whistler

I realized that I had confused my diagnosis and it looks like its actually the wheel hub after I already ordered and received two new empi axles, but that's probably not a bad thing since I've been driving it with torn outer axle boots. I've got a few leads on a wheel hub but in the meantime I got the axles and they don't appear to be exactly the same. One has a darker colored cup on the transmission end with numbers stamped or cut into it, the other is lighter colored. Otherwise they do seem to be the same, the part numbers on the boxes are the same and the dimensions look the same, I didn't count the number of splines or anything yet. I'm wondering if I need to be worried?

You should be able test the alternator by measuring across the battery terminals with a multimeter (fairly cheap at radioshack or you can get a better one from an electronics supplier.) When the engine is running the terminals should read 13-14v. Or you usually get a place like sears parts or another place that sells batteries to test it for you for free. I had to replace the alternator in my forester a few years ago when the battery kept dying. If it is the alternator do some research on here, there may be a swap from another car that will be an upgrade to support future accessories if you want to add more lights or whatever.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1267747,parttype,2288 Is that the right EMPI part? If I buy two I can replace both sides correct, they're interchangeable? Both have torn boots and since one has failed I don't know that I want to chance the other failing on me even if I rebooted it...

The driver's axle is rotating so I guess it's the axle then . How do I go about figuring out which axle I need and ordering it from EMPI. I was looking a month or so ago and couldn't figure out how to order from them... it looks like they're wholesale only. Do you just order from rockauto or something?

Also possibly an aftermarket t-stat? I believe that's a part that people still recommend getting from the dealer? I know there's at least 3 different temperature options that are listed by parts stores for my '85 and two of them open earlier than OE. My brat is a lot warmer with the correct temperature t-stat in it.

Thanks GD, I was trying not to bug you. I'll give it a try after work tonight.

So Tuesday I heard what sounded like some small stuff falling off the bottom of my car, went to pull over and didn't have any power to the wheels. I initially thought/hoped that it might just be the shift linkage so I got it towed home. Today I discovered that it actually has power in 4hi which means it's probably something to do with one or both of the front axles right? or it could also.be the hubs? Are there other possibilities? Do I have to pull the axles to diagnose? Or is there a way to tell just by looking? I live in an apartment and I'm just working out in the parking lot so I don't really want to leave it up on stands for multiple days once I pull stuff apart while I wait for parts. Thanks Tom

got a standard hatch cabin light installed in my '85 brat. GD gave me the idea, it's a perfect fit to replace the weird spotlight deally and WAY brighter. Doesn't sit high like I guess the EA82 lights do. I got the last one the dealer had in the country... but they might be able to get more.

Miles was right, I parked it on a handy hill right by the parts store and ending up pouring a good 1/2-2/3 of a gallon of coolant into the poor thing. The gauge sat at the second line (not quite half way) all the way home. Now I just have to figure out where it lost all that coolant from....:-\

Alright I'll try burping it, the thermostat was open (maybe just from high air temperature) when I pulled it. So it was functioning. But there was white crust underneath the thermostat cover, like possibly coolant was leaking there.

Yes, but only when it idles for a few minutes, not constantly as I would expect if the thermoswitch was working correctly AND the engine was overheating.

Hi I've been driving my Brat more or less daily without any major issues since I bought it in August. A few days ago I drove it to work and when I started home that night the temperature gauge shot up to just under the red area. I did some reading, looked at HTKYSA a bit and decided that maybe it was the thermostat so I went to the dealer and ordered a new one but it won't be here for two weeks, so I went to an auto parts store so I would have a cheapie one to swap in, in the mean time (the brat's my daily.) Pulled the old thermostat (it was wide open... hmm) put in the new one. By the time I was done sealing everything up again the old t-stat was closed, so obviously it's working fine. Started it up and after about 10min of idling the temp gauge was back within about 1/8" of the red area. Felt the inlet/outlet hoses on the rad, inlet was noticeably warmer to the touch, roughly what I would expect (ie can't hold on to it for more than a few seconds) outlet was pretty cool. So I'm wondering if it isn't just the temp sending unit but I can't figure out how to test that. There's no play in the water pump, the hoses to the firewall for the heater core aren't leaking although they need replacing as they're pretty banged up. It seems to be leaking a little bit of coolant on the passenger side, but I can't figure out where it's coming from. I need to put it up on stands so I can take a better look at it, but the rainy season is here so it's miserable to work on it. I made sure the radiator had coolant up to the little fill-plate thing. HTKYSA mentions using an engine thermometer in the radiator, but I can't seem to find anywhere to buy one. Thoughts/help? Thanks

Well, I pulled the spark plugs and confirmed that they are sparking. Then I played with it a little longer. I'm not sure if the can of sea foam I ran through it unstuck something or partially unblocked something but there is a small change when 2 and 4 are disconnected and a moderate change when both are disconnected. Having both disconnected seems to be about as bad as having either 1 or 3 disconnected. I spent some more time spraying carb cleaner around vacuum lines and replaced two more bits of tubing. Then I ran out of daylight. I'm still not sure why cylinders 2 and 4 don't seem to be firing nearly as strong as 1 and 3. But I am pretty sure that they're firing, whether they were before or not. Nothing particularly conclusive, since it seemed rather unlikely that they were completely non-functional. If anyone has more thoughts I'd appreciate it. I haven't replaced the engine bay "fuel filter" (and it looks somewhat dirty) because the only filters I've been able to find don't have the third port. So i'll try to track down one of those soon, maybe fuel flow still isn't great. Tom

Thanks friends for all your help, I'm taking it down to GD' place this weekend so he can take a look at it for me. I'm sure he'll get it sorted one way or another.

