin:

    Frankenmotor question. Searched.

    in NA Fuel Injection Engine Tech

    Posted · Edited by czny

    Check the VIN etching on the bell housing. Tenth digit should be a W for 1999. This would tell you the model year of the vehicle the engine came from, if it is not original to the car.

     

    Sorry for this highjack but maybe this could be useful for others....

     

    I have a 99 Lego OB EJ25 short block here with an "X" as the tenth digit. It was a DOHC & is 8 bolt bell-housing pattern. Don't know the mileage as the donor odometer was missing when I pulled it. Guess I'll find out the rod journal size when torn down for brgs/rings.

     

    Were there any other variations to this tenth digit "W" designation?

     

    Edit: xbeerd posted his "X" just as this post was being typed.:cool:

    '87 GL 4WD wagon-czny

    in Members Rides

    Posted

    Nice looking car very clean work I love it. Just an idea but what about covering the brake lines with shrink tubing?

    Thanks!!

     

    The brake lines are already covered - wrapped with vinyl tape & then electrical loom spiral nylon to boot. See posts 9 & 10.

    Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

    '87 GL 4WD wagon-czny

    in Members Rides

    Posted · Edited by czny

    After driving with straight wound Tempo springs for awhile decided I'd had enough of bouncing at every bump in the road, bump steering, etc. Bought some MOOG cc856 springs & swapped them out on the last day of last year.
    Cut them to 13 inches overall length, reinstalled with the Tempo top spring perches(described earlier). Put original length strut rods in & adj toe-in to 1/16". May try more or less toe to test for best handling soon.
    First pic shows cc856 uncut, cc856 cut to 13" & Tempo spring cut to 13".

    ZkaHAM.jpg6aYrj3.jpgHX92z0.jpg
    ..........................................................................

    Rides much nicer with less wheel hop, etc & much more controllable. Mounted Mazda wheels again to get some better mileage around town(smaller rolling radius tires).

    Dowside to drilling the hubs

    in Subaru Retrofitting

    Posted

    Arent the hubs cast iron? If so, Do you use a high nickel welding rod when welding?

    Ay heat treatment? As in, normalizing the part after?

     

    No, the hubs are steel. Steel will ring if you strike it & cast iron won't.

     

    I also have welded up around the new holes for buildup using only .030 ER70S MIG wire with 75/25 gas & they've never cracked nor failed.

    As with any welding, surface prep is mandatory before welding. Grind/sand/machine a clean surface first.

    What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by czny
    more info

    Hey I just did the same thing! Except I also resealed my oil pump and removed my belt covers.

     

    I could hear brg noises & there were more than one source.

    Plus the pre-heat tube on the front cat had broken welds making the heat shield rattle.

    I'll keep my covers on - too many vandals around here. Yes they would crawl under to cut the belts.:mad:

     

    Today:

    Replaced both front axles, front strut springs with new MOOG CC856 progressive Tempo ones. Cut bottom 1 2/3 turns for OAL of 13". Put stock length radius rods back in.

    Reset toe-in to 1/16".

    Rides much better than straight wound Tempo springs. No more choppy bouncing, pitching the nose of the car around. Ride height is the same.

    Now my low back won't ache so :lol:

    Monster wagon vr2 "Monster Sedan" build thread

    in Off Road

    Posted

    Man that is weird. I can only suspect that being an intended road going 4wd having either the front or rear wheels moving at a slightly different speed may improve the handling of the vehicle.

     

    Agreed. Some kind of dynamic of tire slip in climbing, cornering, etc. & these ratios being a happy medium. Without a biased center diff its a compromise, but a good one.

    Monster wagon vr2 "Monster Sedan" build thread

    in Off Road

    Posted

    That slight ratio difference amounts to a diameter change of 0.10" for a 28" dia tire. That's the thickness of a nickle! Bouncing down a paved road you'd encounter more deflection than that.

     

    A lot of the Nissan cv axles seem to share the same parts. 300zx axles slip into the M30 diff & vice versa. M30 inners are 6 ball cvs. 300zx inners are trunnions.

    Maxima may share some common parts too from what I've seen at the yards.

    Haven't dissected my pair of 720 axles yet, and I've got both 300zx & M30 axles to compare alongside those.

    Monster wagon vr2 "Monster Sedan" build thread

    in Off Road

    Posted · Edited by czny
    yr correction

    Thanks. I can't wait either!

     

    I've also pretty much decided im gonna do an r-200 swap in the rear, because I know I'm gonna break another STi axle and probably spit out some more clutch packs. The price difference between stronger axles and a better limited slip for the r-180 is not gonna be any cheaper than custom axles and a locker for an r-200. So I think that's the best route to go. :)

     

    What ratio R200 are you looking for? Presumably you want the longnose R200?

    81-84 280zx 2+2 5MT runs 3.90

    90-92 Infinity M30 runs 3.916(47-12) on a 4 pinion open carrier.

    4.11 R200s are out there but harder to come by. Check the hybridz forum for donor cars/years.

    Mock up in solid works, Subaru R160 Locker

    in Subaru Retrofitting

    Posted · Edited by czny
    correction

    Yes, Isuzus do use the same 6x5.5" pattern.

     

    So do the 83-85 Nissan 720 PUs. The cv shafts on these are much thicker.

    Looking into hybrid Nissan/Subaru hubs for locking fronts, Nissan stubs for rear.

     

    Edit: Because these lockers work so well, I for one would really like to see some made for the R160 diff.

    Maybe even one for the 3.90 R200 like in 83-85 Nissan 280zx diffs for offroading with IFS/IRS suspension.:brow:

     

    Keep the good work prwa101!:)

    Mock up in solid works, Subaru R160 Locker

    in Subaru Retrofitting

    Posted · Edited by czny
    more info

    Just cast it all out of iron! :D

     

    Being that these are essentially mechanical clutches with teeth like gears, they need to have a tough core. Alloy steels for these lockers are 9310 & 8620, which are then case hardened.

     

    I'm still working toward getting my overcrowded garage into some sort of order so as to help make a prototype or two. I have all the essential machinery & tools:

    horizontal & vertical bandsaws, drill press,bench lathe, horizontal/vertical mill, super spacer, tool & cutter grinder, small heat treat furnace & even a hardness tester. And surface plate for checking.

    What I don't have is the working phase converter to power some of these machines. And space to do the layout work. At least not yet.

    DIY bushing replacement

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by czny
    needed more info for clarity

    I've torched out both front & rear control arm bushings using an oxyacetylene cutting head.

     

    Just turn up the oxy a little higher after setting up the mixture to burn out the rubber.

     

    Apply heat to the rubber & center only. As the rubber is burning it expands, pushing out the metal sleeve. Clean up the remainder with a wire wheel & cup brush.

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