bonvo

well today i took out my lower motor to see why i havnt had flow threw the heater box in the 1.5 years ive owned this thing well today i found this and this so i got out the gloves and a shop vac and got this as a result and then apoxied the hamster wheel back together and we decided that the old drunk guy i bought this thing from is a very sneaky man the car had wiring for a breatholizer when i got it and i found this wedged in the heater controls looks like he was using one of thoses spare tire air compressors to get past the breatholizer

if your stock struts are the originals they should be oil filled and rebuildable you can even adjust the dapening by using different shock oil go to a offorad shop and you can get shock oil in different weights that way you keep your stokers with height adjustment if you have it and have a basicly new strut

yes

im willing to bet the sound is piston slap or a possible broken skirt you could upload a video to youtube so we can hear it

ok i have this pushbar i am liking the look of this one more and i can attach more lights to it anyone want to trade?

guess what i found pm me and we can get this thing to you

if i have it its as good as yours

i might have a spare one kicking around the garage ill check tomorrow

bout to say it came on the car so i have no idea though i wouldnt mind getting a new one thanks for the link

i can see that but if he is already going threw the trouble of upgrading the engine why not do all the upgrades that come with it at once? why switch out the alternator to just switch it back?

converting to internally regulated isnt that difficult depending on the alternator not to mention is a much more reliable system why convert to a newer engine then leave the charging system from the past? doesnt make any sense to the original poster have you considered taking the engine you have out and seeing what you have to work with? it could just need a set of bearing or it could be totaly trashed but until you take it apart you dont know i rebuilt my ea71 in the garage for about $240 that included buying a hone for the job at 50 bucks and a full tune up if i were in your position i would start by pulling your current engine and taking it apart to see what you have then make a choice from there taking it out and apart is free after all just remember you need to seperate the pistons from the connecting rods before you try to split the engine this is where i got my parts i only needed to get the "re ring kit" you may need to step it up to the "standard engine kit" depending on how far out of whack your internal specs are http://www.cleggengine.com/engine-rebuild-kits/subaru-h-4-98-1-6l-engine-rebuild-kits-1976-1981.html

mine were screws and they came right out i think im going to remove the stock trim and replace it with the adhesive black stuff well ever since i had the car the door has caught on the fender i started with this now im no body guy but its alot better then it was before over all it looks alot better and the whole car isnt perfect so i wasnt to worried about making it a perfect fender again especially with the rust it has but underneath it looked good no real rust to be seen even around the hood hinges which always rot out of these things

crap thats what i was afraid of im talking about the rubber strips i may take the one off the drivers door and try to straighten it then either that or buy new adheasive trim and replace whats there datsun did similar on the b210 and 710 and i dont understand why the factory put freaking holes in the doors and body panels to hold these stupid pieces on

it wasnt to hard man i got some turtle wax polishing compound and just went over the whole care lightly then followed with with a good waxing with an orbital buffer this is the first time ive washed it since then as well and it still looks good just want to keep the original paint as nice as possible since its still in decent shape main reason for doing all this detail work is i have a date and i want it to look as good as it possibly can XD

does anywone know if the shopping cart strips are held on with adheasive or bolts? i want to remove it as its falling off in a few areas but i dont just want to grab and pull either

anyway gave her a bath today next nice day ill wax it with the buffer

thanks for sending that to me stole my avatar from one of the pages lol

im going off of what my A.S.E. master tech father has told me he has 30 years in the business so needless to say i trust him and he has taught me alot but since this is my first engine over haul im relying on his info basiclly just drive it but very your rpms so that that it gets use in the whole rpm range

the o ring that came with the rebuild set to seal the oil pump was to thick so the tolerances inside the pump were wrong thus pumping lower pressure

right on thanks for the pic man i got the oil pressure issue squared away and now im just driving it to finish the break in

looking at that thread i think that the new o ring that the rebuild kit came with is to thick and the clearances aren't right

as for oil im running castrol gtx 10-30w same oil ive run in every vehicle i own but im thinking about stepping it up to 10-40w thanks for the link ill read threw the thread but i would much rather fix what i got instead of buying a new one

both say that parts in the pump are sticking we had the no oil pressure at start up took the pump apart found what was sticking and fixed that issue it has oil pressure at start up and it has oil pressure off idle the light only comes on at idle when the engine is hot im still considering pulling the oil pump off yet again and go threw it all again

dont see or here anything aside from the idiot light on the dash it sounds fine and there are no leaks when its cold its not an issue as it gets warm and the thermostat opens it flickers then as after it gets to the optimum operating temp it stays on the second its off idle light turns off