All_talk

Hey Tyler Teeing into the existing brake system will be a BIG problem. You will apply hydraulic pressure to at least one whole “side” of the system (one front and one rear) and depending on the configuration of the proportioning valve/master cylinder maybe the whole system (these components are not designed to be back pressured). You really should re-plumb the system into a front to rear split if you want to use a hydraulic e-brake system (which is NOT legal btw). Locking both back wheels with 4WD will lock all the wheels (and kill the engine if you don’t hit the clutch), so AWD is the way to go with that. You might look into the turn/cutting brakes use in dune buggies and sand rails, the rear brake line passes through them and blocks back pressure when the handle is pulled. If you get the two-handle type you can brake either back wheel separately for sharp power on turns (will work with 4WD), or together like a standard e-brake. Gary

You can run with one (I have), but the pulleys don’t get much wrap, especially the water pump, it could give you some trouble (like in the rain). I’d get the alt. pulley from the non-A/C car and double up, and remember to buy the belts in pairs or they’ll never last long. Gary

Results are up here: http://www.nwr-scca.org/rallycross/July_18_2004.htm I got 54 overall and 14 in class, I'll take that for my first RallyX Gary

Check the spindle/axel nut, I've had a loose one make such a noise and since you had it apart recently its even more likely. Gary

Yes, very nice work, clean. And the "BRAT" is a great touch. Gary

It did get a bit rough and deep (and I was only in the second group), the continually changing course made it tough, and I think I ran over someone’s headlight too. My RX seems none the worse for wear, though the axel that was making a little noise last week seems a bit louder now. Fourth run was my best with a 1:20.27 (I think), I’m happy with it for my first RallyX and I learned at lot, I need to find some better techniques to rotate the car in the tighter stuff, maybe a bit more aggressive with the left foot braking. I saw some people taking pictures, I would love to find one of me drifting in that final sweeper. Anybody know how long it might take for the results to get posted? Nice to see some of you guys there. Gary P.S. I was the big hairy guy with the RX

I do both Subie/VW, here's a current view of my shop... Gary

Yep Corky, that’s about where I'm at, though my temps seem a bit higher than yours by the stock gauge, I'll know more when I get the thermo hooked up (no time last night). BTW, running without thermostat made little or no difference, but it was a bit cooler yesterday, like you said, lots of variables. Gary

If the don't have Subaru blanks old Datsun/Nissan blanks should work. Gary

Any of these: Any after markets like these: I'm looking for something rally or "spoked" let me know Gary

If I get time tonight I'll rig up my 2 channel Fluke thermo on the in and out rad hoses and nail down the actual temps. Gary

Hey guys My RX is running hotter than I think it should and I can’t run the A/C pulling the pass (several miles in boost) without it getting uncomfortably high on the temp gauge, am I expecting to much? Background: ’87 RX, all stock, newer 2-core rad and water pump (changed by PO). I drive 175 miles a day back and forth over Snoqualmie pass. Flat running with no A/C the gauge reads just below upto ½, with A/C on it reads just above ½. Long climb (boosting) gauge reads as high as ¾, climb with A/C = way to close to red. I haven’t verified the gauge with a thermometer yet but my “experience-o-meter” tells me its pretty close. New rad cap made no difference, so I pulled the thermostat last night and tested it, seemed late to open and never opened fully, even at rapid boil. On the drive in this morning without the thermostat, all seemed the same (I was expecting lower temp), the drive home in the heat (suppose to be 90ish) will show for sure. I guess my question is wether the stock cooling system is really this marginal or should I be looking for a problem? I’ve got a few ideas on how to increase cooling but I don’t want to band-aid something that should be fixed. Thought and experiences? Gary

Hey WJM You might want to look for some mounting specs, most turbos are designed to have the oil inlet and outlet vertical. I'm sure there is an acceptable deviation (after all cars go up and down hills), but major angles might cause drainage issues and lead to BIG trouble. Gary

YES, Sunday.... Thanks Corky, I'm glad somebody is on the ball. I hope I can see you all there. Gary

Just wondering who is going to be there? When does the morning session start and should we set a place to meet up or will it be easy enough to find each other? I’m still hoping to make it, running looks like a no-go and even spectating is looking iffy, but I’m gonna try. Gary P.S. if I do make it over does any body need me to bring anything, tools, timing light or such, I'd be happy to help with what I have.

