SVX_commuter

Early production? Oh yeah I got one. It was made in march of 96. It is a two door, red and the VIN ends in 000001. What does all of this mean?

Hello everyone I bought a 97 Impreza a few weeks ago and it has failed the NJ inspection. It has a code that says the OBD is not ready. I got a scan monitor and drove around and it says ready. Yeah! Then I shut off the car turn it back on and guess what? It says not ready.......... Everyone is telling me there is something wrong........Oh yeah? What? They say it should not do that. It should stay on after it is ready. Anybody got any thoughts? Is there a burn out battery in the ECU? I did try the green connector flashing CEL that I read about here. It did not work. I took it to the dealer and he reset it and said drive it around and come back in a week to check. I have also pulled out the ECU to look at it. Loooks great to me. I drive about 124 miles a day.

Thanks forthehelp I find the place where it goes under the AC evap thing and the connector.

It only has one cable to the throttle body.

Hello, I just bought a used 1997 two door Impreza L. The cruise control does not work. It has the cruise switch onthe dash and control lever on the wheel BUT no extra cable or cruise control motor under the hood????? Is it somewhere else? Thanks John

I changed the hub and the noise stayed. I thought it was the hub too. Yes it is on the SVX.

That is funny but I will check. The plastic guard is bolted to the body. Maybe I left out a bolt when I put it back.

It has an axle nut on the wheel bearing asembly and a spline in the diff. It is held in the diff with a cicrle clip. There is not nearly as much misalignment on the rear shafts since these do not turn corners. The only misalignment is the up and down at the rear of the car. I think the bearings may have gone dry.

I am just guessing on this. I think it is from the clutch plate wear. I think if the oid seal leaks there has to be a path to keep the oil off the clutch plate. The design would allow the oil to drain out and not get on the clutch. I think the clutch would not work well with oil on it. It would slip

I had the temp sensor go bad on a 93 Impreza. There were no warning lights. Sometimes no problems starting and then other times no starting. The sensor is suspect on all Subaru's Is it still the same for all the engines?

Cold days could be water in the brake lines. The flushing of the lines has to get all the water out. With the one man bleeder, how do you keep the air from going thru the threads of the bleeder screw when the brake peddle is released? Think about checking with another person for the I need a buddy to bleed method.

The noise gets louder the faster the car goes. It is related to the speed of the car. It is on the left side in the back as Identified by a friend that rode in the back to check it. He crawled around form teh left to the right side and checked. He says it is not in the middle it is on the left side near the wheel well. I think it is the bearings in the axle going. I am not sure how to check this with the car up.

Welcome to world of Subaru engine oil level. I have had a few Subaru's over the years and I still have two now. That oil oil is tough to measure on any of the engines. The guy I work with talks about it on his GT. He showed me how the level reads on the front side of the stick and different on the back! That is with just one pull of the stick out of the engine. I only check the level in my cars after the engine has been run for at least two hours and the car has then sat for at least four hours. If you run the car for about 10 miinutes and it's cold out all that cold viscous oil gets on the walls of the engine and sits there. It takes a long time for it drain back into the pan. Check your cold oil level after a 10 minute run and it will be low. I have overfilled an engine one time when I did this. Then the next time the oil level was high. The best way is to check it the same way and in the same place each time. Calibrate your brain and procedure so you know what you are looking at. Be consistant John

Isn't the vents attached to the tranny case? Isn't the TC between the front diff and the tranny case? The TC runs in air. I think the tranny is over filled and the fluid is coming out the vents. That is what the vents are for. Does it have a foaming problem? John

I have this problem with the engine. I have had it for a few months now. Any help would be great. The idle speed is fast at 2000 rpm after it is warmed up. Turning off the engine and restarting drops it down to 800 where it is usually. The idle has gotten rougher. Gas mileage is dropped from 26 to 22. I found the problem is with one cyclinder. I disconnected each injector and found that cylinder by battery had no change, the engine stayed rough with disconnect. I checked the coil with spare plug and spark looked okay. I am thinking this is the fuel injector. Is there any other electric or mechanical things that can work intermitant? It still runs and that is what counts. John

