Tmb9862

The 2.2l is indeed stock as has already been mentioned. I thought it might have been a mistake in their book and looked at the gaskets for the regular legacy 2.2l cars. The part numbers are the same for both. A year ago I would have spent the extra money on the dealer part off the bat but this thing has become such a rust bucket over the last winter that I'm thinking this one will do it in. Does anyone know the part number for the gaskets or make a recommendation on a dealer who will be able to get them for me? After what the local dealer tried to charge me for parts last time I went there I'm not going back. As for re-using them, they're completely toast. Thanks for the help and responses.

I'm trying to find up pipe to manifold gaskets for my 1996 Legacy Outback 2.2l 5spd. I ordered them from a local NAPA store and they came back with gaskets with three bolt holes and two holes for the exhaust. The ones I need have one hole for the exhaust and two bolt holes. It looks like the muffler and cat gaskets only elongated. I looked in their part catalag (2 of them actually) and it does show the three bolt gasket. Does anyone know the correct Subaru part number or perhaps what to ask for at the parts store to get the correct part. Thanks for any assistance.

It's a 2.2l in a 96 Outback so it's non-interface. I'd like to take the car from NY to Florida in a month and don't want to wind up stuck on the side of the highway somewhere in South Carolina and have to pay for towing, a mechanic to do the job and loose a couple days of the trip. I forgot to post the link to the kit I was looking at. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619&item=370536153552&viewitem=&category=33625. Is that the one a lot of people are using? How much more would it cost to buy OEM through your site? Thanks.

I did a search and it seems most people on here are either using theimportexperts on eBay or going OEM. I can't justify dropping almost $500 at the dealer for a timing belt job in a $2,000 car so eBay it is. Now some people have talked about upgrading the belt in the kit or just not using the one in the kit. I e-mailed theimportexperts and asked if their was any such upgrade. If their isn't am I better off getting another brand of belt? What should I look for in a belt besides OEM? Any other comments on these eBay kits?

Well a few swear words and about ten hours (including some breaks) later the new coupling is in. She drives well now with no more binding. The old one was defiantly a little burnt as you can see. If I had to do it again it would probably be a three or four hour job having learned a bit. Those roll pins suck and aren't even worth trying to punch out by hand. The air hammer got them right out and next time I'll go right for it instead of wasting time doing it by hand. The same goes for getting the knuckle off. You can play with the stupid thing all day and it won't go anywhere but the air hammer knocks it right off. I wasn't thinking straight and removed the reverse light sensor. I then spent half an hour trying to figure out why it wouldn't go into gear. Then I removed the whole cross member again and disconnected the linkage to isolate the problem. Only after I gave up an took a half hour break did I come back, look in the parts box and see that washer staring at me. That cost me over two hours from a stupid mistake. The welds nuts on the transmission mount (I think that's where they were) broke on me. I couldn't find any suitable replacement nuts and bolts in my bolt bucket so to save a trip to the hardware store I re-welded them. One of the transmission mount bolts also snapped off in the tranny. I didn't even bother with it and have three bolts in there. I'm going to have to drop the tranny to do the clutch in the next few months so I'll weld a nut to it and pull it out when the tranny is down. Other then that it went pretty smoothly and I just took my time and kept everything organized. Some of the replies here and articles on this bored defiantly helped. And special thanks to GeneralDisorder for selling me the new center differential.

If I were going to do it I'd buy a cheap car charger, cut the cigarette lighter end off of it and splice in 12v. It would probably take three weeks for the small drain from the phone to kill the battery.

You could drop the exhaust, heat shield and cross member. That's only about a half hour job and another half hour to get back in. Add another half hour if you need to cut the exhaust bolts. Then it would be pretty easy to get an air chisel in there. That should make short work of the pin and removing the piece without dropping the transmission. As a last resort if you're changing that piece anyway then you probably don't care about wrecking the bushing. So why not throw a little heat on it.

I don't know about the rest of the country but in NY we have a couple people who actually go around and check it out. They have this weird tank in the back of their pickup that measures how much gas is going in. They just drive around and cover probably 20 gas stations a day each testing the accuracy of the pumps. But... If you do the math the odds are in favor of you not getting caught. 40 stations a day of probably 5,000 in the state is a .008% chance of being caught.

Check Craigslist and eBay over the next couple months for anyone within a couple hundred miles parting the car out.

I filled up my 96 Outback 2.2l 5spd last night and got 22.5 and that's about 50/50. All highway at 65mpg I get about 28, all city 19-20. I guess I'm low for some reason.

If you have a compressor 3m Scotch Brite Roloc discs. They have to be the greatest thing ever for removing gaskets, rust or paint. They turn a half hour job with a razor blade into a two minute job. Before I had one I just used a razor blade very carefully. RTV usually comes off easially with a blade though it's 20 year old gaskets that are a PITA.

My number is ty752vabca and is not listed in the chart. A quick search and it seems all 96 Outback 2.2l 5spds had that code. From what I can gather on here it should be a 4.11. I also found a website with that number on it saying the trans has 37 teeth on the ring and 9 on the pinion which would be 4.11. The 97 is ty752vacca and is listed as 4.11. So I'm pretty sure it would work. Are the transmissions stamped somewhere so I can make sure they're both original to the vehicle? I'd love to know how you manage that. If I cruise at 60 with just myself and about 60lbs of tools in the car I get about 28 on the highway. If I cruise at 75 I'm down to about 24. This thing really needs a 6th gear.

Thanks for the information. Ill check out the numbers when I get home. As far as a short 5th gear I'm around 3250rpm at 70, I doubt it can be any worse then that. The poor motor is screaming and I get terrible mileage if I try and cruise over 70.

I have a 96 Legacy Outback 2.2l, 5spd. I don't need it but I can get a transmission from a 97 2.5l Outback with fairly low (120k) mileage pretty cheap and am considering getting it as a spare. Question 1. Is their any way to find out what the ratio in my transmission and the 97 transmission is? I can get the numbers off the plates from both of them if their is some way to determine through them. I know mine differs by one number. Question 2. The 97 has a hydrolic clutch and my 96 has a cable clutch. Are the bell housings the same where I can just pull off the clutch slave and fork and swap in the cable fork and bracket?

I've always had good luck with Goodyear tires. I had them on my Camaro, my pickup, my Jeep and now my Outback. I think mine were about $450 for the set a couple years ago. They're great in the rain and snow, road noise isn't to bad and 30k later the tread still looks new. They probably still have another 60k left in them and will outlast the rest of the car (96 with 160k on it). Additionally Goodyear is mostly made in the US or Canada.