All_talk

Its hard to see the exact color from the pics, but they look to have a slight tan tone to them, true? if so they look pretty normal. Off boost these car run pretty lean. For best power they should be a little darker. Gary

mwatt covered it while I was hunting and pecking. redundant info deleted Gary

The "power" mode raises the shift points for the transmission for better acceleration. A qiuck jab on the throttle peddle will bring it on. The AWD 4EAT uses a variable clutch pack to transfer power to the back wheels as it senses slip in the front. Default is torque split is 90 front/10 rear but will go upto locked 50/50 under slip. Gary

Just a note: Ethanol contains about 74% as much energy as gasoline (84,100btu vs. 114,000btu), so assuming no change in overall engine efficiency, you will need 1.35 gallons ethanol to do the same work as 1 gal of gas. I bought regular this morning for $2.50/gal, based on that ethanol would have to cost $1.85/gal to break even. Or looking at Mpg, 30mpg on gasoline should translate to 22.2mpg on ethanol. Just some math Gary P.S. back in college I did a research project dyno running a 3.5hp Briggs engine on Gas, Ethanol, Methanol and Propane.

Lots of info on removing it and fixing leaks here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=183 Gary

How hot is "slightly hot"? If it got hot enough it could have weakend the rings and will be an oil burnner once reassembled. I have a '87 wagon I re-sealed after overheating (and replaced one cracked head), that now runs fine but burns a fair bit of oil, but it got really F*ing hot. Gary

You might take a look at a gen 1 legacy sunroof. Gary

Its somewhat common and there is a fix, try a search for "torque bind". Gary

yep, looks like its back up. Funny, happened the same way last time it was down, right after I ask about it beong down it pops back up... Wierd. Gary

Is it down, or is it just me? I haven't been able to get on since some time yesterday, from work or home. Gary

I made up a flyer from the web site images for those who might like to spread the word. Should print fine on standard paper (does for me), but remember ink jet prints fade quickly in the sun, photo copies might be best. Those in the know please note any necessary corrections. Distribute freely Gary

Just to clarify, prices for... Attending (just looking)? Camping? Showing your car? Obstacle course/Mud pit? Saturday's food? Beer mugs? T-shirts? Anything else? Gary

Got yourself a T-leg huh Cory, very cool. Stock boost is 8-9 psi I believe. So whats your plan? Is this a driver or is the Imp getting a EJ22T soon? Gary BTW, My '92 4EAT gets about 26mpg freeway 70-80mph, if your's in a 5MT it should do a bit better (my '91 5MT still needs a new clutch so no mpg numbers yet).

The catch tank goes between the suction source(s) and the case outlet. Suction is applied to the PCV system from two sources, the PCV valve and a connection in the intake tract before the throttle plate or turbo inlet. The case outlet varies by motor, EJs and the EA82T are on the left rear top of the block, carbed EA82 use the drivers side valve cover, I’m not sure about the SPFI and EA81(T). Some general notes on building an effective catch can… Volume: for the heavier particulates and droplets to fall out you need to slow down the flow, bigger is better. Cooling: vapors will condense better at lower temperatures, locate the can away from heat sources or use heat shields. Surface area: the vapors will condense more easily on a surface, this is the reason for the screen or filter material (I think course steel wool would be my choice). Height: gravity works, a taller chamber will give more effective separation. General layout: suction line at the top, case line low but not bottom, below “filter media”. And it should be easy to remove or have an accessible drain for clean out. Gary

Well I went out and ripped up the driveway a bit... mine works the same forword and back. Locked in 50/50, no diff or clutch. Gary

The 4EAT doesn't have a center diff, it uses a clutch pack to transfer power to the back wheels, since its electroniclly controlled it could be designed to function differently in reverse, I'm not sure about that. But if it was locked in you would have to be spinning one front and one rear wheel (open diffs), is it possible that was the case? You can check is operation in the gravel... I open the door and look at the back wheel, punch it, the front wheel should spin momentarily then the back will catch. I've never tried it in reverse but I can if you would like. Gary

Dont know about ratio or TC mount issues, but the electronics shouldn't be a problem. I put a '97 4EAT from a Imp into my '92 Legacy SS with out major issue (swapped on the turbo 3.9 front diff), but they were both 2.2s Gary

Well yes… but maybe not. Consider the case of an engine with significant blow-by/case pressure that ingests enough oil to degrade performance. Turbo cars (high mileage) are especially prone to this because the oil acts to reduce the effective octane rating of the air/fuel mixture and causes detonation. I such a case you could see a slight performance increase with the oil removed from the mixture. Gary

And I thought this was going to be about you over doing it and getting hurt building the new shop. Dial up SUCKS... poor ba$tard. Gary P.S. yeah, post approval in OT can take a while, but I try and remember that the mods have lives (or at least back away from the keyboard to wrench on there Subes).

Hey Mike That R200 would still have to be flipped to work in the front so its the same as the Legacy 160 VLSD, but if the R200 VLSD unit will fit into a truck 200 or 180 front diff it could open up some possibilities. And yes, this project is a small round german car (I fear my loose lips in PM are catching up with me). I have seen that bug before, as I remember it was rear engine and he used a Porsche or Audi box with a custom pinion shaft and tail housing to drive to the front, I dont recall what he used for a front diff. I think I heard that the car was wrecked and is no longer around, bummer. But my hopeful project is midengine. Gary

I assume we are talking about the 4EAT, right? If so, yes you can swap the front diff, I just did this to put 3.9 gears in a replacement trans for my '92 SS. Some things to consider though... The gears are matched sets and you should really swap the pinion shaft too, even if its the same ratio, but you MIGHT be ok if you dont. Not only do the bearing caps set the preload on the the diff/output bearings but they also adjust the ring gear right to left in the housing, this may need to be adjusted to get a good mesh pattern/backlash, but you should be able to preserve the preload if you move one in the same amount you move the other one out. You may need to re-shim the pinion (whether you change it or not) to get the proper pattern/backlash. There are some differences in the internal parts from year to year, I note some more info here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=21482 Subaru's tolerances seem pretty good, in my case I kept the shim that was with the pinion shaft and the pattern and backlash were good without adjusting the diff bearings. Been running smooth and quite for about 2000 miles now. Here's a look inside More pics here: http://photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/ Gary

Hmmm... boosted's pic shows a hotwire MAF, and no fuel cut. Iquiring minds want to know. Gary

I had to use a big pry bar and pull the arm down, it would be easier if you unhook the sway bar (but I didn't). Gary

I had to get the needle clear of the odometer didn't I :-p. I wanted to snap the pic a 100mph but there was a curve coming up... safety frist you know. Gary

Yeah, the sender is goofy, I've checked it with a mechanical gauge and the pressure is fine. Runs about 45psi @ 3500rpm. My 300,000 mile thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37232&highlight=rolled+All_talk Gary