whistler

Which brand of hydraulic lines did you get? There's a plethora of options on rockauto and the wrong part is a lot more of a pain when shipping is involved.

yeah, this one was unusual in that they listed the same party number for all brats, gls and dls 82-87, it seems that either o'reilly has the wrong part in their database for the masterpro brand (all they had in stock) or masterpro doesn't make the correct ball joint. I usually do the "ask for 1984" trick is well. it often still takes two tries to get the right part.

I did, I ground down a cheap pry bar I have from harbor freight and pried a bit harder and it fell right out. of course the first replacement I got was wrong and I had to go get another one, but I've pretty much got everything back together. I need to go get a couple of cotter pins that I thought I have and don't and I'll be good to go.

By the way bratman2, where'd the get the new brake lines for your brat?

Thanks everyone for your replies. Western washington was doing it's Spring thing yesterday (lots of rain) so I didn't brave the weather to work on it. I was worried about widening the slot in the knuckle too much if I pried on it, but it doesn't sound like that's a major concern so I went ahead and pried on it a bit this morning and the ball joint fell right out for me. I'm about to install the new axle and ball-joint. Should be good to go again soon. Thanks again!

So... my brat eats front cv joints, I'm hoping I may have finally figured the problem out, but the the most recent axle failure happened along with a failure of the driver's side lower ball joint. I'm not sure exactly what happened, but the tapered end of the ball joint is sheared off pretty much flush with the bottom of the A-arm (ie no threads on it at all) and I have no idea how to get it out of the knuckle without having some threads on the bottom of it. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The taper is free of the a-arm so I can pull that down and see the whole tapered end of the ball joint. I was hoping to avoid pulling the knuckle off so I can avoid having to deal with bleeding the breaklines, but I'm thinking taking the knuckle off, putting it in a vise and hammering out the ball joint may be the only solution. Hopefully the collective will (as usual) be smarter than I am. Tom

My 05 NA Forester started bucking at acceleration a couple days ago and we discovered that it was down about a quart of oil. Today it threw a CEL which read as a misfire on cylinder 3. I went to pull the spark plugs as soon as I got home and discovered oil on the boots of all four. I'm hoping that it's just valve cover and spark plug gaskets, but it's too late and dark to do a compression check at this point. I need to get to work tomorrow, what is the likelyhood that it's safe to drive it for a few days until I can replace the valve covers? Thanks Tom

I've never seen the sender unit in the bottom picture, the top one looks like the one that's on the ea81 in my brat. Regarding the gauge reading, I remember reading someone else's thread where they talked about taking the gauge cluster apart and adjusting the gauge so that it read correctly. I thought it was Jeszek: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?tab=visitor_messaging&u=17344&page=1#visitor_messaging but I'm not seeing it on his visitor messages as a writeup. I would do some searching. It may or may not pertain to you if it was an ea82 gauge cluster, but it's something to look at. Tom

Hey everyone I thought other people who have put empi axles on their ea81s might be interested in this. I need to reboot mine due to failed engine mounts and couldn't seem to find the part numbers in their catalog for their own axles rather than the stock axles. Sent them an email: Thank you for your email and inquiry. The replacement CV Boot Kit part #’s for axle # 80-5515 are as follows: · Outboard = 86-1028-D · Inboard = 86-1159-D I just need to redo the inner boots but I'll report back once I get them as to whether they were right or not.

Thanks guys, that's what I thought there was. GD did the trans mounts for me back around February so they should be okay, but the front mounts are destroyed. I just rebuilt my pitch stop rod and the rubber bushing in there seems totally fine, but thanks for the reminder.

Can somebody please confirm for me how many engine mounts there are on am ea81? It seems like there are just the two on the crossmember, but rockauto lists a rear mount as well. Where is that one? I don't really want to pay shipping twice. Thanks Tom

I don't know, someone else should weigh in, but the loyales are switched ground also, right? So the relay should actually be controlling whether or not there is a path from the horn to chassis ground and the horn will always have a connection to the battery(with a fuse.) The horns are probably getting power from the headlamps (which sound like they are set up switched ground) and you are also giving the horns a path to ground because you wired them "normally" ie with switched + and constant ground. Read the rest of Loyale 2.7 Turbo's post about swapping out the old relays with bosch style if you don't understand the difference between switched ground and switched positive. like this: I drew it in series but it probably doesn't matter either way, one horn might be slightly quieter the way I drew it... probably just keep it wired parallel. Tom

I just saw the thread, and I'm working crazy hours right now but I'd be down to hang out and work on my brat sometime. I have a grey '85 brat and live out by evergreen right now, ill be moving to Boston harbor later this year though.

Sheared about 1.5 inches off the pitch stop rod on my 85 brat about a week ago while trying to tighten it a little. Finally had time to fabricate a new one. Cut the metal ring with bushingoff the old rod, welded it onto a piece of 1/2" rod, welded that to the longest 12 x 1.75mm bolt I could find, then welded a piece of 1/2" id pipe over the joint. The welds aren't very good, the mig welder wasn't letting gas through for some reason, but its working so far.

Any lights flickering or anything?. The ticking could be the contacts in a relay opening and closing. I'm sure there are other, worse possibilities but I don't know what they are. If you are sure that its inside the dash and not in the engine bay (ie not the starter motor or something) I would try pulling the relays that are below the steering wheel one at a time and see if it stops. I know there are two for headlights and I think a couple others.