I'm no genius either, but I'll post some thoughts: Turbo cams differ greatly from N/A cams, so like others have said, unless Delta (or others) have a turbo specific cam I’d stick with stock. The TDO4 is a bigger turbo with a heavier turbine/compressor, it takes more flow to spool it, no way around that. Sure an open exhaust and more efficient up-pipe can buy back some of the “lag”, but I don’t know if you will ever get it all back. The stock turbo is very well matched to the engine (funny how millions of dollars in engineering will do that), and is reportedly good for around 12psi/200hp, unless you plan on going passed those numbers (unlikely on pump gas), I’d be prone to stick with the stock unit and optimize for modest power gain across the whole RPM range. True the TDO4 will make more power in the end, but there will be a price, I guess it really depends on what you want the car to do and how you’re going to use it. Garner, I doubt its you're turbo, I had my stocker out a while back to change the lower coolant line and noted it had significant play (260,000 miles) and it still boosts right at spec. And like Russ said, I think the mount of the flapper does matter. Hey Russ, I’m not sure how (or even if) the “heavy load” signal affects the fuel map, but the wording in the ’89 FSM seem to suggest it might (see pic). If the switch signal doesn’t modify the fuel map then the only boost controlled mixture adjustment would be the fuel pressure regulator (aside from the increased flow measured by the MAF). All other boost mapping would be assumed by the ECM based on relative inputs from the MAF, RPM, TPS and the like. I really wish we had more information on the ECM’s functionality, I suppose with an O-scope and enough time we could figure most of it out, I guess that’s a good argument for going to an aftermarket control system. Gary

Hey Tex I had a thought, are you running the stock "boost switch", the one that turns on the dash light? That same switch send a "heavy load" signal to the ECU that cancels the mixture feedback (02 sensor). I'm sure this affects fuel mapping, if you are running without it, it could cause trouble well below full boost, I checked mine with a gauge and it comes on right at 0 psi. Gary

I think they could make a great set of winter wheels, check out this recent thread in new gen: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18245 Gary

The cold start/Aux air valve doesn’t really affect mixture as it bypasses “metered” air after the MAF, its really like holding the throttle open a bit, the mixture enrichment for a cold engine comes from the water temp sensor. The Aux air valve works just like a electric choke with a bi-metal spring and heater element, the rotary valve is open when cold and closed when warm. I believe the valves mounting position on top of the thermostat housing is to stabilize the temp and perhaps to ensure eventual opening in the event a heater failure. Its been 50 to 60F at my house in the mornings and my RX starts on the aux air valve, but its not full open like it was in colder temps (start up idle speed is less). Gary

Though I dont have direct experience with them (yet), its my understanding that BOVs venting to atmosphere will cause idle problems with systems that use MAF sensors. The BOV opens on low manifold pressure and some cars are low enough at idle to open or partly open it. When this happens you loose some metered air and the fuel ratio go rich. Temporally plug or disconnect the BOV and see if it makes a difference. Gary

I resemble that remark I'm currently building a fiberglass dunebuggy out of parts I've collected over the years. Gary

Hey Russ If things had worked out different I might have bought your RX, but I'm still waiting to sell my 260Z and the RX I got popped up cheap, or at least I thought so, I paid $500 for mine and its not nearly as nice as yours. Either I payed to much or your cousin is getting a super deal. Gary

Yep, Vacuum accumulator, keeps your heater settings when you floor it (near 0 manifold vac). Gary

Nice, thats where I was thinking of mounting some in my RX, seems the best spot to keep them in the dash (not on it, or god forbid on the A pillar) and easy to see at speed. Gary P.S. How much boost are you running and what does your A/F read when you're on boost?

According to the FSM the “duty solenoid” maintains max boost pressure at higher altitudes. I’m not completely clear on how it works but it does not appear to function as an electronic boost control. I don’t believe it ever vents to atmosphere, it does have a port that connects to the inlet side of the turbo after the MAF. At some point a plan to investigate exactly how it works but haven’t had the time. Gary