Roopair says it would be about $2500 if it is a headgasket, and they usually recommend the clutch since everythings apart already which would be another $400 so $2900. Plus tax. Does this seem reasonable? I was hoping for more like 1500-2000... but maybe that's a pipe dream.

Well it's an EA81, so it's a pushrod engine and there aren't any timing belts. And it's the passenger side cylinders that seem to be working correctly and the drivers side that seem to not be working. But it actually runs pretty decently, especially now that I have the ignition timing set correctly (t's at about 8.5-9*.) I'm kind've leaning towards the valves being stuck closed idea... because of the relative levels of crud in the valve covers that I mentioned. But I didn't really think that a 4cyl engine would run in a functional way on only two cylinders... and it's definitely functional, I don't have any problem driving 65-75 on the freeway. It just smells like unburnt gasoline (not as bad as when the timing was WAY retarded, but it still smells like it's running rich) and there's no discernible change in idle sound when I disconnect the plug wires for cylinders 2 and 4.:-\

the plug wires are brand new, but I suppose that doesn't necessarily rule out that two of the wires are bad, on the same side I'll check it before I go out tonight. It's carbureted. Stock hitachi carb, I haven't been able to find any vacuum leaks, but I haven't replaced all of the vacuum hose yet either. I also need to clean some of the electrical grounds in the engine bay, but I wouldn't think that a grounding issue would only effect two cylinders... thanks for your help

bought an 85 brat two weeks ago replaced some coolant and vacuum hoses, fuel filter, distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, bought an oil cap, replaced a leaky radiator cap, adjusted the valves and replaced valve cover gaskets. Had to learn to set the ignition timing from scratch after brainlessly removing the distributor to get at a hose that needed replacing without marking the distributor position. Primed one of the new fenders that the Brat needs (it needs both fenders replaced and eventually two new bumpers... probably just weld some stuff up.) Generally learning about my new toy. Then I found out that my '05 forester probably has blown headgaskets. AW Fuuuuu.... We live in an apartment and the forester is my girlfriend's DD 40+ miles a day so I can't have it strewn across our living room for weeks while I learn how to rebuild an engine. Yay credit!

when I disconnect the spark plug wire there's a spark jumping from the disty cap to the wire. How/what/where else should I check? Thanks

Hi I noticed a few days ago that there was no change in the idle sound when I disconnected the spark plugs wires at the distributor to cylinders 2 and 4. I had the day off and I've been meaning to check the valve adjustments and replace the spark plugs, so I did both of those hoping that the spark plugs were fouled or something (they weren't, all four old plugs were pretty clean, slightly grey/brown) but disconnecting the plug wires to cylinders 2 and 4 still doesn't change the sound of the idle so I did a compression test on the cylinders. I only ran it once since I was a little worried about running down the battery, but the test came out good. approx 160 on 1 and 3 and 155 on 2 and 4. So I think that probably means that the cylinders/pistons/gaskets aren't catastrophically screwed. When I did the valve adjustment today I cleaned up both of the valve covers and replaced the gaskets and the drivers side cover was noticeably more crusty and dirty inside (I cleaned both covers out pretty well before replacing them) so I'm wondering if maybe the valves are stuck... open I guess? which might also explain the occasional slight backfires I get when I let off the gas from high throttle... but then the compression test should've been crap right? I just don't have enough experience to diagnose yet. Thanks for your thoughts Tom

Thanks Fairtax4me, even if you don't make me too hopeful... I did some quick googling and found roopair specialties in Tacoma which isn't too far. Anyone have any feedback on them? Can I trust Firestone or some other chain to do the pressure test properly?

Hi, I have an '05 forester 2.5X MT that's my girlfriend's daily driver. It's been bleeding coolant lately, but isn't leaving any puddles or anything like that and it also doesn't appear to be putting out lots of water through the exhaust (which I think would be a "normal" symptom if it was a HG problem?) We live in an apartment right now so it's a big hassle for me to do oil changes so when she took it to firestone for an oil change today they wanted to do a coolant system pressure test for $30. (because the coolant reservoir was empty need to get on her about checking fluids again.) Are there some things I should/could check first re: the disappearing coolant or is the pressure test a decent place to start and is $30 a reasonable price to do it? Also, can anyone recommend a good mechanic for working on Subarus in Olympia, WA? or at least close by. I've got an '85 brat that's my new toy/DD (I don't need to drive much so if it's down for a day while I research stuff it's usually not the end of the world unlike the forester for my girlfriend.) that I'm happy wrenching on, but I'd like to have a good, reputable place that actually works on Subarus regularly to take the forester for second opinions/work that really needs a garage. Thanks Tom

^^^^^^ haven't tried it, but it makes sense. Basically you're modifying the link so that it doesn't automatically download the image when you click on it. When you view an image on fb you there is a link that says download. (On a windows-based computer, macs would be ctrl+click probably? don't feel like starting the virtual machine to find out) right-click and "copy link location" or similar. Then paste and remove the ?dl=1 at the end of the link. Back OT, no new surprises, although I need to take a picture of all the wires inside my engine bay so someone can tell me if that's normal....

no, that's great, thanks! It's an open forum after all.

I looked in the copy of the '83 FSM that I have and it says you have to remove the cowl cover to change the fender. Then it says you have to remove the wiper arms to take off the cowl. So no on the hood, yes on the cowl cover according to that. Any suggestions on how to do it without removing the wiper arms bheinen?