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theburro

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About theburro

  • Birthday 11/16/1981

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  1. Just in case somebody reads this at some point and has my issues..... It was a crimped wire for the selenoid when i tightened the bell housing (that's after trying really hard to) I have since fixed the problem and everything is working normal.
  2. you cannot remove the entire drive shaft. you have to leave the front section closest to the trans in place. it ''seals'' the rear of the trans, without it the fluid will run out on the ground.

     

    but you can remove the rear section of the drive shaft and drive on.

     

    it causes no problems, except, you are FWD only, so watch out for the snow.

  3. Hey John I've noticed that you are in several of the Duty C posts.

     

    I have a question, since I'm dealing with the duty C issue right now, and it seems that my issue is going to take some seriouse trouble shooting...

     

    Can I just remove the rear drive shaft for now and continue driving with it out?

    Are there any issues with doing that? ie some other problem happening?

  4. I'm fairly certain that I didn't pinch the wires, but if I cannot get other options I may end up opening the whole thing up again... After I wrote the first post I did see a pic of a the spring in it's correct location, and I 99.5% sure it's in the right spot as well...
  5. So I just went back out and retested with the meter... 1.4, the first test I did was .4 ohms. Then since it was darkish i did the other possibility and I got 4.5 mill. Do you know what color wire it is in that b 52 pin 3 would be to make sure that I am testing the correct one. But I'm fairly positive that the one that is showing .4 is the correct one. I redid # 3 as well and got no reading at all. I fairly certain that the first time I got .6 ohms. Question: if it was a short circuit, when my dad and i were working on the problem we followed the wire that we thought was b52 pin 3 and it goes into the transmission, is that correct? That without a connector on the driverside near the top? How would I then find the short? Would I have to take the tranny apart? Thanks in advance
  6. Well I've followed a bunch of different threads about this Torque binding problem as I am experiencing it in my 97 outback legacy 4EAT. I've posted in a couple, but no answer so far, so I'm attempting to make my own thread. Here's what I have done so far. Got the code 24 and went ahead and did a duty-c change. The only thing I think could have been done wrong was putting the spring it its correct location as it sprung out when I took the casing off. If anybody thinks that could be an issue let me know. I'm not sure it is in the correct location. The fwd fuse has never done anything. I've done several atf changes. The lastest that I've done is going thru the diagnostice manual for the code 24 as follows it failed 1.4) and 3. It did pass the other ones. 1. CHECK HARNESS AND CONNECTORS BETWEEN TCM AND DUTY SOLENOID C. 1) Turn ignition switch to OFF. 2) Disconnect connectors from TCM and transmission. 3) Measure resistance of harness connector between TCM and transmission. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (B52) No. 3 — (B9) No. 11 / 1 Ω, or less 4) Measure resistance of harness connector between TCM and body to make sure that circuit does not short. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (B52) No. 3 — Body / 1 MΩ, or more 2. CHECK DUTY SOLENOID C’s GROUND LINE. Measure resistance between transmission connector receptacle and transmission case. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (T4) No. 4 — Transmission / 1 Ω, or less 3. CHECK DUTY SOLENOID C. Measure resistance between transmission connector receptacle’s terminals. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (T4) No. 11 — No. 4 / 9 — 17 Ω I am now at a loss, as I think that there is a short circuit issue and I don't know how to go about fixing it. Let me know what you guys think. I also did just go out and pulled the code again got 24, but what I did notice is that when I restarted the car after pulling the code, the fwd light was one for about 1 sec, but only after pulling the code (this is of course with a fuse in) not sure if this means anything.
  7. Well I've followed a bunch of different threads about this Torque binding problem as I am experiencing it in my 97 outback legacy 4EAT. Here's what I have done so far. Got the code 24 and went ahead and did a duty-c change. The only thing I think could have been done wrong was putting the spring it its correct location as it sprung out when I took the casing off. If anybody thinks that could be an issue let me know. I'm not sure it is in the correct location. The fwd fuse has never done anything. I've done several atf changes. The lastest that I've done is going thru the diagnostice manual for the code 24 as follows it failed 1.4) and 3. It did pass the other ones. 1. CHECK HARNESS AND CONNECTORS BETWEEN TCM AND DUTY SOLENOID C. 1) Turn ignition switch to OFF. 2) Disconnect connectors from TCM and transmission. 3) Measure resistance of harness connector between TCM and transmission. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (B52) No. 3 — (B9) No. 11 / 1 Ω, or less 4) Measure resistance of harness connector between TCM and body to make sure that circuit does not short. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (B52) No. 3 — Body / 1 MΩ, or more 2. CHECK DUTY SOLENOID C’s GROUND LINE. Measure resistance between transmission connector receptacle and transmission case. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (T4) No. 4 — Transmission / 1 Ω, or less 3. CHECK DUTY SOLENOID C. Measure resistance between transmission connector receptacle’s terminals. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (T4) No. 11 — No. 4 / 9 — 17 Ω I am now at a loss, as I think that there is a short circuit issue and I don't know how to go about fixing it. Let me know what you guys think. I also did just go out and pulled the code again got 24, but what I did notice is that when I restarted the car after pulling the code, the fwd light was one for about 1 sec, but only after pulling the code (this is of course with a fuse in) not sure if this means anything.
  8. Well I've followed a bunch of different threads about this Torque binding problem as I am experiencing it in my 97 outback legacy 4EAT. Here's what I have done so far. Got the code 24 and went ahead and did a duty-c change. The only thing I think could have been done wrong was putting the spring it its correct location as it sprung out when I took the casing off. If anybody thinks that could be an issue let me know. I'm not sure it is in the correct location. The fwd fuse has never done anything. I've done several atf changes. The lastest that I've done is going thru the diagnostice manual for the code 24 as follows it failed 1.4) and 3. It did pass the other ones. 1. CHECK HARNESS AND CONNECTORS BETWEEN TCM AND DUTY SOLENOID C. 1) Turn ignition switch to OFF. 2) Disconnect connectors from TCM and transmission. 3) Measure resistance of harness connector between TCM and transmission. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (B52) No. 3 — (B9) No. 11 / 1 Ω, or less 4) Measure resistance of harness connector between TCM and body to make sure that circuit does not short. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (B52) No. 3 — Body / 1 MΩ, or more 2. CHECK DUTY SOLENOID C’s GROUND LINE. Measure resistance between transmission connector receptacle and transmission case. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (T4) No. 4 — Transmission / 1 Ω, or less 3. CHECK DUTY SOLENOID C. Measure resistance between transmission connector receptacle’s terminals. Connector & terminal / Specified resistance: (T4) No. 11 — No. 4 / 9 — 17 Ω I am now at a loss, as I think that there is a short circuit issue and I don't know how to go about fixing it. Let me know what you guys think. I also did just go out and pulled the code again got 24, but what I did notice is that when I restarted the car after pulling the code, the fwd light was one for about 1 sec, but only after pulling the code (this is of course with a fuse in) not sure if this means anything.
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