Help me! Oh boy do I need help. I have got about 360k miles on my 92 and it still runs. I got this noise in the back left. It sounds like a airplane prop spinning in the air. Just for the record there is no prop back there. I got new tires and the niose is still there. I changed the rear bearing and the noise is still there. It does sound like a prop plane taking off. The noise has been there for three years. It started out at a lower volume and has gotten louder over the years. These are the orginal rear axles. Can this be axial noise? Can it be the rear diff? The rear diff is posi. I just thought I would ask and I am hoping somebody has high mileage like I have on any Subaru. The good part is that it has helped me keep my speed down. I now have something that I can hear that changes with the speed when I drive. John

The oil inlet tube to the pump, was it cracked? Do you think it was pulling air thru the crack? This air entrainment may not have been low enough to drop the pressure and turn on the oil light but would have put air and oil to the bearings. That is not good for bearing lubrication. Did your rod bearings go?

I was just talking with a guy I know at a garage. He says that any decrease in oil pressure shows up in tapping lifter noise. Do you remember the lifters tapping on your engine? Says the rod bearings go first before the main bearings and then the engine knocks loud. This engine does not sound like that. The other possible problem is the oil level maybe high. Can that make this noise?

Well we not discussed that yet. I would like to get the car for less! Even if runs for a month or so that would be good. My son wants to learn to drive a 5spd.

That is very considerate of you! Thanks! The car is in Broadway NJ at a garage. 78 west to 31north clinton to washington and then west on 57 I could go get some pictures of the pan and e-mail them. I am not sure how to post here except in my locker. I have a used 2.2 in my basement with a good pan.

Yeah I hear you on that! I am still wishing someone will tell us about the ROAR.........

I am wishing someone could tell from their experience about a noise I hear from the engine. When the engine is cold it sounds fine. After it warms up there is a consistent rumble noise. Kind of low frequency and sounding similar to a lot of air moving, sort of like a lions roar. At idle when its hot it is not real loud and as the engine speed picks up it get louder. When I took off the oil filler cap I could here the rumble roar inside the filler pipe. So it is inside the engine. Any ideas? It is a 94 Legacy 2.2 with about 167k miles. It seems to run okay, has pick-up and has power. I took off the hose to PCV. The face of the PCV is all crapped up with black carbon. Looks like the PCV is clogged up a lot. The exhaust looks clean no smoke. The oil pan has the bottom pushed up and I just mention that. The blow-by out of the crankcase I checked with the hose off the PCV. This seemed a little higher than other Subaru engines I have checked and the flow looked clean. The flow went away when the engine speed pick-up. Peace John

I have no experience with your problem. I had coils go bad and it was worse at idle. The car needs air, gas and spark. Does it do it when your sitting still? Try the gas pressure maybe it's dropping off or the ignitor pack.

Thanks for the response. The only problem I have is that when it is rich it using a lot of gas!!!! This backs-up the rich reading I see on the O2. It also means the left side is way richer than the right side. I thinkthe engine will have a problem with that. The one day I made a few stops and the engine was very hot. It was a hot day. I tried to start it and it just kept stalling out. The O2 said it was rich. After awhile it ran okay. I got 22 mpg that day on the tank of gas and not the usual 28 mpg. Any information on changing the o-rings or assembly would be helpfull before I do something dumb and go off in my exploring mode. Peace

Hello, 1992 SVX, six cylinder I have the O2 sensors set-up so I can measure and read the voltage when I drive. I seem to have a problem that is getting worse. When I start the car the O2 reads very high on the left side, 6 to 7 volts and then it comes down slowly to about 1.5 volts after about 7 minutes. I think it has been doing this since I started to monitor the O2 but the readings were different then. It was only about 2 to 3 volts and came down quite quickly in just a few minutes. The right side is working just fine. I am thinking the o-rings that seal between the injector and fuel rail are bad and leaking when the engine sits for awhile. Does anybody know anything about this? What is the way to get the injector out? Can compressed air be used? I also have spare fuel rail assemblies with injectors with about 150k miles. Oh I have about 270k miles on this engine and I get 28mpg. I also have a fuel heater that may have cooked the o-rings or something else I did and I also have an HHO generator working. I have been experimenting with this for awhile. Any comment will be welcomed just don't make fun of the HHO!!!! I am just giving it a try.